Brake bleeder kit
- Thread starter emory
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I've been looking at the ones made by Motive Products. I need to purge the fluid in my wife's car (Mitsu Lancer) as well as my Mustang GT.
The Motive Products ones do seem to be a bit spendy and if you search around, some people love them and some people can't get them to work right.
It's why I haven't pulled the trigger yet myself...
thanks,
ben
The Motive Products ones do seem to be a bit spendy and if you search around, some people love them and some people can't get them to work right.
It's why I haven't pulled the trigger yet myself...
thanks,
ben
you may want to look into speed bleeders, rather then the one man kit ..google it
I have been looking for these, and it turns out my local auto parts stores regularly stock them. Check the websites for Advance, O'Reilly and Autozone. All three in my area carry them. I don't know your application, but they may have them.
I purchased a Motive Products Power Bleeder and it works perfectly. I've used it on my 2004 Mach1, 2005 F250 Powerstroke 4X4 and 2005 Subaru Legacy GT. For once, I got lucky - the Ford three prong adapter fits my Subaru perfectly.
the Power Bleeder is exceptionally easy to use:
If you buy one with multiple adapters, use teflon tape on the hose fitting when attaching the master cylinder adapter.
Remove your master cylinder cap and replace it with the Power Bleeder attachment.
Pressurize the Power Bleeder to 15 psi to check for leaks.
Relieve pressure by slowly unscrewing the pump handle on the reseviour, NOT BY REMOVING THE MASTER CYLINDER ADAPTER.
Fill the Power Bleeder with brake fluid and pressurize to about 15 psi.
Attach a clear plastic tube to the bleeder screw and loosen SLIGHTLY. (It had been about 20 years since I last replaced my own brake fuild, so I made the mistake of unscfrewing the bleeder 1/2 turn. The bleeder screw was loose enough to allow air into the drain tube. The air wasn't comming from inside my brake lines, but I thought so for a while!)
Let the old fluid drain out and close the bleeder.
Repeat for other 3 calipers.
After bleeding each caliper, pump more pressre into the Power Bleeder and monitor the level of new brake fluid in the Power Bleeder. The only real problem you can cause is letting your master cylinder run dry. I keep track of how much fluid I put in the Power Bleeder and how much I drain. When I drain 3/4 of what I put in the Power Bleeder, I add more fluid.
When done, depressurize by slowing unscrewing the pump handle from the Power Bleeder, then removing the master cylinder cap adapter.
In my opinion, the Power Bleeder is the quickest and easiest way to bleed your brakes. Just make sure you unscrew your bleed screws about a 1/4 of a turn to avoid "false" air bubbles in your drain tube. (This goes for any bleeding method).
the Power Bleeder is exceptionally easy to use:
If you buy one with multiple adapters, use teflon tape on the hose fitting when attaching the master cylinder adapter.
Remove your master cylinder cap and replace it with the Power Bleeder attachment.
Pressurize the Power Bleeder to 15 psi to check for leaks.
Relieve pressure by slowly unscrewing the pump handle on the reseviour, NOT BY REMOVING THE MASTER CYLINDER ADAPTER.
Fill the Power Bleeder with brake fluid and pressurize to about 15 psi.
Attach a clear plastic tube to the bleeder screw and loosen SLIGHTLY. (It had been about 20 years since I last replaced my own brake fuild, so I made the mistake of unscfrewing the bleeder 1/2 turn. The bleeder screw was loose enough to allow air into the drain tube. The air wasn't comming from inside my brake lines, but I thought so for a while!)
Let the old fluid drain out and close the bleeder.
Repeat for other 3 calipers.
After bleeding each caliper, pump more pressre into the Power Bleeder and monitor the level of new brake fluid in the Power Bleeder. The only real problem you can cause is letting your master cylinder run dry. I keep track of how much fluid I put in the Power Bleeder and how much I drain. When I drain 3/4 of what I put in the Power Bleeder, I add more fluid.
When done, depressurize by slowing unscrewing the pump handle from the Power Bleeder, then removing the master cylinder cap adapter.
In my opinion, the Power Bleeder is the quickest and easiest way to bleed your brakes. Just make sure you unscrew your bleed screws about a 1/4 of a turn to avoid "false" air bubbles in your drain tube. (This goes for any bleeding method).
I love my SpeedBleeders. Have them in my Mustang GT, had them in my Ranger, and they work well. Very easy. Problem is I now need a set for my wife's Lancer and SpeedBleeder doesn't have a listing for the Lancer. They don't return my inquiries for a listing either...
If you can get them, go with them. They are simple and easy...
thanks,
ben
If you haven't wanted to do it because of price, you can build your own with a Home Depot sprayer for around $15. You just need a few tire valve-stems, some hose, and a junkyard brake reservoir cap. I also used an old tire gauge I had lying around.
I have been generally pleased with the Motive unit. I did have a problem getting the universal cap to seal well the first time I used it, but when the custom caps fit (like the three prong) its very easy to use.
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