Bilstein 5160 for towing

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Jun 3, 2005
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Santa Barbara, CA
The 2007 F-350 I just bought still has the factory shocks, and they are in need of replacement. I always like to go Bilstein and I have been looking at the 5100 and 5160s. I do plan on towing with this at some point. FWIW the money difference between them isn't that big of a deal. I just want the best shock I can get, without spending the money on King or Fox. Just wondering if anyone has experience with 5160s in a truck that tows.
 
I can't speak to the 5160s, but I've been happy with my 5100s on my Jeep. It has a 2" lift, larger tires, and I tow a trailer often. Comfortable ride, good control, and they have held up well.
 
As a tower I like the 4600s. (Quote from source page)
I have run Bilstein 4600s in my last two Super Duties (still stock on my 2019), and had great results. I did look at the 5100 that Jim runs, but Bilstein said at the time (may have changed) that if you run the stock height the 4600 was just as good. It is entirely possible that I suffer from feeling like it was better to justify the cost and project, but my wife commented that the ride did seem better.

 
Bilstein told me a few years ago that the 4600 and 5100 were very similar. At some point I found real numbers and they were rather different. The 4600 is progressively valved while the 5100 were digressive. Whether that was based on velocity or extension I dont know for certain, but I thought it was based on extension.
 
the 4600 and 5100 have the same valving, the 5100 are coated differently and designed for lifted trucks in that they offer longer then oem lengths.
 
the 4600 and 5100 have the same valving, the 5100 are coated differently and designed for lifted trucks in that they offer longer then oem lengths.
Yep, that's what Bilstein told me when I emailed them about the 4600/5100 differences for the 2019+ Rangers.
 
I wouldn't worry about the 5160 unless you plan on turning it into an offroad race truck.
 
I have the 5160s on the front and 4600s on the rear of my 2011 2500hd. Towing is few and far between, but I will say they are fantastic for the price. The 4600s would serve you well in the rear if you want to save money.

Regardless of what people may have heard about the valving, it is not the same feel. The 5160s will have slightly softer feel with the faster rebound, and the 5100s are "stiffer" with less rebound and can give a harsher ride, especially if not lifted. The 4600s I feel were a good compromise between the two, although the colors(not desirable) and longevity may not live up to the other two.
Hope this helps.
 
5100s all the way around on my 17 3500HD. They make a set for 0 to 1 inch of lift.
I will say it rides better than stock and when I am towing, they really prevent any porpoising (or front to rear bounce).
 
Did the rears last night. I was an idiot and tried to hang the shock on the upper stud and then feed the bolt through the bottom eyelet. Then when my brain turned back on I did the bottom first and then had to pull down to get the upper eyelet on the stud, just as the strap that keeps the shock collapsed slid off. Finally got it all done while fighting sunset. I did the rears in the street in front of the house, then pulled the truck into my driveway to do the fronts but my body reminded me that I needed to go to work in the morning. So the fronts will get done over the weekend.

Just driving the truck around the block there is a massive improvement. The rears were still factory so probably anything, even Rancho, would have been better. I also sprung for the super bougie Bilstein billet clamps instead of the janky plastic spacers and hose clamps that come with the shocks.

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I have 6112's @ +1.9" in the front and 5160's @ stock height in the rear. I don't do a ton of towing but I do load the bed up quite often with close to payload and I've had no issues. This combo definitely rides better than stock.
 
Got the fronts and the steering damper (thank you @The Critic ). The ride is noticeably better. The fronts were a lot easier to install. I just put the bottom bolt in and pushed down on the shock until I could get the stud through the hole. Also did the 2 hot side CAC boots since the outlet pipe to the CAC was flopping around. Went for a drive and "BANG" one of the boots came off. Nursed it back home and realized I was an idiot and didn't use a long enough 11MM socket on one of the clamps.
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