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Holy crap you might be onto something. The lower hose does feel kinda flimsy.... I'm going to see if I can find a local replacement and just swap it out... Hopefully a parts store around here has it
Bleeding cooling system
- Thread starter yuthanasia
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That's what I'm thinking, something along those lines. I filled it back up with coolant and put the funnel and let it run, coolant temp in the funnel was 180F and fans wouldn't come on after 15 minutes ago I revved it to 2,000 rpms for a few seconds at a time and they came on. I got underneath and felt the lower radiator hose was super hot whereas it wasn't even warm before so boom circulation is happening. I had my wife rev it to 4,000 rpms while I checked the lower hose and no collapse... Going to go drive it with AC on full blast and bounce off the rev limiter a bunch of times and see if it goes above half, wish me luck
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Why are you beating on it? Seems like you're over stressing the engine.
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I
I call it spirited lol
If it is a plastic impeller, particularly, they can crack/slip on the shaft. Ford Contour / Mercury Mystique V6 Duratec had these. I pre-emptively changed it to an all-metal jobber water pump many years ago...
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If this vehicle has a separate rear heating zone, you will need to bleed that system, too. Otherwise you have air.
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It has to be the pump slipping or impeller slowly failing. It started Thursday when I noticed it at about 2/3 up the temp gauge. I changed out the t-stat but nadda. I MIGHT try the pump job myself idk depends on prices I get lol. I think I could do it, just tedious.
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If a pump is not on the front of an engine whereby I can easily get to it, I pay someone else to deal with it. I don't have the patience for that ****.
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It's at the front, just have to take off the whole inlet assembly, a fuel injector computer cover etc..I'd really rather pay someone something reasonable $500-$700 to do it lol
What kind of car?
If you feel you installed it wrong. Redo it. Chalk it up to experience and keep us posted.
If you feel you installed it wrong. Redo it. Chalk it up to experience and keep us posted.
If this was a known problem with this vehicle I could see replacing it. I would buy a new Radiator Cap first.
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I have an OEM one coming from Longo Lexus, I read how radiator caps can cause issues but it seems in good shape rubber seals seem fine and it depresses...I would be both happy and pissed if that was it. No parts stores around here have any compatible radiator caps, seems like a really common one.
What's a heater Valve?I had this happen last summer after a coolant exchange. Taking it on the highway with the heater valve full open solved the issue. A vacuum system would be easier and more comfortable on a July day.
Sam_Julier
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Thanks Sam
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ran it with the cap off, looked like a weak clockwise whirlpool. Once temp hit about 205F the fans came on and the thermostat opened, it looked more like a river/whirlpool after that. I'm wondering if the original thermostat went bad, and the replacement is crap because it's a duralast, the date on it is 6/2018...I looked on rockauto and the aisin O.E one is supposed to open at 180F. I ordered the aisin from rockauto, guess I'll switch it again and see. I did boil the original thermostat and it opened about 1/4 of an inch, the spring wouldn't collapse any more than that so confirmed the original was a big issue, if not THE issue. This duralast is probably trash, I'm reading issues from other boards with duralast thermostats not opening until 205-210.
The side of the housing says 82C, the old googles says that is 179.6F, so 180. (this is the original one I pulled)
This is at boiling temp, I took it out and immediately took a photo...from the photos online I have seen, that large spring should collapse much farther than that, the opening here doesn't seem large enough to allow efficient circulation which would explain why it would get 3/4 up the gauge then go back to normal running the heater on full blast, it was allowing SOME, just enough to not completely overheat. I'm reading that these duralast ones aren't opening until a little over 200. If Lexus designed them to open at 180, they did that for a reason.
I could see how the duralast one not opening until at least 200 would mimic these same symptoms, the thermostat opens when the coolant is already too hot per manufacturer spec, by the time it circulates to cool it gets a little below 200 and closes again...never getting down to the 180 lexus calls for before closing, thus not allowing the coolant to get cool enough. I'm not super knowledgeable here but that's how it makes sense in my mind. This thermostat looks partially open to me, what do you think?
I tried to shove a screwdriver in the opening when it was "open" to pry it open and see if it could open more, it did, then broke lol. I guess I could install this housing without a thermostat and see if it repeats the issue while waiting on the aisin one to come next week, not sure what a lack of a thermostat would do to emissions components or other things though, might get the "open loop" code
The side of the housing says 82C, the old googles says that is 179.6F, so 180. (this is the original one I pulled)
This is at boiling temp, I took it out and immediately took a photo...from the photos online I have seen, that large spring should collapse much farther than that, the opening here doesn't seem large enough to allow efficient circulation which would explain why it would get 3/4 up the gauge then go back to normal running the heater on full blast, it was allowing SOME, just enough to not completely overheat. I'm reading that these duralast ones aren't opening until a little over 200. If Lexus designed them to open at 180, they did that for a reason.
I could see how the duralast one not opening until at least 200 would mimic these same symptoms, the thermostat opens when the coolant is already too hot per manufacturer spec, by the time it circulates to cool it gets a little below 200 and closes again...never getting down to the 180 lexus calls for before closing, thus not allowing the coolant to get cool enough. I'm not super knowledgeable here but that's how it makes sense in my mind. This thermostat looks partially open to me, what do you think?
I tried to shove a screwdriver in the opening when it was "open" to pry it open and see if it could open more, it did, then broke lol. I guess I could install this housing without a thermostat and see if it repeats the issue while waiting on the aisin one to come next week, not sure what a lack of a thermostat would do to emissions components or other things though, might get the "open loop" code
Probably run hotter if its missing the valve on the end which blocks off hot water, or if water circulates too fast and doesn't spend enough time in the radiator to dissipate heat.
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