Walmart is pretty long drive (45 minutes or so one way) - I don't have the time for that. I certainly wouldn't buy conventional at Shuck's if I was a regular user.
Bought a 1990 Honda Accord
- Thread starter Pablo
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Glad to hear you're taking the MMO route. Be sure to keep us apprised of the situation as the treatment progresses.
Originally Posted By: Pablo
Walmart is pretty long drive (45 minutes or so one way) - I don't have the time for that. I certainly wouldn't buy conventional at Shuck's if I was a regular user.
I guess that would be penny wise pound foolish. I'm just used to having a WM within <10 miles of wherever I am and assumed that they have established their stores everywhere.
Walmart is pretty long drive (45 minutes or so one way) - I don't have the time for that. I certainly wouldn't buy conventional at Shuck's if I was a regular user.
I guess that would be penny wise pound foolish. I'm just used to having a WM within <10 miles of wherever I am and assumed that they have established their stores everywhere.
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Originally Posted By: Pablo
Well it isn't jewel, but I'm workin' on it.
I'll get pics later.
I bought some cheap oil and a Fram OF today!! Well you conventional nuts, are well, a bit nuts. PYB, $3 quart?? No thanks for a rinse oil. Instead I bought 5 qt jug of Shell formulaclean or somesuch - $13.99!! I'm sorry, M1 was more than I pay for Amsoil - way more! (at Shuck's) I'll run the current oil a bit longer, then I'll put this stuff in. Run it for a week, dump the rest of the MMO in, another week. Then put Amsoil AME 15W-40 HDEO 3 qts with a qt of MMO and another filter and run that for a month or so. Finally I'll switch over to Amsoil synthetic for 6 month intervals while watching consumption closely.
I bought her some wiper blades too. At $7.99 and $9.99 (Shuck's) I should have just bought them with my Amsoil account.
That's your punishment for not having a stash and constantly buying cheap/free stuff.
Well it isn't jewel, but I'm workin' on it.
I'll get pics later.
I bought some cheap oil and a Fram OF today!! Well you conventional nuts, are well, a bit nuts. PYB, $3 quart?? No thanks for a rinse oil. Instead I bought 5 qt jug of Shell formulaclean or somesuch - $13.99!! I'm sorry, M1 was more than I pay for Amsoil - way more! (at Shuck's) I'll run the current oil a bit longer, then I'll put this stuff in. Run it for a week, dump the rest of the MMO in, another week. Then put Amsoil AME 15W-40 HDEO 3 qts with a qt of MMO and another filter and run that for a month or so. Finally I'll switch over to Amsoil synthetic for 6 month intervals while watching consumption closely.
I bought her some wiper blades too. At $7.99 and $9.99 (Shuck's) I should have just bought them with my Amsoil account.
That's your punishment for not having a stash and constantly buying cheap/free stuff.
Originally Posted By: PandaBear
Originally Posted By: Pablo
I bought her some wiper blades too. At $7.99 and $9.99 (Shuck's) I should have just bought them with my Amsoil account.
That's your punishment for not having a stash and constantly buying cheap/free stuff.
I've grabbed some nice looking blades from the trash can out front of the parts store...
Originally Posted By: Pablo
I bought her some wiper blades too. At $7.99 and $9.99 (Shuck's) I should have just bought them with my Amsoil account.
That's your punishment for not having a stash and constantly buying cheap/free stuff.
I've grabbed some nice looking blades from the trash can out front of the parts store...
You guys are worse than me! Used blades? Wow. They fit? Even better!
Put the Fram on and the Shell 5W-30 in. Dang thing had a Filtech on it. I still can't figure out why Honda can't design an engine that isn't so messy to change oil.
Car has been reliable so far. Still cleaning, needed some bulbs replaced, etc.
Car has been reliable so far. Still cleaning, needed some bulbs replaced, etc.
^Yep, I used to have the 94 LX Coupe. Solid car!
I changed the front mount just now. WAY BETTER. And it made diagnosis that much easier. I'm now 99% convinced this:
Originally Posted By: Pablo
3) Has a slight acceleration hesitation when warm, just tiny off idle roughness. Does not do this when cold. (???)
Is AT judder. I will swap fluid soon.
Originally Posted By: Pablo
3) Has a slight acceleration hesitation when warm, just tiny off idle roughness. Does not do this when cold. (???)
Is AT judder. I will swap fluid soon.
Pablo, good forum for that generation of Accord here
http://www.cb7tuner.com/
Somewhere in there (I haven't posted in a while) I put up a post with Honda TSBs for this vehicle, including one for rough idling. You may want to search.
The spark plugs seals are known to dry out leading to oil in the spark plug wells - you may want to pull the wires and have a look down there. The upper seals are easy to replace (easiest valve cover to remove - four bolts holding it down IIRC), the lower ones not so much. I don't know how you feel about Auto-Rx, but it helped the seals in my car stop leaking.
If you find the vehicle doesn't start when hot, but starts again after a short cooling off period, it's the starter relay, located under the dash. Easy fix (replace) but not the cheapest part, or you could try taking it apart and resoldering the broken solder connections which is the usual cause of the relay not working (something to do with the circuit board expanding when hot and breaking the solder.
If you ever have to replace the front rotors, you'll be left cursing some (hopefully long dead) Honda engineer for having the rotors pressed onto the hub (or some weird similar design).
My Mom had a 1991 EX-R ALB. It ran like a champ with 320000 KM on it. I was using it as an Auto-Rx test mule, but sold it before finishing the test. Pics were posted somewhere on BITOG.
