My Dodge Ram has an engine block heater installed in one of the freeze plugs. I was looking at the Kats Engine block heater to see if they offered one for my 96 Toyota 2200. They show a freeze plug model available, but there is no easily accessible freeze plug to replace on it. I noticed they also make a lower radiator hose heater that you splice in. However, it says do not use unless the catalog states it is ok for that certain model vehicle. Which it does not state. Is there any real reason why installing one of these lower hose heaters would cause a problem with my engine??
Block heater question....
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I can't see how it would be a problem....... The only thing I can think is that maybe the hose can't handle the heat from the element? What about a magnetic style?
Originally Posted By: oilboy123
I can't see how it would be a problem....... The only thing I can think is that maybe the hose can't handle the heat from the element? What about a magnetic style?
I've never know about a magnetic style. I've seen the dipstick heaters, don't know how well those work. I don't see why the hose heater wouldn't work. If a hose can withstand 280deg of coolant, why would the heater cause a problem.
Where does this magnetic heater attach?
I can't see how it would be a problem....... The only thing I can think is that maybe the hose can't handle the heat from the element? What about a magnetic style?
I've never know about a magnetic style. I've seen the dipstick heaters, don't know how well those work. I don't see why the hose heater wouldn't work. If a hose can withstand 280deg of coolant, why would the heater cause a problem.
Where does this magnetic heater attach?
To the block
Radiator hose heaters are only moderately affective. They require that they be installed in a part of the lower hose that faces towards the block and at they also have to be located at the highest point in the hose. If you put it in a low spot it will created an air bubble towards the to of the hose and explode.
Did you try Toyota to see if there is a Toyota part availble. My experience with Japanese models (so far Honda, Subaru, Lexus have all been the same) has been that the block heaters usually screw into a engine drain plug hole to replace the plug itself, thus avoiding having to hammer out a freeze plug.. I've also seen (mostly with Toyota) a block heater that is not immersed in the coolant, but fits into a cavity in the block to heat the metal of the block itself. Maybe your Toyota takes either of these types and not the freeze plug type?
If you have a steel oil pan-you can't beat a magnetic oil heater-heats the oil (improving crank speed) & will eventually heat the block through conduction as well.
oil pan heaters are the cats meow.
Originally Posted By: Steve S
oil pan heaters are the cats meow.
+1 A Wolverine oil pan heater is awesome. It heats the oil from the lowest point on the oil pan, and heat rises. They work very well. Having both an oil pan heater and a block heater would be the ulitmate way to go. JMO
oil pan heaters are the cats meow.
+1 A Wolverine oil pan heater is awesome. It heats the oil from the lowest point on the oil pan, and heat rises. They work very well. Having both an oil pan heater and a block heater would be the ulitmate way to go. JMO
I'll see if I can get one tomorrow. I'm a little leery of something on my oil pan with a magnet, I hope it doest fall off.
It seems like they have a few different sizes. I guess I need to measure my pan. Also, how does the hotter oil when cold do as far as viscocity? I'm prob wrong, but wouldn't then oil flow better at cold (5w) vs hot (40)??
*Also, the magnetic one says "Indoor Use Only" and "Always remove from before operating vehicle" Whats up with that???
I see they also make a dipstick heater. Any good? I noticed that their battery heater says ONLY USE WHEN BELOW FREEZING. Any problem with the pan heaters for this??
Yeah, I looked at my lower hose, and the way it routes, there isn't really a highest point before it goes into the engine, so I guess that is out of the question.
It seems like they have a few different sizes. I guess I need to measure my pan. Also, how does the hotter oil when cold do as far as viscocity? I'm prob wrong, but wouldn't then oil flow better at cold (5w) vs hot (40)??
*Also, the magnetic one says "Indoor Use Only" and "Always remove from before operating vehicle" Whats up with that???
I see they also make a dipstick heater. Any good? I noticed that their battery heater says ONLY USE WHEN BELOW FREEZING. Any problem with the pan heaters for this??
Yeah, I looked at my lower hose, and the way it routes, there isn't really a highest point before it goes into the engine, so I guess that is out of the question.
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I have a lower radiator hose heater in the Buick. It works well. The coolant is usually around 90-100*F after being on for 3 hours before firing it up in the mornings. The coolant temperature doesn't drop after startup, which likely means the block is also at that temperature.
