"Best" transmission fluid (non-syn.).

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midwest
Penzoil Mercon/DexronIII
Supertech ...
Valvoline...
Valvoline Maxlife ...
Castrol ...
AAMCO ...

Of the choices listed above, which one would be the "best"? Or does it even matter?
 
You didn't give much information, which is a problem when recommending anything. What car, how many miles, driving situation, etc.

I assume the transmission is an automatic, since you listed ATF fluids.

What is your criteria for "best?" Price?

Gee people, give us more info!
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Oops...
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Sorry, I thought this was one of those numbers, where brand by itself would matter (kind of like "Fram oil fiters = junk" line of thought).

Anyhow, the applications are as follows:

1995 Mitsubishi Galant, 2.5L I-4, 140,000 miles, 90-95% of the time driven on the highway (shortest trip being about 30 miles one way). Ambient temperatures range from as low as 15-20 degrees in the winter, to as high as 100 degrees in the summer. A little over a month ago trans. started slipping out of overdrive. Filter and fluid change (3rd in the last year) seemed to correct the problem, but I quit using OD anyway. Chilton's manual says to use Mercon/Dexron III (currently has Maxlife in it). I was wondering if it would be better off with OE fluid in it.

1995 Ford F-150, 5.0L V-8, 135,000 miles, driven mostly in town (5-6 miles one way), occasional highway miles. No apparent problems. Currently has Maxlife in the 4R70W tranny.

1998 Mazda 626, 2.5L V6, 112,000 miles. Mix of city/highway miles (trips range from 2 to 15 miles one way). Maxlife in the tranny also. No apparent problems at this time. However, it seems like the trannys in these vehicles run way too hot (crappy, tiny OE trans. cooler). I have seen recommendations of doing a complete flush every 10-12K miles. Therefore, a synthetic would be a waste of money here (supposedly).

As far as criteria...
Price seems to be within $2-$3.50 a quart for these fluids, so that's not much of an issue. What I was wondering about were such characteristics as shudder protection, oxidation resistance, etc.
You know those questions regarding "best" dino oil? Well, this is a "best" dino tranny fluid question.
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What made me wonder about this, was a comment T-Keith made in another thread regarding Maxlife in his car turning black after 10K miles, and Chevron ATF staying a nice pink color in the same transmission during the same interval (or something along those lines). Would there be any difference between tranny fluids of different brands, or are they all pretty much the same, since they meet Mercon/Dexron spec?
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It's not one of the choices, but Chevron DexIII/Mercon is the one I would choose. I used it on my 1993 Explorer and it works great. Can't complain about the price either at 69 cents per quart at Checker.
 
I wondered the same thing. When I asked my trans builder who built my performance 200 4R, he recommended, Valvo, Mobil, and Conoco.
 
Why non-syn? Synthetic can be a money saver for both fluid life and transmission life. Because of the cost of a full change, oil analysis of transmission fluid makes sense (and cents).

And, depending on the fluid requirements of your transmission, there may be only a few choices available or maybe only dealership ATF. DaimlerChrylser ATF+4, Ford Mercon-SP, Volvo or VW's own, are a few examples. (Schaeffer or Amsoil "recommended" for +4, OEM only for Mercon-SP, Redline D4 for Volvo & VW.)


Ken
 
Best Non-synthetic would be Chevron IMHO. It uses their Iso-syn Group II base oils, and seems to work well in all my cars. I've had very bad luck with Valvoline Maxlife.


-T
 
quote:

Originally posted by T-Keith:
Best Non-synthetic would be Chevron IMHO. It uses their Iso-syn Group II base oils, and seems to work well in all my cars. I've had very bad luck with Valvoline Maxlife.


-T


I'm gonna second this....I believe the Chevron GroupII base oil ATFs are a superior product to other non-synthetic ATFs and the cost is cheap. Also, I have talked to enough high performance tranny builders that have told me that they don't see any real advantage with synthetics when run in their trannies. With that said, I figure a cheap and good ATF like Chevron is the way to go.

Hammer
 
Well, looks like parts stores in this area do not carry Chevron ATF. Does anybody know any place to get it online besides usahardware.com (on this site it comes out to about $3.50 a quart)?
 
quote:

Originally posted by Russ:
Well, looks like parts stores in this area do not carry Chevron ATF. Does anybody know any place to get it online besides usahardware.com (on this site it comes out to about $3.50 a quart)?

I have to get mine from the local Chevron Distributer himself...ends up around $1.30 I think. I'm sure if you can find a local Chevron Distributor in your yellow pages.

Hammer
 
quote:

Originally posted by Russ:
...1995 Mitsubishi Galant, 2.5L I-4, ... slipping out of overdrive ... Chilton's manual says to use Mercon/Dexron III...

Chilton manuals usually cover several model years of a given make and model. I could be wrong, but I'd be surprised to learn your owner's manual spec'd any flavor DEXRON for that recent a trannie. I'd be more inclined to believe ATF+3 or SP II (now superceded to SP III as service backfill - and only available through Mitsubishi, Hyundai*, and Kia* dealerships). If I'm right (and I'll concede that could be a big "if" since I don't have access to a 1995 Mitsubishi Galant owner's manual), it might at least partially explain the loss of 4th gear OD.

(Hyundai and Kia will flat out deny a warranty claim if there's evidence DEXRON was used in Hyundai automatic transmissions from 1996 on.)
 
Chilton's manual is for 90-00 Galant/Diamante/Mirage.
Alldata manual calls for SP II.
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I don't even know if OD is "lost". It was slipping mostly when cold. Fluid and filter change seemed to cure the problem (wouldn't slip out right away, I didn't want to push it for extended periods of time, so I don't know how it would act in the long run).
 
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