BG Flush or drain/refill

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NightRiderQ45

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I have an Infiniti Q45 and it's time for the trans to be serviced. I serviced my trans back in June '06 with a drain/refill. I put a lot of highway mileage on my car when I was in college and I drive back & forth from Oklahoma to Alabama all the time. Plus I drive 100mi total commute to my job and back to my house M-F. I estimate that I've put close to 40k highway mileage on the transmission fluid that's in now so it's time for a change.

I want to put Synthetic M1 ATF in my car now because it deserves the good stuff. Even though the bottle says Mercon V, it also states Multi-Vehicle formula and it would be ok with my trans specs of dexIII. I've purchased 16qts and plan on taking it to a local shop here so they can use the BG Flushing system on my car. I've heard & read nothing but good things with the BG system. Is it ok to use the BG system for my car or just do the drain/refill method? I really don't want to do the drain/refill because I want to get all of the oil ATF out and replace with M1 ATF.

Thanks and happy to be on board...
 
Should be nothing wrong with letting the shop do the BG flush. They might not warranty their work if you want to use ATF that you bring in. They can't prove what's in those bottles, so if your transmission goes south after the flush due to something they did wrong, you could end up holding the bag.
 
Using their flushing system would be fine, but I would not let them use their cleaners or conditioners. Just use the Mobil 1 ATF. That's all it needs.
 
I agree with not allowing them to use the cleaner or conditioner. You can also do the flush yourself via the cooling lines. The procedure is detailed on the Amsoil website under their ATF fluid.
You would save a few QTs of ATF by doing it yourself.

If you do go to a shop, ask them to be sure and purge the machine of all new fluid before they add the M1 to the new fluid container. There can be a couple of QTs of new ATF in the new fluid container. Unfortunately the flush machine will end up with a couple of QTs of your M1 in it when the flush is done. So the next guy gets some good ATF in his car.

A filter such as a Magnefine would be a good idea also. Its about $20 at NAPA.
 
The BG trans service consists of a cleaner being added, idling for 10 minutes or so, then a total flush with new ATF and with BG's trans conditioner added.

While some may not like it, I have had it done twice (on 30k increments) on my 2003 Ford Expedition, and the trans operates and shifts better than new (now with about 70k). At my first 30k service my trans operation got smoother and quieter and has stayed that way ever since.

I personally would prefer standard ATF with the BG trans add than I would to pay the extra for M1 ATF - my 2 cents. Don't know what's in it, but it works well.
 
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I didn't know about the purge BG system thing. I will make sure that I tell them that. Also, why should they use their conditioners and cleaners? Any horror stories? I thought they only added that to the dino aft that they use. I was thinking that M1 alone should be fine. I think for the mileage on my trans, I don't want them to add any type of cleaner or conditioners to it. Thanks for all of the replies guys!!
 
I also want to add that purging of the new fluid container is not unique to any brand of flush machine. Almost all end the flush when there is some ATF still left in the new fluid container.

I brought my Camry in 3 years ago to a trusted mechanic, with a case of Amsoil ATF and had them flush the transmission. Then maybe 6 months ago I pulled a sample for a UOA and the ATF was in pretty bad shape according to the UOA and it was not Amsoil ATF. Unsure what happened with the flush, but there was probably a lot of ATF left in the new fluid container before they added any Amsoil. Hard to figure out what happened 3 years ago. But who knows what fluid you get, its all red ATF. Are you going to do a UOA right after the flush to make sure you get what you brought in? The mechanic when I talked to him about it did not have an answer, but did do another flush at no charge, but I did have to supply more Amsoil ATF.
 
Originally Posted By: Donald
I also want to add that purging of the new fluid container is not unique to any brand of flush machine. Almost all end the flush when there is some ATF still left in the new fluid container.

I brought my Camry in 3 years ago to a trusted mechanic, with a case of Amsoil ATF and had them flush the transmission. Then maybe 6 months ago I pulled a sample for a UOA and the ATF was in pretty bad shape according to the UOA and it was not Amsoil ATF. Unsure what happened with the flush, but there was probably a lot of ATF left in the new fluid container before they added any Amsoil. Hard to figure out what happened 3 years ago. But who knows what fluid you get, its all red ATF. Are you going to do a UOA right after the flush to make sure you get what you brought in? The mechanic when I talked to him about it did not have an answer, but did do another flush at no charge, but I did have to supply more Amsoil ATF.


I plan on standing right there and making sure that they purge the system and add only my M1 ATF.
grin2.gif
 
Stay away from the BG Flush because you can get unknown transmission fluid pumped into your transmission, if you want to clean it use Auto-Rx.Go ahead and add 6 ounces of Auto-Rx and then change the transmission fluid yourself and use the Transmission Calculator if you do not want to disconnect your cooler lines. Obviously with Auto-Rx in there you will have to drive 1000 miles before changing the fluid, this is better and safer than some 20 minute flush.
 
Amsoil recommends fluid and filter changes vs using a flushing machine. PDF Link I'll continue to use my oil return line and DIY. Good luck with your decision.
 