In my application, the heat not transferred into the coolant goes up past the ignition coils and battery, so cold-morning startups are very fast.
The heater is located near the top of the lower hose, right before it bends to head into the water pump. It's still fairly low relative to the engine and on the opposite end of the system from the thermostat, so it seems to do good job convecting the warmed coolant throughout the block.
In my application, the heat not transferred into the coolant goes up past the ignition coils and battery, so cold-morning startups are very fast.
The heater is located near the top of the lower hose, right before it bends to head into the water pump. It's still fairly low relative to the engine and on the opposite end of the system from the thermostat, so it seems to do good job convecting the warmed coolant throughout the block.
Sorry, I was looking at magnetics, not the heating pads. Do I just get the biggest one that fits the oil pan?
The size of the pad is usually determined by oil sump capacity.
Originally Posted By: sciphi
I have a lower radiator hose heater in the Buick. It works well. The coolant is usually around 90-100*F after being on for 3 hours before firing it up in the mornings. The coolant temperature doesn't drop after startup, which likely means the block is also at that temperature.
In my application, the heat not transferred into the coolant goes up past the ignition coils and battery, so cold-morning startups are very fast.
The heater is located near the top of the lower hose, right before it bends to head into the water pump. It's still fairly low relative to the engine and on the opposite end of the system from the thermostat, so it seems to do good job convecting the warmed coolant throughout the block.
+1
Phillips and Temro are a big manufacturer of these. They work well, provided all your coolant lines stay open cold. I originally installed a Calix heater in my Golf TDI. That heater barely warmed things up, like most block heaters, but sufficient for decent starting. Then it blew electrically (shorted out) and I found out these things were prone to that. I looked up an alternative, and these were the Phillips and Temro heaters. About $50 versus $200, and available in 1,000W or 1,500W (versus only 200W - 300W). Worked amazing! Almost instant cabin heat in a diesel in -20C and colder temperatures. A thermostat inside these prevent things from getting too hot (they never get anywhere near full operating temperature for engine coolant). Most of these are installed in the lower rad hose, but may vary by application. The VW TDI's had them installed in a smaller coolant line (might have been one of the heater lines, but I forget now).
Add a battery blanket while you're at it, so that your battery can put out as close to full power as possible to assist with starting.
I have a lower radiator hose heater in the Buick. It works well. The coolant is usually around 90-100*F after being on for 3 hours before firing it up in the mornings. The coolant temperature doesn't drop after startup, which likely means the block is also at that temperature.
In my application, the heat not transferred into the coolant goes up past the ignition coils and battery, so cold-morning startups are very fast.
The heater is located near the top of the lower hose, right before it bends to head into the water pump. It's still fairly low relative to the engine and on the opposite end of the system from the thermostat, so it seems to do good job convecting the warmed coolant throughout the block.
+1
Phillips and Temro are a big manufacturer of these. They work well, provided all your coolant lines stay open cold. I originally installed a Calix heater in my Golf TDI. That heater barely warmed things up, like most block heaters, but sufficient for decent starting. Then it blew electrically (shorted out) and I found out these things were prone to that. I looked up an alternative, and these were the Phillips and Temro heaters. About $50 versus $200, and available in 1,000W or 1,500W (versus only 200W - 300W). Worked amazing! Almost instant cabin heat in a diesel in -20C and colder temperatures. A thermostat inside these prevent things from getting too hot (they never get anywhere near full operating temperature for engine coolant). Most of these are installed in the lower rad hose, but may vary by application. The VW TDI's had them installed in a smaller coolant line (might have been one of the heater lines, but I forget now).
Add a battery blanket while you're at it, so that your battery can put out as close to full power as possible to assist with starting.
I justed ordered a 24100 100w 2-5 qt sump. We will see how it does.
I've noticed that the block heater on my 360 does't provide instant heat or anything, but I've noticed that it the truck warms up about 10x faster at idle that it did without it. For some reason that truck always seems to take a long to heat up without it.
I've noticed that the block heater on my 360 does't provide instant heat or anything, but I've noticed that it the truck warms up about 10x faster at idle that it did without it. For some reason that truck always seems to take a long to heat up without it.
Johnny248It seems like they have a few different sizes. I guess I need to measure my pan. Also said:
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