bleeding brakes for the first time.

[Ken2]

Quote:
cracked bleeder on rear left (furstes from master cyl) had gf press on brake untill fluid stoped flowing. closed bleeder. released brakes. opened and pressed again. and repeated this process untill I started getting cear fluid. But I could still hear a squirting sound as if air was in the system and the brakes werent firming up

You missed a couple of steps.
--Put a smear of grease around the threads of the bleed nipple so it doesn't suck air around the threads.
--Put a plastic tube or hose tightly over the bleed nipple and lead it to a bottle with some fluid in it. Keep the end of the tube under the fluid level so it cannot suck air back up the tube.

Otherwise what you did, with the caveat about over travel of the brake pedal & master cylinder, are OK.

 

[firefighter]

Originally Posted By: KrisZ
Originally Posted By: firefighter
Never Never Never push the brake pedal down till the fluid stops, that is the fastest way to a new master cylinder. what happens is the cups in the M/C rub over rough spots not in the normal travel and they wear/tear. So then in a week or so you will be at a red light and notice the brake pedal sinking to the floor, or you will not build proper pressure. Cheapest way get 3-4 foot clear hose that fits snug on the bleeders put one end on bleeder other end submerged in a bottle with a little brake fluid, crack the bleeder and have some one pump the brakes, but not any more then about 1/4-1/2 way to the floor, when you see clear fluid close the screw while they are pressing down. Then proceed to next bleeder and so on. Just make sure the M/C stays full.


Unless you're talking about severly neglected system, it's a non issue, otherwise you would have a damaged master cylinder pretty much every time you change brake pads, since the brake pedal always goes to the floor for the first few pumps, but we all know that's not happening. The theory is there, but practice suggests very slim chances of this happening.


KrisZ
I don't go to the floor on pad changes, just halfway it just takes a little longer. At work I have no way of knowing the history of the system unless they are a regular customer. So it is an issue, I just make that my standard practice. If it is your vehicle and you know the history by all means push the pedal to the floor, But anytime you go out of the normal operating paramaters you are asking for potential problems. I would rather play it safe then having a customer need a M/C

 

[DARKSCOPE001]

ok guys well I used up most of the brake fluid and I doubt i can convice her dad to buy more so at least I got my hands dirty and now I know a little more about bleeding brakes. It seems here that most people seem to be a big fan of pressure bleeding. Now this raises a new question, as I stated before my car has never had its fluid changed and it needs new pads and rotors. So I figure why not go ahead and flush the system? Now being a tinkerer and a cheep skate DIY I looked at the pressure bleeders and noticed a lot of similarities to them and a plant sprayer. So I found an article on how to make your own. http://faculty.ccp.edu/faculty/dreed/Campingart/jettatech/bleeder/index.htm So since I work retail I work in retail yesterday when I went into work I scouted around and put togeather a price list. I came up roughly in my head everything ending up around 20 bucks just as the article stated. Now granted this is a DIY brake bleeder made from a plant sprayer. So what do you guys think? perhaps if I can get this thing built for a low ammount of money I will try again to bleed his brake system. thanks for all your input guys

THANKS
Sean Scott

 

[bigmike]

Originally Posted By: mechtech2
Submerging a hose in fluid in a can is a technique often repeated.

I see no reason why. Who cares how the old stuff dumps?

Also, to bleed by submerging a line and simply pumping the brakes is useless - you will go back in and out.



It's just in case any fluid actually gets sucked back in by improperly timing the tightening of the bleeder screw. Additionally, someone can view the air bubbles through the glass cup/jar as well as the color of fluid as to know when to stop bleeding/flushing the line. When the bubbles and fluid are clean, you can move on to the next bleeder.

 

[Rhymingmechanic]

Sean,

I would suggest buying a quart of brake fluid and bleeding the van properly, even if the owner is too cheap to spring for the fluid.
Then use what's left over in your car.

If you can get your girlfriend to help bleed brakes, that's simpler than building a bleeder. It doesn't satisfy the urge to build a gadget, though. I put Speed Bleeders on one vehicle so I can flush it myself. They cost about $10 per pair.

Good Luck

 

[DARKSCOPE001]

hahah you know me to well. i am a tinkerer and i love building gadgets and tools and stuff. btw? speed bleeders do they make the bleeding process any easyerr? because a pair of speed bleeders for a car is cheeper than a pressure bleeder. I just want to know a a good easy and cheep way to get a satisfactory bleed on my brakes.

THANKS
Sean Scott

 

[unDummy]

I use and recommend speedbleeders if you plan on keeping the car for a long time, or if need to bleed regularly.

Problem is, you buy them and they are for that '1' car only.
Motive or Mityvac can be used on many.

Also, some poorly cut threads on wheel cylinders/calipers allow air to leak back in, even though the checkball of the speedbleeder is closed.

I've been moving away from speedbleeders since the brake component manufacturing has gone downhill. I haven't installed a set in a long time.

 

[mechtech2]

Because of air in the bleed lines, you can see air and bubbles even if the fluid in the system has none.
With this air, you can also suck it back in the system even if the end is submerged in fluid.

My two man bleeding technique relies on the other person. They often help you out, and mess things up.
"I thought you said up!" [ or "down"]. How this can be confused is beyond me, but this is often the case.

With a person you trust, [meaning they have to take orders like a seaman in a German submarine in WWII] say "DOWN" and then open the bleeder. While it is still coming out, close the bleeder. THEN say up. Repeat as needed.

 

[ARB1977]

Ive got a Motive bleeder for the Jetta and a universal adapter for the Tacoma. Very easy to do...first time doing it as well.

 

[bigmike]

Originally Posted By: mechtech2

My two man bleeding technique relies on the other person. They often help you out, and mess things up.
"I thought you said up!" [ or "down"]. How this can be confused is beyond me, but this is often the case.


Removal of beer before bleeding is a good idea to avoid complications. That's about the only advice I have.

Originally Posted By: mechtech2

With a person you trust, [meaning they have to take orders like a seaman in a German submarine in WWII] say "DOWN" and then open the bleeder. While it is still coming out, close the bleeder. THEN say up. Repeat as needed.

 

[DARKSCOPE001]

well guys I headded over today to work on the van again and try bleeding the brakes. I left it with the brake fluid res pretty full. came back today with my bleeder wrench (witch btw does can anyone tell me why ford would use two different sizes front to back? the backs are a 10mm but the fronts different the bolt is bigger than a 10 but my 11 slips off what gives? is it sae and the 10 just works fine for the back? or what?) anyways came back today res is empty. put remaining fluid in the res. and did the pump and bleed (correctly this time) on the back calipers and NOTHING! so idk what to tell this guy. unfortuanly this van is parked out on gravel so its kinda hard to see if its dripping anything. I might take a few drip pans over next time but im kinda giving up. At least for now I have my own problems to worry about and I think this is going to require someone who knows a little more about cars than I do.

THANKS GUYS
Sean Scott

P.S. any further input is allways welcome

 

[mechtech2]

You may have 3/8" bleeders. Maybe someone replaced parts with rebuilds?
It is best to loosen them initially with 6 point or 6 point flank drive sockets.
You can lightly tighten/loosen them with a box end while you bleed.