I'm doing the boat trailer bearings in the ranger bass boat. This is my first time doing them in several years of owning the boat so they are due. I cleaned, repacked bearings and put everything back together with the damaged seals because I couldn't find any locally. I think I damaged the seals getting them off. I finally got to work on the trailer again today after receiving what I believe to be the right seals. They look exactly the same. I am having trouble getting the pin back in on the castle nut and had to use a smaller diameter cotter pin. In the case of the ranger trailers, they use a straight pin as original equipment, I'm assuming. After getting everything back together, I noticed that the wheels don't spin as freely, possibly because I had to tighten the castle nut a bit more for the cotter pin to fit. It makes about one revolution freely as opposed to several. Another weird thing is that there is a cover that fits over the nut and I couldn't fit it on one side but could on the other. Is this something I should be worried about? Only other thing different is I used a bearing repack tool today and the new grease seals.
Boat trailer wheel bearings
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The bearings are timken L68149 which match up to 1-3/8" x 1-1/16". I got these seals: Championtrailers.com
It's normal to grease the bearings and not have them spin freely because of the new grease. Basically, tighten the nut with a channel lock pliers tight while turning the hub, then back it off about 1/8 turn.
Nick1994
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Take it for a test drive to get the grease moved around, loosen the castle nut and spin the wheel and tighten the nut until there's some drag, then back off slightly.
like was said spin the wheel and tighten nut until it snugs then back off till the cotter goes in. You can feel when the bearing is TIGHT you do not want it TIGHT.
Going forward get some bearing buddy's and never tear it down again. Damage comes to bearings when you dunk a hot wheel hub into the cold water. As it cools it pulls in the water past the seals. Get the stainless ones if you're going in salt water.
Going forward get some bearing buddy's and never tear it down again. Damage comes to bearings when you dunk a hot wheel hub into the cold water. As it cools it pulls in the water past the seals. Get the stainless ones if you're going in salt water.
First you always use new seals if your working on the inner bearing. Always.
Did you wipe old bearings clean and inspect? The little rollers should look like new. No rust or wear marks.
I am trying out a new kind of seal. It comes with a SS sleeve you put on the axle shoulder and a seal that rides on this SS sleeve that should have a better sealing surface than the axle shoulder.
Did you wipe old bearings clean and inspect? The little rollers should look like new. No rust or wear marks.
I am trying out a new kind of seal. It comes with a SS sleeve you put on the axle shoulder and a seal that rides on this SS sleeve that should have a better sealing surface than the axle shoulder.
Others are correct about tightening a castle nut; in the future do not tighten further to fit the cotter pin, instead back off from tight enough to fit the cotter pin.
It's normal for a used cotter pin to be somewhat difficult to re-use, it should be straightened and not be offset; the short and long sides should lay on each other like a new one. Once you get it started it's OK to use a handy tool to tap it in completely.
Because the long side is bent in installation, the pin is normally not completely straight and true after you remove it, so it will require straightening and usually will still be slightly deformed, so that makes it more difficult to re-insert, but as long as it goes in it's OK.
It's normal for a used cotter pin to be somewhat difficult to re-use, it should be straightened and not be offset; the short and long sides should lay on each other like a new one. Once you get it started it's OK to use a handy tool to tap it in completely.
Because the long side is bent in installation, the pin is normally not completely straight and true after you remove it, so it will require straightening and usually will still be slightly deformed, so that makes it more difficult to re-insert, but as long as it goes in it's OK.
Thanks for the help guys but I don't think some of you understand. The regular thick straight pin doesn't fit on the castle nut with the new seal. So I had to downsize to 1/8" cotter pin. The castle nut won't go in enough to clear the hole. Literally the only way to get one of the cotter pins in was to tighten nut all the way, insert cotter pin, back out nut and not use the cover to the castle nut. This does not seem right to me.
Perhaps the new seal isn't seated all the way?
Did you use some kind of tool to drive the seal in evenly and make sure it's seated fully (a socket, for example)?
Did you use some kind of tool to drive the seal in evenly and make sure it's seated fully (a socket, for example)?
Thought that too. I damaged the first seal banging it in. Second one I tapped lighter with more hammering and am sure it's seated. Heard it bottom out and even after that kept banging. Used a race tool.
Sorry, I didn't mention this is with bearing buddies. I thought you still repack bearings even with bearing buddies because the new grease doesn't get to the inner bearings.
What was replaced during this work?
I would not use a socket to press in the seal. Better a 2x4.
I would not use a socket to press in the seal. Better a 2x4.
Are ypu sure that the new seal fits over the axle?
I would use it with the new smaller cotter pin anyways, if no play and free wheels, it's good in my books.
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Originally Posted By: pda1122
Thanks for the help guys but I don't think some of you understand. The regular thick straight pin doesn't fit on the castle nut with the new seal. So I had to downsize to 1/8" cotter pin. The castle nut won't go in enough to clear the hole. Literally the only way to get one of the cotter pins in was to tighten nut all the way, insert cotter pin, back out nut and not use the cover to the castle nut. This does not seem right to me.
The castle nut should only be contacting the bearings, not the seals and new seals shouldn't have any effect on how far the castle nut will thread on to the spindle. From here it sounds like something somehow got put together wrong. I'd take it apart and take a close look at how the bearings went back together.
Thanks for the help guys but I don't think some of you understand. The regular thick straight pin doesn't fit on the castle nut with the new seal. So I had to downsize to 1/8" cotter pin. The castle nut won't go in enough to clear the hole. Literally the only way to get one of the cotter pins in was to tighten nut all the way, insert cotter pin, back out nut and not use the cover to the castle nut. This does not seem right to me.
The castle nut should only be contacting the bearings, not the seals and new seals shouldn't have any effect on how far the castle nut will thread on to the spindle. From here it sounds like something somehow got put together wrong. I'd take it apart and take a close look at how the bearings went back together.
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The castle nut should contact a big washer.
If the OP replaced the bearings and races, then I suspect one of the races is not seated properly.
If the OP replaced the bearings and races, then I suspect one of the races is not seated properly.
Ok guys, I think I know what I did wrong after watching some videos. I used a race tool to seat the grease seal and when I did, I smashed it past being flush with the back of the hub. I'm guessing by doing so it made the diameter of the hole smaller. Does this sound plausible?
Originally Posted By: pda1122
Ok guys, I think I know what I did wrong after watching some videos. I used a race tool to seat the grease seal and when I did, I smashed it past being flush with the back of the hub. I'm guessing by doing so it made the diameter of the hole smaller. Does this sound plausible?
No. While you want the metal part of the seal flush, not sure pushing it in too far would cause the issue your having. Pushing it in too far might have the seal touching the inner bearing which you do not want.
Were the bearings and race replaced?
Ok guys, I think I know what I did wrong after watching some videos. I used a race tool to seat the grease seal and when I did, I smashed it past being flush with the back of the hub. I'm guessing by doing so it made the diameter of the hole smaller. Does this sound plausible?
No. While you want the metal part of the seal flush, not sure pushing it in too far would cause the issue your having. Pushing it in too far might have the seal touching the inner bearing which you do not want.
Were the bearings and race replaced?
4wd
$50 site donor 2026
After 5 years - I just go buy complete (rust free) hub assembly for $30 each - and then put one old one in my truck and keep one in my shop ... so easy that way ...
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