Hey fellas, I know its critical not to run the system dry on abs systems but what about non abs systems? I'm going to be changing my front lines with braided stainless but just in case I'm not quick enough would there be any issues running the system dry and bleeding afterwards? I'll be using my motive bleeder, thanks.
Bleeding brakes after brake line change
- Thread starter ARB1977
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If you run the system dry, you may have to take the master cyl out to bench bleed it first.
I would use plugs to prevent the system from running dry.
I would use plugs to prevent the system from running dry.
Originally Posted By: The Critic
If you run the system dry, you may have to take the master cyl out to bench bleed it first.
I would use plugs to prevent the system from running dry.
Were do you find plugs?
If you run the system dry, you may have to take the master cyl out to bench bleed it first.
I would use plugs to prevent the system from running dry.
Were do you find plugs?
You won't have issues with running dry. It takes almost 2 hours to drop the system dry.
You can get small pipe plugs that have the correct thread size for brake lines:
That's what I use whenever I need to disconnect a line. It's nice being able to work as long as I want without fluid dripping all over the place. You should be able to get plugs at any parts store.
Best thing to do when opening up brake system for anything, is to depress brake pedal just half way or so. Use a rod or stick of wood jammed against seat or steering wheel. When the pedal is depressed it blocks the ports on the master cylinder and will trap all the fluid in, upstream from wherever you take it apart. Works great, been doing it that way forever. Might need to unhook battery if the brake lights are on for awhile. Fluid can only leak out of the master cylinder when the pedal is all the way up.
Originally Posted By: Traction
Best thing to do when opening up brake system for anything, is to depress brake pedal just half way or so. Use a rod or stick of wood jammed against seat or steering wheel. When the pedal is depressed it blocks the ports on the master cylinder and will trap all the fluid in, upstream from wherever you take it apart. Works great, been doing it that way forever. Might need to unhook battery if the brake lights are on for awhile. Fluid can only leak out of the master cylinder when the pedal is all the way up.
Good one
Or you can place Cling Film over the top of the Master Cyl reservoir, If Air can't get in, not much fluid will leak out.
Best thing to do when opening up brake system for anything, is to depress brake pedal just half way or so. Use a rod or stick of wood jammed against seat or steering wheel. When the pedal is depressed it blocks the ports on the master cylinder and will trap all the fluid in, upstream from wherever you take it apart. Works great, been doing it that way forever. Might need to unhook battery if the brake lights are on for awhile. Fluid can only leak out of the master cylinder when the pedal is all the way up.
Good one
Or you can place Cling Film over the top of the Master Cyl reservoir, If Air can't get in, not much fluid will leak out.
Originally Posted By: expat
Originally Posted By: Traction
Best thing to do when opening up brake system for anything, is to depress brake pedal just half way or so. Use a rod or stick of wood jammed against seat or steering wheel. When the pedal is depressed it blocks the ports on the master cylinder and will trap all the fluid in, upstream from wherever you take it apart. Works great, been doing it that way forever. Might need to unhook battery if the brake lights are on for awhile. Fluid can only leak out of the master cylinder when the pedal is all the way up.
Good one
Or you can place Cling Film over the top of the Master Cyl reservoir, If Air can't get in, not much fluid will leak out.
The cap better be sealed or the fluid will be absorbing moisture which causes rust/corrosion inside the system... In this light, cling film serves no practical purpose...
I never worry about the amount of fluid, just plug off the line(s) and do the repair... When I'm finished I'll vac bleed the system then check pedal feel/height, which is first time I'll even touch the brake pedal......
Originally Posted By: Traction
Best thing to do when opening up brake system for anything, is to depress brake pedal just half way or so. Use a rod or stick of wood jammed against seat or steering wheel. When the pedal is depressed it blocks the ports on the master cylinder and will trap all the fluid in, upstream from wherever you take it apart. Works great, been doing it that way forever. Might need to unhook battery if the brake lights are on for awhile. Fluid can only leak out of the master cylinder when the pedal is all the way up.
Good one
Or you can place Cling Film over the top of the Master Cyl reservoir, If Air can't get in, not much fluid will leak out.
