BMW N54 Oils

[Pinned]

I've recently bought a 2007 335i. It's got 115k miles on it but has had solid maintenance with low mileage oil changes (always under 5k) using a variety of synthetics. I want to ensure I'm using something that's appropriate for this engine, but seems most of the discussion for these cars has moved to Facebook and it's tougher to find more recent info on forums.

The car is tuned and I do run some Ethanol here and there - usually an E30 blend. But it's otherwise just a daily driver. It'll likely make a bit more power in the future but it's not a track car.

I sent the oil that was in the car out to Blackstone, waiting on results.
I changed to Mobil 1 Euro 5w40 with the LL01 cert. I'll send this out to Blackstone as well at 3k miles. No appreciable change in how the car runs with Mobil 1 versus the mystery 5W40 that was in it.
The Mobil 1 looks pretty good with a KV100 of 13.2 and I believe an HTHS of 3.9. I can't find the NOACK for it though.

I know there is a lot of concern about fuel dilution, shearing, and then carbon deposits due to the DI.
What I see recommended most for BMW's turbo cars is Motul X-Cess Gen 2, Liqui Moly (I don't think I want to run this), and Ravenol for the newer motors. I've also seen some recommendations for Quaker State Euro 5W40 and the specs look pretty solid, especially for the price.

Is there a reason to spend big money on the Ravenol oils or even the Motul?
Is there a reason to switch from Mobil 1? It doesn't seem widely recommended but is what I've run in many cars.
Is there a reason I shouldn't give the Quaker State a shot? That one seems like it may be as good as any.

Appreciate the thoughts, if I'm misunderstanding any of the ratings and specs I'd certainly like to learn more.

 

[JavierH19]

I've also seen some recommendations for Quaker State Euro 5W40 and the specs look pretty solid, especially for the price.

It's most likely rebottled Pennzoil Platinum Euro 5w-40 which is great.

Is there a reason to spend big money on the Ravenol oils or even the Motul?

No. Buying a cheaper but still well spec'd oil like Mobil 1 Full Synthetic 0w-40 or Quaker State 5w-40 and changing more frequently with those savings is the best bet.

Is there a reason to switch from Mobil 1? It doesn't seem widely recommended but is what I've run in many cars.

It's good oil, buy fs 0w-40 for it if you like mobil. Can't go wrong if it's changed early just to be extra safe. Timing components love early oil changes more than better oil from what i've seen. If i had a higher mileage bmw i'd be changing every 3k.

Is there a reason I shouldn't give the Quaker State a shot? That one seems like it may be as good as any.

No reason not to. PPE and Quaker StateE have been the quietest hot idle sounding oils in engines i've used. Must be something special to that GTL base when it comes to reducing noise though the politically correct thing to say on here is that it doesn't matter if one oil sounds louder as long as it meets approvals. But I still like an oil that makes an engine's valvetrain quieter. Made the normally buzzy sounding 2.4 mitsubishi engine go up a few tax brackets in refinement.

 

[BMWTurboDzl]

I've recently bought a 2007 335i. It's got 115k miles on it but has had solid maintenance with low mileage oil changes (always under 5k) using a variety of synthetics. I want to ensure I'm using something that's appropriate for this engine, but seems most of the discussion for these cars has moved to Facebook and it's tougher to find more recent info on forums.

The car is tuned and I do run some Ethanol here and there - usually an E30 blend. But it's otherwise just a daily driver. It'll likely make a bit more power in the future but it's not a track car.

I sent the oil that was in the car out to Blackstone, waiting on results.
I changed to Mobil 1 Euro 5w40 with the LL01 cert. I'll send this out to Blackstone as well at 3k miles. No appreciable change in how the car runs with Mobil 1 versus the mystery 5W40 that was in it.
The Mobil 1 looks pretty good with a KV100 of 13.2 and I believe an HTHS of 3.9. I can't find the NOACK for it though.

I know there is a lot of concern about fuel dilution, shearing, and then carbon deposits due to the DI.
What I see recommended most for BMW's turbo cars is Motul X-Cess Gen 2, Liqui Moly (I don't think I want to run this), and Ravenol for the newer motors. I've also seen some recommendations for Quaker State Euro 5W40 and the specs look pretty solid, especially for the price.

Is there a reason to spend big money on the Ravenol oils or even the Motul?
Is there a reason to switch from Mobil 1? It doesn't seem widely recommended but is what I've run in many cars.
Is there a reason I shouldn't give the Quaker State a shot? That one seems like it may be as good as any.

Appreciate the thoughts, if I'm misunderstanding any of the ratings and specs I'd certainly like to learn more.

Fuel dilution was the big issue with this engine when it was launched. A former member (Terry Dyson) was posting about the amount of fuel present on even short runs. Just stick with a euro 5w40 and monitor fuel dilution. A LL04/229.51/.52, C40, 511.00 in 5w40 would probably be ideal as it may allow you to delay the inevitable intake valve cleaning every 30k miles because the PCV system for this engine wasn't the best which was typical of TGDI engines from the early 2000's.

