Best way to prevent bolts from rusting?

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inquirer

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Quick question:

In my Mitsubishi Lancer 1 of the 4 bolts (I need to have the other 3 checked) of the front crossmember had rusted to the point it broke in half. The head has no signs of corrosion. Only the part that was in the chassis has corroded.

I bought a new one (not OE but of exactly the same strength) and I'm thinking what can I use to prevent the new one from rusting.

Grease of course offers protection, but is it OK to be used with bolts? I'm asking because I'm not sure if any kind of lubricant would be indicated for safety reasons. Do threadlockers as Loctite offer any protection against corrosion>? Any other alternatives?

Thanks in advance!
 
There are many types of anti seize, nuclear grade nickel offers the best corrosion resistance with steel but its very expensive, a nickel or copper anti seize will do the job well enough. Blue loctite also acts as an anti seize compound as well as a thread locker but not quite as good as a dedicated anti seize product.
 
Originally Posted by Trav
There are many types of anti seize, nuclear grade nickel offers the best corrosion resistance with steel but its very expensive, a nickel or copper anti seize will do the job well enough. Blue loctite also acts as an anti seize compound as well as a thread locker but not quite as good as a dedicated anti seize product.


Anti-seizes have lubricating properties, right? Does this mean that even grease or silicon grease would be OK regarding safety?

Originally Posted by Donald
Never-seize

I'm afraid that brand is not available in Greece.
 
The greases do not contain the metallic particles. There are anti seize compounds that are non metallic that use other substances like graphite to prevent fastener seizure.
Yes anti seize has lubricating properties and torque should be reduced by roughly 20% when tightening, on large diameter fasteners is not really an issue.
 
Can you get Krown T40 in Greece? Might be worth dipping a nut and bolt into a tub of Krown before installation and then giving them a light spray once a year or so.

Otherwise, grab some lithium multipurpose grease, like you'd use for CV joints and smother the nut and bolt before fitting. It's about all you can do.
 
Last edited:
Originally Posted by Trav
The greases do not contain the metallic particles. There are anti seize compounds that are non metallic that use other substances like graphite to prevent fastener seizure.
Yes anti seize has lubricating properties and torque should be reduced by roughly 20% when tightening, on large diameter fasteners is not really an issue.


So which type is best for steel bolts?

By the way what do you mean torque should be reduced by 20% when tightening? That an anti-seize would have as a result less friction after tightening the bolt or that less torque should be used as the target torque of tightening by the mechanic?

Originally Posted by Bailes1992
Can you get Krown T40 in Greece? Might be worth dipping a nut and bolt into a tub of Krown before installation and then giving them a light spray once a year or so.


I'm afraid that's not available either. I just saw that Loctite has anti-seizes too, so maybe that's a respectable solution. Anyway, I'm most concerned about finding the best type for the situation and I'll see what brands I can find that fulfill my requirements.
 
What year Lancer?

Sounds like you were lucky with getting the corroded threaded part out.
Does replacing the other 3 sound like a good idea?

You'll find that the quality of the bolts used has everything to do with the speed of rust propagation.
Look under several vehicles of approximately the same age and you'll see varying degrees of rusting due to varying degrees of material quality.
 
Originally Posted by Kira
What year Lancer?

Sounds like you were lucky with getting the corroded threaded part out.
Does replacing the other 3 sound like a good idea?

You'll find that the quality of the bolts used has everything to do with the speed of rust propagation.
Look under several vehicles of approximately the same age and you'll see varying degrees of rusting due to varying degrees of material quality.



The car is between 9-10 years old and it was bought new from the dealership.

Half of the threaded part is still in... The mechanic will loosen the other bolts and try to remove the seized part. If they won't succeed, they will use the help of a guy from a machine shop.

I will of course check the other bolts. If there are signs of rust I will get them replaced too. I'm also thinking of checking bolts in the rear...

I was also wondering if the tubes of the chassis are sealed and if water gets in there. Supposedly the original bolts should be of superior quality. Imagine what would have happened if the car was regularly driven to areas were salting the roads is common...
 
Originally Posted by Bailes1992
Otherwise, grab some lithium multipurpose grease, like you'd use for CV joints and smother the nut and bolt before fitting. It's about all you can do.


Noted. There is no nut by the way. It's just a bolt that tightens inside the chassis and keeps the crossmember in place. the threaded part gets inside the chassis.
 
Originally Posted by inquirer
Quick question:

In my Mitsubishi Lancer 1 of the 4 bolts (I need to have the other 3 checked) of the front crossmember had rusted to the point it broke in half. The head has no signs of corrosion. Only the part that was in the chassis has corroded.

I bought a new one (not OE but of exactly the same strength) and I'm thinking what can I use to prevent the new one from rusting.

Grease of course offers protection, but is it OK to be used with bolts? I'm asking because I'm not sure if any kind of lubricant would be indicated for safety reasons. Do threadlockers as Loctite offer any protection against corrosion>? Any other alternatives?

The first time I removed the transmission from my ECHO two of the crossmember bolts had so rusted away that I was surprised neither one snapped during removal. When I installed new ones I coated the bolt threads and shaft with Cor-Ban 27L, an anti-corrosion compound. It seems to have worked well because when I removed the transmission again years later to replace the clutch the bolts looked very good.

Anti-seize is not specifically for preventing corrosion.
 
