BMK-13, is it that bad?

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twouvakind

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There seems to be alot of negative chatter about the BMK-13. I have one sitting in a box and am reluctant to install it as a result. Is the BMK-11 preferred? I may want to sell the "13"(with three BE-90's)as a result or possible trade for an "11". The hoses supplied with this set-up(allegedly used for 6 mos.)are marked year 2000. Is the unit a "better" model or not so better that is from the early 2000's?
I know, lot's of questions...I just want a reliable by-pass system that can extend OCI's. I was stuck and sold on the "13" till I read all the dialog about it.
 
What is wrong with the BMK-13? Was Amsoil tech support contacted? Did you contact your Amsoil dealer? The newer Amsoil filters use EaO nanofiber technology.
 
Hmm ...and someone can correct me if I'm wrong, but isn't the only alteration to the BMK-13 ..for as long as I can look back ..was they swapped the solid "biasing valve" for one with a little hole in it??

If yours has the little hole in it, that's the latest model.
 
So far you seem to be missing the point...is the BMK-13...well...um.....as good as the BMK-11? I have seen recommendations in other postings here that lean toward the BMK-11. Now looking at the "13" you would figure it is a far superior set-up than the "11", but people recommend the "11" to it. The question begs to be answered, why the "11" vs. the "13"?
 
The 11 is $20 cheaper and may be easier to install on some vehicles than the 13. Both would use the same filters. Since the 13 remotely mounts the full flow filter, it would be easier to change.
 
Ah- now that we know the question ...
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What you're asking is what features could make someone choose one over the other. Not which one is "better". Tim appears to have answered that question.
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This is the sort of stuff that frightens me in installing this 13. This is a quote from a posting here:

I know that there are lots of Amsoil dual bypass systems in service, but they do cause a reduction of oil to the engine. The main full flow filter has a pressure drop of maybe 5 psi, lower with hot oil and a clean filter, higher with cold oil up to the internally bypass valve setting. The engine oil system is made for this. The bypass filter element has a very high pressure drop. The Amsoil dual system forces oil through the bypass filter and into the car's pressurized oil system by putting a pressure restriction in front of the full flow filter. This restriction in the oil system causes the oil pump's pressure regulating valve to open more and dump more oil into the sump rather than sending it to the engine.

I wouldn't use one. I'd rather have the single bypass filter, take oil from the oil pressure sender or other source through a 40-thousandths orifice, filter it, then dump it back to the sump.

Is this a valid argument? Again, is the 11 preferred as a result of this thought process?
 
These statements aren't a given ..it's a possibility ..but without qualifying it ...it's kinda numb (as in broad stroked in scope).



Those situations may occur on some engines in some circumstance, but there's no way to make that blanket statement about everyone all the time.

Again, look at your unit. They redesigned the biasing valve just for those situations. If your unit has the port through the biasing valve, you have the redesigned unit. You can take the thing out and the unit will still work. It will just have very little flow through the bypass filter until the full flow filter loads a bit.

I don't know what more I can say to you. I would not ditch this on a "performance" basis. I'd ditch if it was more "involved" than I wanted to get and wanted bypass filtration.
 
Well then....I will install with confidence in my new car. Can I just look at the valve and determine if it is the latest or do I need more info than what I have gotten?
 
Here's what the old style looked like

amsoilbypassold.jpg


That ball was solid. The newer one has a small hole through it. You may need to take out one of the plugs on the outboard (the rail that is ported to the outside of the filter -not the center threaded port) to take a look see.

I might see if I can order that biasing valve to install in my Dual Guard (BMK12). If so, I'll try and set it up with either two gauges or a differential gauge just to see what effect that valve has on the pressure across the filters.


BTW- what are you putting this on (did I miss it
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)?
 
If you run into any snags (unlikely- the biggest issue is finding room)..post it. You're looking at a very clean engine for the duration of your ownership.

cheers.gif
 
If you run into any snags (unlikely- the biggest issue is finding room)..post it. You're looking at a very clean engine for the duration of your ownership.

cheers.gif
 
If you run into any snags (unlikely- the biggest issue is finding room)..post it. You're looking at a very clean engine for the duration of your ownership.

cheers.gif
 
Wow ..looks like there's a echo here
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Just find some "space" that's away from the rotating parts. You then just lash it fast with zip ties. The great part about this over a rigid mounting is that you can engineer enough slack into the installation to put a pan under it when you, ultimately, have to service the unit. When you're done ..zip it fast again.
 
Quote:


Here's what the old style looked like

amsoilbypassold.jpg


That ball was solid. The newer one has a small hole through it. You may need to take out one of the plugs on the outboard (the rail that is ported to the outside of the filter -not the center threaded port) to take a look see.

I might see if I can order that biasing valve to install in my Dual Guard (BMK12). If so, I'll try and set it up with either two gauges or a differential gauge just to see what effect that valve has on the pressure across the filters.


BTW- what are you putting this on (did I miss it
confused.gif
)?




Gary,
I have one of those old style dual bypasses I would sell if you no of anyone who wants it. I assume they were made by PermCool.

Neal
 
Won hoos brain takes short cuts wile posting. The information age is the realm of newspeak.

I'd be interested ..just to add to the parts bin ..but I'm not in the market just now. I'm way over budget with my projects. Many have an oil shrine ...I have a filtration warehouse.
 
I've had my BMK-13 on my car for 4 years, and it works great. And my last UOA confirmed this. Mine doesn't have a hole in the check valve, so maybe they've changed the design. Rather than a ball shown in the above pictures, mine has a "cone" valve.

Here's a suggestion: Check to see if your oil pressure port is located after your filter (remove your oil filter & oil pressure sender - pour a little oil into the oil pressure port and if it comes out the oil filter mount center tube, it's located after your filter). If it is, then install an oil pressure gauge along with the BMK-13. If you're getting good oil pressure at startup, you're in clean oil heaven. And you will have the peace of mind knowing that your system is working properly.
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