If the wheel wells haven't already rusted out, you should pull off the rubber trim around the well. That trim was the cause of a lot of the rust IMO. Dirt and moisture would get in and could never get out.
http://www.cb7tuner.com/
Somewhere in there (I haven't posted in a while) I put up a post with Honda TSBs for this vehicle, including one for rough idling. You may want to search.
The spark plugs seals are known to dry out leading to oil in the spark plug wells - you may want to pull the wires and have a look down there. The upper seals are easy to replace (easiest valve cover to remove - four bolts holding it down IIRC), the lower ones not so much. I don't know how you feel about Auto-Rx, but it helped the seals in my car stop leaking.
If you find the vehicle doesn't start when hot, but starts again after a short cooling off period, it's the starter relay, located under the dash. Easy fix (replace) but not the cheapest part, or you could try taking it apart and resoldering the broken solder connections which is the usual cause of the relay not working (something to do with the circuit board expanding when hot and breaking the solder.
If you ever have to replace the front rotors, you'll be left cursing some (hopefully long dead) Honda engineer for having the rotors pressed onto the hub (or some weird similar design).
My Mom had a 1991 EX-R ALB. It ran like a champ with 320000 KM on it. I was using it as an Auto-Rx test mule, but sold it before finishing the test. Pics were posted somewhere on BITOG.
If the wheel wells haven't already rusted out, you should pull off the rubber trim around the well. That trim was the cause of a lot of the rust IMO. Dirt and moisture would get in and could never get out.
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Originally Posted By: Pablo
I'm now 99% convinced this:
Originally Posted By: Pablo
3) Has a slight acceleration hesitation when warm, just tiny off idle roughness. Does not do this when cold. (???)
Is AT judder. I will swap fluid soon.
Don't rule out EGR cleaning ... the valve opens >1800rpm.
http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/misc/t2t013.pdf
I have a 1993 Accord and it has the same shuddering 1500-1800rpm when warm only. I haven't cleaned the EGR runners but suspecting this may be the problem.
I'm now 99% convinced this:
Originally Posted By: Pablo
3) Has a slight acceleration hesitation when warm, just tiny off idle roughness. Does not do this when cold. (???)
Is AT judder. I will swap fluid soon.
Don't rule out EGR cleaning ... the valve opens >1800rpm.
http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/misc/t2t013.pdf
I have a 1993 Accord and it has the same shuddering 1500-1800rpm when warm only. I haven't cleaned the EGR runners but suspecting this may be the problem.
Originally Posted By: BrianWC
Originally Posted By: greenaccord02
Pour a tablespoon of seafoam or b12 down each sparkplug hole and then replace the plug. Wait ~30 min. and then start the car. Prepare to be amazed.
B12! Seafoam is not near as strong!
IMHO....
Agreed! B12 is wonderful stuff!
Originally Posted By: greenaccord02
Pour a tablespoon of seafoam or b12 down each sparkplug hole and then replace the plug. Wait ~30 min. and then start the car. Prepare to be amazed.
B12! Seafoam is not near as strong!
IMHO....
Agreed! B12 is wonderful stuff!
Originally Posted By: NJC
Originally Posted By: Pablo
I'm now 99% convinced this:
Originally Posted By: Pablo
3) Has a slight acceleration hesitation when warm, just tiny off idle roughness. Does not do this when cold. (???)
Is AT judder. I will swap fluid soon.
Don't rule out EGR cleaning ... the valve opens >1800rpm.
http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/misc/t2t013.pdf
I have a 1993 Accord and it has the same shuddering 1500-1800rpm when warm only. I haven't cleaned the EGR runners but suspecting this may be the problem.
Wow thanks. This confirms what a Honda tech told me. The car is just sitting right now.
Originally Posted By: Pablo
I'm now 99% convinced this:
Originally Posted By: Pablo
3) Has a slight acceleration hesitation when warm, just tiny off idle roughness. Does not do this when cold. (???)
Is AT judder. I will swap fluid soon.
Don't rule out EGR cleaning ... the valve opens >1800rpm.
http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/misc/t2t013.pdf
I have a 1993 Accord and it has the same shuddering 1500-1800rpm when warm only. I haven't cleaned the EGR runners but suspecting this may be the problem.
Wow thanks. This confirms what a Honda tech told me. The car is just sitting right now.
pablo, I owned a 90 accord lx 4 dr, many year back,
1. EGR - take off and clean, will resolve off the line issues (vibration etc).
2. change plugs to NGK, change spark rotor
3. change fuel filter (if car sat lot)
4. inspect engine mounts
5. check main relay in the cabin, confirm relay has been changed, if not expect starting failure during hot weather.
6. a/c has been retrofitted?
7. rear light burn out faster due to rust (water leakage), put dielectric on rear and front bulbs.
8. inspect mufler and flex tube.
9. drain rad and refill
10. drain tranny and refill
1. EGR - take off and clean, will resolve off the line issues (vibration etc).
2. change plugs to NGK, change spark rotor
3. change fuel filter (if car sat lot)
4. inspect engine mounts
5. check main relay in the cabin, confirm relay has been changed, if not expect starting failure during hot weather.
6. a/c has been retrofitted?
7. rear light burn out faster due to rust (water leakage), put dielectric on rear and front bulbs.
8. inspect mufler and flex tube.
9. drain rad and refill
10. drain tranny and refill
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