BMW - Synthetic Vs Dino for short OCI

[jfatula98]

Thank you to all who have responded, I enjoy learning from all of your opinions.

I have decided to go with synthetic oil, even though it will likely be recycled before it has reached the end of it's useful life. I've made this decision based on two factors; (a) should I not be able to change the oil in a short time frame, I'll have the cushion to keep going without feeling like I'm gambling with my engine, and (b) service records seem to make a difference in the value of this brand even at this age, and receipts showing maintenance that follows the manufacturers recommendation could make or break a sale.

If this were a vehicle that I was planning on running until the wheels fall off, I would not be uncomfortable using the PYB at 5k intervals, and it doesn't seem like anyone else would either, beyond "that's not what the factory recommends."

 

[Branson304]

Personally, in a BMW, I would use a synthetic that meets the oil specs for your car.

 

[lubricatosaurus]

Originally Posted By: jfatula98
Thank you to all who have responded, I enjoy learning from all of your opinions.

I have decided to go with synthetic oil, even though it will likely be recycled before it has reached the end of it's useful life. I've made this decision based on two factors; (a) should I not be able to change the oil in a short time frame, I'll have the cushion to keep going without feeling like I'm gambling with my engine, and (b) service records seem to make a difference in the value of this brand even at this age, and receipts showing maintenance that follows the manufacturers recommendation could make or break a sale.

If this were a vehicle that I was planning on running until the wheels fall off, I would not be uncomfortable using the PYB at 5k intervals, and it doesn't seem like anyone else would either, beyond "that's not what the factory recommends."



Very logical thinking. I think most agree you "could" run the lower performing oils for those short intervals. I do think using synthetics means you will still have less deposits and wear, even on those short intervals, since all oils degrade from the 1st mile driven, and synthetics just degrade less for each and every mile. ........ In other words, synthetics give you higher performance from day one to the day you change it, regardless if you change it early or late.

 

[OVERKILL]

Originally Posted By: jfatula98
Thank you to all who have responded, I enjoy learning from all of your opinions.

I have decided to go with synthetic oil, even though it will likely be recycled before it has reached the end of it's useful life. I've made this decision based on two factors; (a) should I not be able to change the oil in a short time frame, I'll have the cushion to keep going without feeling like I'm gambling with my engine, and (b) service records seem to make a difference in the value of this brand even at this age, and receipts showing maintenance that follows the manufacturers recommendation could make or break a sale.

If this were a vehicle that I was planning on running until the wheels fall off, I would not be uncomfortable using the PYB at 5k intervals, and it doesn't seem like anyone else would either, beyond "that's not what the factory recommends."



Good. Use an approved lubricant at a sane interval. That is, use an oil that meets LL-01, which your vehicle requires. There are many oils on the market with this approval in 0w-30, 0w-40 and 5w-40 grades (and also the BMW 5w-30). These oils all have an HTHS >=3.5cP, which is part of the spec.

 

[KenO]

You'll have no problem with dino oils. Keep the OCI to a reasonable rate and you'll be fine. It's an X5, not a track car. The M54b30's burn oil anyways due to low tension rings, so a bit thicker dino in a warm climate will help with that a bit. Still recommend making sure it gets a good long drive every so often, and run her to redline when you do. Otherwise - just drive it and keep fresh fluids in it.


IF you're going to use a syn - avoid the generic US syns like M1 5W-40 etc. Stick to either BMW LL-01, or A3/B4 Euro synthetics.

 

[OVERKILL]

Originally Posted By: KenO

IF you're going to use a syn - avoid the generic US syns like M1 5W-40 etc. Stick to either BMW LL-01, or A3/B4 Euro synthetics.


Generic M1 5w-40? The only two M1 5w-40's are the TDT, which is an HDEO, and the ESP 5w-40, which is an MB-spec oil. Hardly generic

However I agree (and mentioned above) that an LL-01 is the best choice.

 

[Thebimmerfan]

Don't want to sound as a cliche, but for the prise Mobil 1 0W-40 has in most places it really has no logic to put dyno, at least I wouldn't. If you find Castrol 0W-40 on sale it would be great also. If where you live you've got a good deal on Motul X-Cess 5W-40 it works nice in those BMWs either.