The cap better be sealed or the fluid will be absorbing moisture which causes rust/corrosion inside the system... In this light, cling film serves no practical purpose...
I never worry about the amount of fluid, just plug off the line(s) and do the repair... When I'm finished I'll vac bleed the system then check pedal feel/height, which is first time I'll even touch the brake pedal......
Some good info, thanks everyone.
The less fluid that comes out the better, which blocking the brake pedal will do. Pretty hard to plug the line, if that is what you are working on. The whole idea is to not make it harder or messier than necessary. Blocking the pedal is the only way to do it.
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The amount of brake fluid loss will be minimal unless you take an awful long time to install the new line.
When I did one front line on the Focus, I first loosened the holding clips and then both ends of the line. Just a quarter turn was enough for me to know they are not rusted in.
I put an oil pan underneath, removed the old line and put on the new line. I lost maybe few table spoons worth of brake fluid. Nothing to worry about.
When I did one front line on the Focus, I first loosened the holding clips and then both ends of the line. Just a quarter turn was enough for me to know they are not rusted in.
I put an oil pan underneath, removed the old line and put on the new line. I lost maybe few table spoons worth of brake fluid. Nothing to worry about.
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There are a number of ways to skin the cat. I shared mine, you shared yours...
Originally Posted By: Traction
The less fluid that comes out the better, which blocking the brake pedal will do. Pretty hard to plug the line, if that is what you are working on. The whole idea is to not make it harder or messier than necessary. Blocking the pedal is the only way to do it.
Not if it needs flushing anyway... With brake work, I figure the more old fluid out and new in, the better...
The less fluid that comes out the better, which blocking the brake pedal will do. Pretty hard to plug the line, if that is what you are working on. The whole idea is to not make it harder or messier than necessary. Blocking the pedal is the only way to do it.
Not if it needs flushing anyway... With brake work, I figure the more old fluid out and new in, the better...
Originally Posted By: KrisZ
The amount of brake fluid loss will be minimal unless you take an awful long time to install the new line.
When I did one front line on the Focus, I first loosened the holding clips and then both ends of the line. Just a quarter turn was enough for me to know they are not rusted in.
I put an oil pan underneath, removed the old line and put on the new line. I lost maybe few table spoons worth of brake fluid. Nothing to worry about.
Lefty loosey righty tighty, correct? Wasn't sure if lines for removal was the opposite.
The amount of brake fluid loss will be minimal unless you take an awful long time to install the new line.
When I did one front line on the Focus, I first loosened the holding clips and then both ends of the line. Just a quarter turn was enough for me to know they are not rusted in.
I put an oil pan underneath, removed the old line and put on the new line. I lost maybe few table spoons worth of brake fluid. Nothing to worry about.
Lefty loosey righty tighty, correct? Wasn't sure if lines for removal was the opposite.
Originally Posted By: exranger06
You can get small pipe plugs that have the correct thread size for brake lines:
That's what I use whenever I need to disconnect a line. It's nice being able to work as long as I want without fluid dripping all over the place. You should be able to get plugs at any parts store.
Thanks. I'm assuming they sell female plugs also, lol?
You can get small pipe plugs that have the correct thread size for brake lines:
Thanks. I'm assuming they sell female plugs also, lol?
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Originally Posted By: ARB1977
Originally Posted By: exranger06
You can get small pipe plugs that have the correct thread size for brake lines:
That's what I use whenever I need to disconnect a line. It's nice being able to work as long as I want without fluid dripping all over the place. You should be able to get plugs at any parts store.
Thanks. I'm assuming they sell female plugs also, lol?
No, I haven't seen any female plugs. If you need a female plug, buy the male plug like the one in the picture and a brake line union. Thread the plug into one end of the union, and you have yourself a female plug.
Originally Posted By: exranger06
You can get small pipe plugs that have the correct thread size for brake lines:
Thanks. I'm assuming they sell female plugs also, lol?
No, I haven't seen any female plugs. If you need a female plug, buy the male plug like the one in the picture and a brake line union. Thread the plug into one end of the union, and you have yourself a female plug.
Squeezy ear plugs?
I wouldn't want to break off a golf tee in a line.
I wouldn't want to break off a golf tee in a line.
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