Originally Posted by kschachn
Originally Posted by inquirer
Quick question:

In my Mitsubishi Lancer 1 of the 4 bolts (I need to have the other 3 checked) of the front crossmember had rusted to the point it broke in half. The head has no signs of corrosion. Only the part that was in the chassis has corroded.

I bought a new one (not OE but of exactly the same strength) and I'm thinking what can I use to prevent the new one from rusting.

Grease of course offers protection, but is it OK to be used with bolts? I'm asking because I'm not sure if any kind of lubricant would be indicated for safety reasons. Do threadlockers as Loctite offer any protection against corrosion>? Any other alternatives?

The first time I removed the transmission from my ECHO two of the crossmember bolts had so rusted away that I was surprised neither one snapped during removal. When I installed new ones I coated the bolt threads and shaft with Cor-Ban 27L, an anti-corrosion compound. It seems to have worked well because when I removed the transmission again years later to replace the clutch the bolts looked very good.

Anti-seize is not specifically for preventing corrosion.


Maybe it's not specific, but whatever substance can keep air away from the bolt can do the trick I guess. Also it should be a substance that can last without the need of reapplication and furthermore it shouldn't reduce friction considerably for safety reasons, because we probably don't want a bolt to get loose.

Those are my main goals. Specificity is not really a problem.
 
Stainless steel fasteners . And either heavy grease or , maybe , even , wax ( thinking of Johnson Paste Wax ) .

When removing rusty fasteners , heat to dull red hot & then spray with your favorite penetrating oil . Repeat as needed . Try turning the fastener back and forth , a little at a time .

Best of luck to you .
 
Oh okay. For me, specifically preventing corrosion was my goal since the idea of one of the bolts snapping off in a blind hole was pretty much a nightmare scenario.

And it's not just air you're keeping away it is moisture too. You want something that resists washout very well and the coating I mentioned is specifically for that application. That's not the primary goal of an anti-seize compound.
 
Originally Posted by inquirer
Originally Posted by Trav
The greases do not contain the metallic particles. There are anti seize compounds that are non metallic that use other substances like graphite to prevent fastener seizure.
Yes anti seize has lubricating properties and torque should be reduced by roughly 20% when tightening, on large diameter fasteners is not really an issue.


So which type is best for steel bolts?

By the way what do you mean torque should be reduced by 20% when tightening? That an anti-seize would have as a result less friction after tightening the bolt or that less torque should be used as the target torque of tightening by the mechanic?

Originally Posted by Bailes1992
Can you get Krown T40 in Greece? Might be worth dipping a nut and bolt into a tub of Krown before installation and then giving them a light spray once a year or so.


I'm afraid that's not available either. I just saw that Loctite has anti-seizes too, so maybe that's a respectable solution. Anyway, I'm most concerned about finding the best type for the situation and I'll see what brands I can find that fulfill my requirements.


Use a nickel anti seize and torque 20% less eg 100nm is spec tighten to 80nm.
 
This thread has made me do some research into the subject of grease. It's certainly something I don't look into too much, I usually just buy a pot of grease that says it's suitable for my application i.e. if it says it's suitable for CV joints and I'm packing out a CV joint then I'll use it.

It seems a Calcium Sulfonate grease it superior for keeping water out and corrosion protection. Look for a marine specific grease.
 
Originally Posted by WyrTwister
Stainless steel fasteners . And either heavy grease or , maybe , even , wax ( thinking of Johnson Paste Wax ) .

When removing rusty fasteners , heat to dull red hot & then spray with your favorite penetrating oil . Repeat as needed . Try turning the fastener back and forth , a little at a time .

Best of luck to you .


Stainless steel bolts was the first thing it came to my mind. The bolts the car uses are Class 10 (metric system). If you check the 2nd table you'll see that stainless steel does not even much Class 8 in strength, so it's out of the question.
Thanks for the suggestions, by the way!


Originally Posted by kschachn
Oh okay. For me, specifically preventing corrosion was my goal since the idea of one of the bolts snapping off in a blind hole was pretty much a nightmare scenario.

And it's not just air you're keeping away it is moisture too. You want something that resists washout very well and the coating I mentioned is specifically for that application. That's not the primary goal of an anti-seize compound.


Of course for me preventing corrosion is the no 1 goal too. What I mean is that I don't seek a product that is specifically marketed for that purpose. Any other product that fulfills my requirements it's acceptable for me. For example if threadlockers prevent rusting, then I would happily buy one as they additionally offer security.


Originally Posted by Trav
Use a nickel anti seize and torque 20% less eg 100nm is spec tighten to 80nm.


thanks for the info. 2nd best suggestion maybe (because nickel products are indeed pricey)?


Originally Posted by Bailes1992
This thread has made me do some research into the subject of grease. It's certainly something I don't look into too much, I usually just buy a pot of grease that says it's suitable for my application i.e. if it says it's suitable for CV joints and I'm packing out a CV joint then I'll use it.

It seems a Calcium Sulfonate grease it superior for keeping water out and corrosion protection. Look for a marine specific grease.


Thanks for brining marine greases to my attention. I will definitely check them. If they can deal with salt water, then I guess they are of excellent quality for road use.
 
Maybe coat the fasteners with boiled linseed oil, let cure, install, brush once more with linseed oil to touch up where you chipped the coating during installation. Not sure how a cured linseed oil coating affects required torque. I have used this method successfully on lower engine cover fasteners that tend to rust like crazy. I'm talking about clip-on nuts and screws.
 
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