 

[Falcon_LS]

When you can get M1 0W-40 for next to nothing, why bother with conventional? Especially in a European application, requiring far stricter standards than a conventional can meet.

 

[SR5]

OverKill made a good point. BMW LL01 and ACEA A3/B4 oils have a high standard to meet, including a HTHS of 3.5 or more.

A SN mineral oil does not have to meet the same standards, and may have a lower HTHS value (depending on which Dino oil is selected). Changing this mineral oil early will not increase it's HTHS value. In certain applications it may not have enough film strength to protect your engine correctly. I see a certain risk involved, that changing your oil early does not mitigate.

If I was forced to run a mineral oil in this application, then I would use a 15W-40 HDEO like Rotella, Delvac, Delo, etc. Most of these HDEOs are rated ACEA E7 or E9 and so should have the required HTHS of 3.5 or more.

 

[jfatula98]

Originally Posted By: SR5
OverKill made a good point. BMW LL01 and ACEA A3/B4 oils have a high standard to meet, including a HTHS of 3.5 or more.

A SN mineral oil does not have to meet the same standards, and may have a lower HTHS value (depending on which Dino oil is selected). Changing this mineral oil early will not increase it's HTHS value. In certain applications it may not have enough film strength to protect your engine correctly. I see a certain risk involved, that changing your oil early does not mitigate.




Thank you....this is really the kind of opinion I was looking for. I want to know what benefit the synthetic oil provides over conventional if you remove its extended drain advantage. It seems like greater film strength would be a worthwhile benefit.

 

[KrisZ]

Originally Posted By: jfatula98

Thank you....this is really the kind of opinion I was looking for. I want to know what benefit the synthetic oil provides over conventional if you remove its extended drain advantage. It seems like greater film strength would be a worthwhile benefit.


That's not the case at all. Buy any vanilla SN rated synthetic and its HTHS will be the same as any other SN rated conventional oil.

The specific manufacturer and European requirements (BMW LL01 and ACEA A3/B4) are the ones that specify the minimum HTHS requirements, but since they also require an extended drain interval, it leaves only synthetics as choice.

That is why people are recommending here to get an oil that is at least ACEA A3/A4 rated because it will ensure the minimum HTHS requirement is met. If you buy a regular non ACEA or BMW LL01 rated synthetic oil , it will provide no benefit over a similar conventional oil in regards to HTHS viscosity.

 

[SilverC6]

An earlier thread established that Castrol 0W-40 works for everything.

So here's an application where it truly is the right oil.

So pick up some Castrol 0W-40 for the BMW.

Use the PYB on an old Toyota with 150,000 miles.

 

[SR5]

Yes, as KrisZ said, not any synthetic oil will do, you need a ACEA A3/B4 rated oil. A3/B4 oils are mostly synthetic oils, but not all synthetic oils are A3/B4.

In Australia the ACEA oils seem more popular than in North America. So we also have some ACEA A3/B4 semi-synthetics oils here, Castrol Magnatec (10W30, 10W40) and Valvoline Durablend (10W40).

The above semi-synthetics are often the bulk (default) oil for a lot of garages/mechanics around here. They go into everything, from BMW & MB to Toyota & Ford.

 

[KenO]

Originally Posted By: OVERKILL
Originally Posted By: KenO

IF you're going to use a syn - avoid the generic US syns like M1 5W-40 etc. Stick to either BMW LL-01, or A3/B4 Euro synthetics.


Generic M1 5w-40? The only two M1 5w-40's are the TDT, which is an HDEO, and the ESP 5w-40, which is an MB-spec oil. Hardly generic

However I agree (and mentioned above) that an LL-01 is the best choice.


I meant to type 5W-30. I can't edit now, sorry.

 

[rainman49]

Wife's 2004 530i with the M54 engine gets any LL-01 oil I find on sale. That has ranged from Motul to Castrol to Mobil 1 to Pennzoil. 6K OCIs.