2007 Toyota Corolla Manual Trans Clutch doesn't have it's own reservoir but uses brake fluid from the master cylinder. I've never had a hydraulic clutch before. How do I bleed it? I know how to bleed the brakes pumping the pedal. Is it the same with the clutch? Also, if I bleed the brakes farthest to nearest, I should bleed the clutch last becasue it's the nearest to the MC?
bleeding the clutch
- Thread starter tigrpal
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Why would you want to bleed it on an 07? It's probably fine.
But, the proper procedure is to have the reservoir cap off the master cylinder. Take the dust boot off the bleed valve on the slave cylinder and hook a length of clear tubing to it and a into a container. Have someone in the car to operate the pedal.
Have them push the pedal in and hold it in. Release the bleed screw "SLIGHTLY" till fluid comes out and NO AIR BUBBLES (if you open it a lot, air can get sucked back in and you'll see bubbles). Close the valve securely (tight enough that air can't get sucked back in, but don't hang off it and strip it) and have person release pedal slowly. Fluid in master cylinder reservoir has now dropped. Keep it topped off so it doesn't get low and suck air in (maybe after every to cycles).
Be very careful as brake fluid will eat paint like turpentine.
Use brand new fluid from a sealed container.
But again, unless you know there's an issue with the system, it's fine for a 2007 most likely. I've only done it once in the 150,000 miles of my 94 Corolla's life.
But, the proper procedure is to have the reservoir cap off the master cylinder. Take the dust boot off the bleed valve on the slave cylinder and hook a length of clear tubing to it and a into a container. Have someone in the car to operate the pedal.
Have them push the pedal in and hold it in. Release the bleed screw "SLIGHTLY" till fluid comes out and NO AIR BUBBLES (if you open it a lot, air can get sucked back in and you'll see bubbles). Close the valve securely (tight enough that air can't get sucked back in, but don't hang off it and strip it) and have person release pedal slowly. Fluid in master cylinder reservoir has now dropped. Keep it topped off so it doesn't get low and suck air in (maybe after every to cycles).
Be very careful as brake fluid will eat paint like turpentine.
Use brand new fluid from a sealed container.
But again, unless you know there's an issue with the system, it's fine for a 2007 most likely. I've only done it once in the 150,000 miles of my 94 Corolla's life.
You may also need to remove the slave cylinder so you can tilt the bleed screw to the top.
Only if you run the fluid reservoir dry when you bleed the brakes.
As long as you keep the reservoir at least a quarter full during your brake bleeding, no air will enter your clutch line and you will not need to bleed it.
BTW I have read umpteen times the statement that the furthest cylinder/caliper should be bled first and the nearest one last but I have never been able to figure out the reasoning behind this. A while ago I posed this specific question on this forum and did not get any replies that answered the question to my satisfaction.
As long as you keep the reservoir at least a quarter full during your brake bleeding, no air will enter your clutch line and you will not need to bleed it.
BTW I have read umpteen times the statement that the furthest cylinder/caliper should be bled first and the nearest one last but I have never been able to figure out the reasoning behind this. A while ago I posed this specific question on this forum and did not get any replies that answered the question to my satisfaction.
You want to bleed the system starting with the most upstream point (closest to the reservoir outlet) and work in order downstream to avoid cross-contamination with old fluid. You won't be able to tell this easily by examination in a recent car, so refer to the manf directions for the specific model.
I don't know where the farthest-to-closest recommendation came from, but I suspect on some cars, by coincidence this happened to be the correct order. Obviously the length of the brake lines is irrelevant. Draw a simple schematic to satisfy yourself.
But on the whole, if no air is introduced into passages shared by more than one brake line, then don't worry about the small amount of cross-contamination that might occur, and use any bleeding order. Again, best to refer to manf recommendations for that specific model.
I don't know where the farthest-to-closest recommendation came from, but I suspect on some cars, by coincidence this happened to be the correct order. Obviously the length of the brake lines is irrelevant. Draw a simple schematic to satisfy yourself.
But on the whole, if no air is introduced into passages shared by more than one brake line, then don't worry about the small amount of cross-contamination that might occur, and use any bleeding order. Again, best to refer to manf recommendations for that specific model.
VWs have a bleeder nipple right at the slave cylinder for the clutch. If your system is similar, should be straightforward. Do the clutch first, then the brakes.
Note of interest:
The clutch pedal will sink to the floor and stay there. Your helper will have to manually lift the pedal off the floor. I think it took me 5 or 6 cycles to get fresh fluid out when I did my 03 Toyota Matrix (built of the Corolla platform).
The clutch pedal will sink to the floor and stay there. Your helper will have to manually lift the pedal off the floor. I think it took me 5 or 6 cycles to get fresh fluid out when I did my 03 Toyota Matrix (built of the Corolla platform).
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Tosh, I still do not see how bleeding the one closest leads to less cross-contamination.
Still puzzled.
Still puzzled.
Imagine bleeding a line 'below' the others first. This will draw a small amount of old fluid into an area that won't be bled again. If the lines above are already clean, only clean fluid gets drawn downward.
Originally Posted By: wantin150
Note of interest:
The clutch pedal will sink to the floor and stay there.
Every Toyota I've seen has a spring on the pedal and it will return itself while bleeding.
Note of interest:
The clutch pedal will sink to the floor and stay there.
Every Toyota I've seen has a spring on the pedal and it will return itself while bleeding.
First, suck out as much old fluid as possible from the reservoir with a turkey baster [CLEAN!] or similar tool. Then refill with fresh fluid - keep the level high when bleeding.
You can gravity bleed the clutch to clutch it and it will work great. Just loosen the bleeder screw and let it drain! You don't have to touch the pedal. Use a piece of vacuum or aquarium tubing to route it down and away from car parts. Brake fluid EATS PAINT.
By yourself, this is a method that works well, and is very good maintenance.
It also works for the brakes.
There are all sorts of other methods, but this will work great for a newer car.
You can gravity bleed the clutch to clutch it and it will work great. Just loosen the bleeder screw and let it drain! You don't have to touch the pedal. Use a piece of vacuum or aquarium tubing to route it down and away from car parts. Brake fluid EATS PAINT.
By yourself, this is a method that works well, and is very good maintenance.
It also works for the brakes.
There are all sorts of other methods, but this will work great for a newer car.
Not mine! 
Try one of those vacuum pumps. Don't waste your time.
Gravity bleeding is slower, but works well and is safe.
mechtech2 you are right, but it's sooo slow.
Originally Posted By: Louie's gone fishing
Try one of those vacuum pumps. Don't waste your time.
Why not a power bleeder?
http://www.motiveproducts.com/
Try one of those vacuum pumps. Don't waste your time.
Why not a power bleeder?
http://www.motiveproducts.com/
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