Originally Posted By: Cory
Amsoil recommends fluid and filter changes vs using a flushing machine. PDF Link I'll continue to use my oil return line and DIY. Good luck with your decision.


Cory - that is not quite my take when I read the TSB. It says the pan should be dropped, filter replaced and pan cleaned and replaced as part of a flush. They go on to tell one how to do a cooling line flush with no machine.
 
Originally Posted By: Donald
Originally Posted By: Cory
Amsoil recommends fluid and filter changes vs using a flushing machine. PDF Link I'll continue to use my oil return line and DIY. Good luck with your decision.


Cory - that is not quite my take when I read the TSB. It says the pan should be dropped, filter replaced and pan cleaned and replaced as part of a flush. They go on to tell one how to do a cooling line flush with no machine.


Exactly, that's is how I feel Donald. It's ok to use a BG machine, just make sure that they do the drop pan feature, which I plan on them doing. That TSB just stated that some people who use the flush system don't do the drop pan feature.
 
Don't forget to order a new filter kit, if there is one for your car.
After you drop the pan and change the filter, make sure you top off the fluid before you do the flush. Take plenty of extra fluid if it's not readily available.
Make sure the tech completely cleans the machine before filling it with your new, expensive fluid.
I agree with previous posters on adding 6 ozs of Auto-Rx to the transmission and driving for 1000 miles before flushing the transmission. You might as well go for greatness while you're at it!
 
Originally Posted By: INDYMAC
Don't forget to order a new filter kit, if there is one for your car.
After you drop the pan and change the filter, make sure you top off the fluid before you do the flush. Take plenty of extra fluid if it's not readily available.
Make sure the tech completely cleans the machine before filling it with your new, expensive fluid.
I agree with previous posters on adding 6 ozs of Auto-Rx to the transmission and driving for 1000 miles before flushing the transmission. You might as well go for greatness while you're at it!

Thanks for the input. Well, my car has a screen instead of the filter. It's been proven by some car fanatic on the NICO board that it doesn't have to be changed each time. I might replace it this time since I'm switching to synthetic. What is this Auto-RX stuff I keep hearing about? I thought that you shouldn't put flush/cleaning solvents in the motor or transmission?
 
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Auto-Rx is not a solvent. It's a blend of esters and di-esters that clean the metal parts in your engine and transmission. It also cleans the seals too. If you go to the BITOG oil additives forum, you will see some incredible testimonials from BITOG enthusiasts.
Here's a link to ARX website too:
http://auto-rx.com/
 
I also agree with the statement that Auto-Rx is a great cleaner (and safe) for the engine and transmission. Having said that if your ATF is still reddish, you probably do not need it. If you were not going to change the ATF for 1000 miles than adding AutoRx for the last 1000 miles would be a good idea. However new Mobil 1 that your planning on adding will also do a super job of cleaning the transmission.

If it were me, I'd get the flush with M1, and add a Magnefine filter for the same $20 that AutoRx would cost you. The filter will do more. Whoever does the flush can install the filter in 5 minutes assuming you have some rubber hose they can splice it into. The only concern is that they install it into the retuen hose in the right direction.
 
Also it seems to be common for the gasket for the pan included in a filter kit to be cork. Pay extra for a better quality gasket so it does not leak (non cork gasket).
 
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Originally Posted By: Donald
Originally Posted By: Cory
Amsoil recommends fluid and filter changes vs using a flushing machine. PDF Link I'll continue to use my oil return line and DIY. Good luck with your decision.


Cory - that is not quite my take when I read the TSB. It says the pan should be dropped, filter replaced and pan cleaned and replaced as part of a flush. They go on to tell one how to do a cooling line flush with no machine.


I read it as "Issues" and "Recommendation" hence seeing it as a preference. An implication under "Technical Discussion" also sways me to stay away from the flushing machines. "Manufacturers recommend a filter change with the oil change, and recommend against the use of flushing machines due to possible fluid contamination from pan sediment." This statement makes is sound as an either or scenario, machine or pan drop IMHO? :)
 
Originally Posted By: Cory
Originally Posted By: Donald
Originally Posted By: Cory
Amsoil recommends fluid and filter changes vs using a flushing machine. PDF Link I'll continue to use my oil return line and DIY. Good luck with your decision.


Cory - that is not quite my take when I read the TSB. It says the pan should be dropped, filter replaced and pan cleaned and replaced as part of a flush. They go on to tell one how to do a cooling line flush with no machine.


I read it as "Issues" and "Recommendation" hence seeing it as a preference. An implication under "Technical Discussion" also sways me to stay away from the flushing machines. "Manufacturers recommend a filter change with the oil change, and recommend against the use of flushing machines due to possible fluid contamination from pan sediment." This statement makes is sound as an either or scenario, machine or pan drop IMHO? :)


I think the better shops (not quick oil change places) will drop the pan and replace the filter if they are not sure of the service history and suspect either crud sitting on the bottom of the pan or a dirty filter.

However as far as the issues listed in the TSB, drain and refills via a drain plug would have the same problem as a flush.
 
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