Big sludgy problem!!
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I never recommend using solvent flushes because they can cause so much engine sludge to break free at the same time, covering most of the oil pump pickup and destroying the engine.
I would use a good cleaning oil like mentioned above, but replace one quart with mmo.
Originally Posted By: antiqueshell
Just use a good quality HEDO like Shell Rotella T5 or T6. Skip the MMO.
High detergent oils are great for this kind of thing, they do a slow gentle cleaning.
Good advice.
Just stick to good quality oil and shorten the oil change intervals for a few runs.
Just use a good quality HEDO like Shell Rotella T5 or T6. Skip the MMO.
High detergent oils are great for this kind of thing, they do a slow gentle cleaning.
Good advice.
Just stick to good quality oil and shorten the oil change intervals for a few runs.
On a scale of 10 that engine is about a 2 on the sludge factor compared to what i had come across several times.
Kreen or MMO with your favorite oil, which ever product you can buy.
Originally Posted By: mysterious_7
Unfortunately we don't have Pennzoil or marvel mystery oil in Australia, but I can buy them from Amazon and get them shipped over here from the US and I'll have to pay an extra non-refundable $50 "Dangerous goods fees" coz they're flammable goods..
And amazingly Australia hasn't imploded and sank into the ocean...
I'd just keep using the Mobil and change it at around 6000-8000 Km for the next couple OCI...
Unfortunately we don't have Pennzoil or marvel mystery oil in Australia, but I can buy them from Amazon and get them shipped over here from the US and I'll have to pay an extra non-refundable $50 "Dangerous goods fees" coz they're flammable goods..
And amazingly Australia hasn't imploded and sank into the ocean...
I'd just keep using the Mobil and change it at around 6000-8000 Km for the next couple OCI...
Originally Posted By: mysterious_7
Jeffy_D said:
Originally Posted By: OtisBlkR1
agreed: use some MMO and Pennzoil products to help clean it up, its not good (your pics) but its not awfull either.. MMO does slow cleaning. Use the recomended amound over several oil changes and it should start cleaning things up. 2 pennies
+1. Run a quart of MMO with the difference being Pennzoil Conventional 10w40. Two 3k oil changes and it should clean it up fine. Considering the age of the vehicle I wouldnt be concerned but the above cocktail will clean it up nicely.
agreed: use some MMO and Pennzoil products to help clean it up, its not good (your pics) but its not awfull either.. MMO does slow cleaning. Use the recomended amound over several oil changes and it should start cleaning things up. 2 pennies
+1. Run a quart of MMO with the difference being Pennzoil Conventional 10w40. Two 3k oil changes and it should clean it up fine. Considering the age of the vehicle I wouldnt be concerned but the above cocktail will clean it up nicely.
Run some quality synthetic oil for some short runs, and rest easy.
And, if it's done fine for 20 years on regular oils and indifferent maintenance, you don't want to kill it with kindness! This varnish wasn't created overnight, and it won't disappear overnight either.
And, if it's done fine for 20 years on regular oils and indifferent maintenance, you don't want to kill it with kindness! This varnish wasn't created overnight, and it won't disappear overnight either.
I wouldn't worry about it. Toyota engines were machined very well back then. My friends 1989 Camry would ooze out its oil at every change yet it ran like a champ. What's funny is he used whatever oil he could get for cheap (less than $2/quart but that was early 2000 prices) and the weight varied between xw30 and xw40. It was his beater car and he was (at that time) learning to be a mechanic. That car ran fine, and didn't burn oil. Of course, the occasional vacuum line would leak (all toyotas have this problem, especially early models - nothing but rubber vacuum lines). He had it for 4 years until he was able to afford a truck.
I'd worry less about the oil and more about that nasty cracked rubber hose to the left of the engine in some of the pictures. The hose looks very dry-rotted and wrapped with some sort of band-aid tape. Is this a coolant hose (the diameter is consistent with one). Replace that one as soon as possible.
Edit: I see that it appears to be a power steering hose. I'd replace that bugger before it bursts on you.
Edit: I see that it appears to be a power steering hose. I'd replace that bugger before it bursts on you.
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Originally Posted By: Hokiefyd
I'd worry less about the oil and more about that nasty cracked rubber hose to the left of the engine in some of the pictures. The hose looks very dry-rotted and wrapped with some sort of band-aid tape. Is this a coolant hose (the diameter is consistent with one). Replace that one as soon as possible.
Edit: I see that it appears to be a power steering hose. I'd replace that bugger before it bursts on you.
Good lookin' out but the cracks you're seeing are just in a protective wrap. It's there to get damaged while protecting the real hose underneath. It's nothing to be concerned about.
I'd worry less about the oil and more about that nasty cracked rubber hose to the left of the engine in some of the pictures. The hose looks very dry-rotted and wrapped with some sort of band-aid tape. Is this a coolant hose (the diameter is consistent with one). Replace that one as soon as possible.
Edit: I see that it appears to be a power steering hose. I'd replace that bugger before it bursts on you.
Good lookin' out but the cracks you're seeing are just in a protective wrap. It's there to get damaged while protecting the real hose underneath. It's nothing to be concerned about.
Pennzoil Conventional and Kreen...
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