UOA will give you a baseline and just go from there. Remember no oil is immune from fuel induced viscosity loss.

 

[Pinned]

It's most likely rebottled Pennzoil Platinum Euro 5w-40 which is great.

It is, at least from what I've read. I believe that's the same as the Shell branded high performance oils in other markets. Good to hear that this oil runs well. Spec sheet wise it seemed good to my novice eyes.

Fuel dilution was the big issue with this engine when it was launched. A former member (Terry Dyson) was posting about the amount of fuel present on even short runs. Just stick with a euro 5w40 and monitor fuel dilution. A LL04/229.51/.52, C40, 511.00 in 5w40 would probably be ideal as it may allow you to delay the inevitable intake valve cleaning every 30k miles because the PCV system for this engine wasn't the best which was typical of TGDI engines from the early 2000's.

UOA will give you a baseline and just go from there. Remember no oil is immune from fuel induced viscosity loss.

The LL04 is a lower SAPS version of the LL01 certification, right? Is there any other difference I should look out for between the certifications? I know LL01 was recommended partially due to higher sulfur content in our gas, but that's no longer the case if I understand.

Thank you both for the responses and info.

 

[BMWTurboDzl]

It is, at least from what I've read. I believe that's the same as the Shell branded high performance oils in other markets. Good to hear that this oil runs well. Spec sheet wise it seemed good to my novice eyes.


The LL04 is a lower SAPS version of the LL01 certification, right? Is there any other difference I should look out for between the certifications? I know LL01 was recommended partially due to higher sulfur content in our gas, but that's no longer the case if I understand.

Thank you both for the responses and info.

Correct.

 

[edyvw]

It is, at least from what I've read. I believe that's the same as the Shell branded high performance oils in other markets. Good to hear that this oil runs well. Spec sheet wise it seemed good to my novice eyes.


The LL04 is a lower SAPS version of the LL01 certification, right? Is there any other difference I should look out for between the certifications? I know LL01 was recommended partially due to higher sulfur content in our gas, but that's no longer the case if I understand.

Thank you both for the responses and info.

CBU will happen. How much LL04 will delay it is questionable.
I would run Pennzoil Platinum Euro 5W40. Low KV100, high HTHS, runs very clean as it is GTL, low Noack around 5.7%.

 

[chris719]

I second the Pennzoil Platinum Euro 5W-40 recommendation.

 

[CleanSump]

The Euro 5W-40s from Mobil, Castrol, Pennzoil, Quaker State are all fine for the engine. Plus, they're reasonably priced at Walmart. No need to spend twice as much for the expensive ones, especially if you're going to continue the 5k OCI.
The two things to watch are
Failed PCV will cause oil consumption and deposit buildup that can lead to sludge if left too long.
Monitor fuel dilution. But with 5W-40 and 5k OCIs it shouldn't be a problem.

 

[Pinned]

Thanks all. Good timing as I just received the UOA back from Blackstone this morning.
This was about 3,000mi and 12 months on an unknown synthetic 5W40.
They say fuel dilution is low.
I've also replaced the valve cover so the PCV should be working OK - little bit of oil in charge pipe but nothing that seems odd compared with turbo cars I've owned before. I am planning to add a catch can at some point to augment the PCV though.

If there is anything that stands out in this UOA I'd be curious but it looks OK compared to a few others I've seen.

 

[BMWTurboDzl]

Thanks all. Good timing as I just received the UOA back from Blackstone this morning.
This was about 3,000mi and 12 months on an unknown synthetic 5W40.
They say fuel dilution is low.
I've also replaced the valve cover so the PCV should be working OK - little bit of oil in charge pipe but nothing that seems odd compared with turbo cars I've owned before. I am planning to add a catch can at some point to augment the PCV though.

If there is anything that stands out in this UOA I'd be curious but it looks OK compared to a few others I've seen.

View attachment 315090

Looks fine. Enjoy the car.

 

[MCompact]

Thanks all. Good timing as I just received the UOA back from Blackstone this morning.
This was about 3,000mi and 12 months on an unknown synthetic 5W40.
They say fuel dilution is low.
I've also replaced the valve cover so the PCV should be working OK - little bit of oil in charge pipe but nothing that seems odd compared with turbo cars I've owned before. I am planning to add a catch can at some point to augment the PCV though.

If there is anything that stands out in this UOA I'd be curious but it looks OK compared to a few others I've seen.

View attachment 315090

I bought a new Mazdaspeed 3 in 2007; according to the self-proclaimed "experts" on several of the Mazda forums the MS3 motor was incredibly hard on oil and Mobil 1 was a particularly poor oil to use in that motor. used oil analysis on my car indicated: 1. Mobil 1 worked just fine in that application.
2. Fuel dilution was not a concern even with a 7,500 mile OCI.
When a Mazda forum thread would begin regurgitating those sorry tropes I would often post a few of my MS3 used oil analysis and enjoy watching the thread go totally quiet.