I tell everyone we rebuild for to drive it normally full throttles are fine however dont hit red line
Best Practice: Breaking in a new engine
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Originally Posted By: Clevy
If you want a weak motor break it in weak.
Surprisingly succinct and quite accurate. Too easy and you'll likely have an oil burner with more blow by. This means lower performance and an engine that will coke the rings quicker and die sooner.
Either the rotating assembly is right or wrong, no reason to baby a new engine at all, what still needs 'breaking in' is driveline parts. Higher gears and larger throttle openings for a good running long lasting engine!
If you want a weak motor break it in weak.
Surprisingly succinct and quite accurate. Too easy and you'll likely have an oil burner with more blow by. This means lower performance and an engine that will coke the rings quicker and die sooner.
Either the rotating assembly is right or wrong, no reason to baby a new engine at all, what still needs 'breaking in' is driveline parts. Higher gears and larger throttle openings for a good running long lasting engine!
Originally Posted By: EricG
He makes some good points in this article, take a little of everyone's advice. There is no one "right" way for every application!
http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm
It was only a matter of time before this guy showed up.
He makes some good points in this article, take a little of everyone's advice. There is no one "right" way for every application!
http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm
It was only a matter of time before this guy showed up.
Originally Posted By: SteveSRT8
Originally Posted By: Clevy
If you want a weak motor break it in weak.
Surprisingly succinct and quite accurate. Too easy and you'll likely have an oil burner with more blow by. This means lower performance and an engine that will coke the rings quicker and die sooner.
Either the rotating assembly is right or wrong, no reason to baby a new engine at all, what still needs 'breaking in' is driveline parts. Higher gears and larger throttle openings for a good running long lasting engine!
I use varied break in. No beating until 3000. When I say beating...I mean repeated redline in all the gears..Italian tune up beating.
Originally Posted By: Clevy
If you want a weak motor break it in weak.
Surprisingly succinct and quite accurate. Too easy and you'll likely have an oil burner with more blow by. This means lower performance and an engine that will coke the rings quicker and die sooner.
Either the rotating assembly is right or wrong, no reason to baby a new engine at all, what still needs 'breaking in' is driveline parts. Higher gears and larger throttle openings for a good running long lasting engine!
I use varied break in. No beating until 3000. When I say beating...I mean repeated redline in all the gears..Italian tune up beating.
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Originally Posted By: SteveSRT8
Originally Posted By: Clevy
If you want a weak motor break it in weak.
Surprisingly succinct and quite accurate. Too easy and you'll likely have an oil burner with more blow by. This means lower performance and an engine that will coke the rings quicker and die sooner.
This is what my grandpa told me too, and I don't believe this holds any truth at all for cars made in the past 20 years or so. In the bad old days of design and manufacturing, maybe. But those days have been gone for some time.
Originally Posted By: Clevy
If you want a weak motor break it in weak.
Surprisingly succinct and quite accurate. Too easy and you'll likely have an oil burner with more blow by. This means lower performance and an engine that will coke the rings quicker and die sooner.
This is what my grandpa told me too, and I don't believe this holds any truth at all for cars made in the past 20 years or so. In the bad old days of design and manufacturing, maybe. But those days have been gone for some time.
Originally Posted By: JethroBodine
Originally Posted By: EricG
He makes some good points in this article, take a little of everyone's advice. There is no one "right" way for every application!
http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm
It was only a matter of time before this guy showed up.
Yep, his long and successful racing career gives him a lot of credibility. The facts also support his conclusions.
My owners manual specifically states that full throttle is beneficial to engine break in. That in no way implies that you must drop the clutch and hammer it till the rev limiter, just that higher gears and larger throttle openings help to seat low tension ring designs that are prevalent today.
Originally Posted By: EricG
He makes some good points in this article, take a little of everyone's advice. There is no one "right" way for every application!
http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm
It was only a matter of time before this guy showed up.
Yep, his long and successful racing career gives him a lot of credibility. The facts also support his conclusions.
My owners manual specifically states that full throttle is beneficial to engine break in. That in no way implies that you must drop the clutch and hammer it till the rev limiter, just that higher gears and larger throttle openings help to seat low tension ring designs that are prevalent today.
I have always done the hard but not to fast method. Seems to work for me.
No car ever used oil either.
I remember her Rabbit, the first thing I did was hit the looong interstate ramp and ran through the gears manually.
No car ever used oil either.
I remember her Rabbit, the first thing I did was hit the looong interstate ramp and ran through the gears manually.
Company I work for just bought 3 brand new Honda CRV & I recommended that do not baby the engine, just drive it fairly hard after warm up so the oil rings could be properly seated.
Needless to say, none of the company drivers agree with me & thinks that I don't know what I'm talking about.
One even made a comment that a brand new engine should be kept under 3000 rpm until completely broken in !!
I'v always driven my new vehicles hard in order to have the rings seated properly, and til this day haven't had an engine w/ any oil consumption issue.
Needless to say, none of the company drivers agree with me & thinks that I don't know what I'm talking about.
One even made a comment that a brand new engine should be kept under 3000 rpm until completely broken in !!
I'v always driven my new vehicles hard in order to have the rings seated properly, and til this day haven't had an engine w/ any oil consumption issue.
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Depends on the car. I followed the advice in my manual, which was to vary the speeds and avoid WOT for a while. It was also specific that the first oil change was to be at exactly 3000 miles regardless of what conditions the car encountered. I managed to do it at exactly 3000 miles by driving it around my neighborhood enough to take it into my garage right on the magic number.
Still - some engines are manufactured differently. Some are bench tested before dropping into the car. Ferrari bench tests every engine before it goes under the hood. I'm not surprised considering how much they cost.
http://www.ferrari.com/English/about_fer...embly_area.aspx
Quote:
The Engine Assembly technology area is where all the components of Ferrari's V8 and V12 engines are assembled prior to being bench-tested.
The Engine Assembly Team assembles the 8- and 12-cylinder engines on three lines: one for the V8 unit, one for the V12 and a third for the V12's gearbox. Each engine is assembled by a single craftsman using electronic wrenches which certify all the individual torque settings used.
After assembly, each complete engine is carried by special, high-speed conveyor units to one of the seven test beds, where they undergo dynamic hot running tests to verify that they conform to specifications. The tests performed include the all-important emissions tests (by chemical analysis of gas from the exhausts), which take account of the standards imposed in different markets.
Still - some engines are manufactured differently. Some are bench tested before dropping into the car. Ferrari bench tests every engine before it goes under the hood. I'm not surprised considering how much they cost.
http://www.ferrari.com/English/about_fer...embly_area.aspx
Quote:
The Engine Assembly technology area is where all the components of Ferrari's V8 and V12 engines are assembled prior to being bench-tested.
The Engine Assembly Team assembles the 8- and 12-cylinder engines on three lines: one for the V8 unit, one for the V12 and a third for the V12's gearbox. Each engine is assembled by a single craftsman using electronic wrenches which certify all the individual torque settings used.
After assembly, each complete engine is carried by special, high-speed conveyor units to one of the seven test beds, where they undergo dynamic hot running tests to verify that they conform to specifications. The tests performed include the all-important emissions tests (by chemical analysis of gas from the exhausts), which take account of the standards imposed in different markets.
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