What is the best Power Steering Fluid for my '98 Suzuki Sidekick? This BITOG Forum has all the best info on Motor Oil, but there's not much info on Power Steering Fluid.
Best Power Steering Fluid?
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Flush the entire system clean and refill with a good brand name fluid...that's the best for your ride
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Does it take Power steering fluid or ATF? I really like RP Max EZ PS fluid and valvoline synpower seems to work pretty well.
sbc350 gearhead, it definitely takes only Power Steering Fluid and not ATF. I have a bottle of Redline PS Fluid handy, but I do not know if it is absolutely the best, so I came into BITOG to ask you automobile freaks in here.
My goodness, Jelly. "flush...." that sounds like too involved for my taste. I would do a flush for a brake system, and even then, I have not done a brake line flush in almost 10 years. Flush for a Power Steering system? I don't think so. I'm getting lazy in my old age!!!!!!quote:
Originally posted by Jelly:
Flush the entire system clean and refill with a good brand name fluid...that's the best for your ride.
I am sure that the redline is excellent.......just kind of expensive.
sbc my friend, Redline is Excellent.....on this, there is almost 100% concensus amongst the BITOG bulletin board pollsters. But 'excellent' does not necessarily mean it'll last for years and years. Case in point, I just (last week) changed my gearbox oil and transfer case oil over to Redline MT-90, but I doubt the Redline will last as long as the factory fill, which has been in since new in my 4.9 year old automobile. I guess I am only looking for something which I can pour in, and then forget for the next 4 or 5 years.....the Shaeffer's Supreme 267 80w-90, which also replaced the Factory Fill in my Front and Rear differentials last week, is one lubricant that I believe fills the bill.quote:
Originally posted by sbc350gearhead:
I am sure that the redline is excellent.......just kind of expensive.
Most people do not ever change their PS fluid and it stills lasts the life of their vehicle. I am sure any of the synthetics would fit your application. PS fluid just doesn't endure alot of stress except in a racing application.
Thanks sbc350 my man. I will just pour in that bottle of Redline PS Fluid then. It has been a long time since I opened a PS Fluid reservoir for a look see. I think it was in 1995-1996 when I had a Ford Bronco 351 v-8. I used Castrol PS Fluid then, but you can't find that anywhere these days.....I think Castrol stopped making it. Yup, that old 351......had many "happy moments" with it (sarcastic) until I got rid of it in 1998.
Sorry for my first sarcastic post...I just think that if given the choice, even though PS fluid is in a low stress/sealed environment, I'd take an entire system full of new fluid than a system full of old stuff (although still servicable) with a little really good synthetic added on.
With that said, you'll be absolutely just fine.
With that said, you'll be absolutely just fine.
This guy reckons the Redline PSF made a heap of difference, but hes donig Auto-Xs so I dont know how much of a difference it would make to in a grocery hauler!
http://www.se-r.net/engine/replace_steering_fluid.html
http://www.se-r.net/engine/replace_steering_fluid.html
No offence taken, Jelly.
If you'll conduct a search you'll indeed find discussion of PS Fluid.
As to which is best, my opinion is that what the manufacturer recommends is best, ATF or non-ATF and to stick with that. There is a post somewhere that -- after working at a shop rebuilding PS gear -- one contributor indicated that ATF would "work" but degrade seals faster than spec'd PS fluid.
I got tired of PS leaks on old cars (nasty-looking stuff), have used both LC and ARX to rejuvenate seals and had some good success. But I'd rather not have to.
I installed an auxiliary trans cooler and Magnefine filter on the JEEP this summer, and went ahead and got a PS cooler and second Magnefine cooler for that system. Both systems have been changed twice in the last 28-mos/60k miles and an ARX service per directions was performed.
(Mounted PS cooler directly behind a thick grill piece that blocks most direct flow; as with below, if UOA doesn't look great, then will install thermostat. B&M trans cooler was installed directly in flow path of mechanical fan; it has provisions to bypass cold fluid).
Mounted the filters down low so that flushing was easy. Will go one year and UOA both system fluids and replace filters for a second run if everything looks good on the #204s Dexron and Redline PS fluid. (And, no, Jeep doesn't recommend an ATF fluid -- and Redline is spec'd such -- but I'm giving it a shot anyway. If I was wrong, then back to JEEP spec fluid).
As to only racing being hard on PS fluid, guess again. Every time you tow, carry an extra-heavy load, or are doing slow-speed manuevering -- especially in hot weather with AC on -- it doesn't take much lock-to-lock wheel action to severely degrade this fluid.
Annual changes, as with brake fluid, just make sense. Take the time to make it easy (a drain valve, a filter replacement) and it is more likely to be done. Otherwise it'll take 3-4 times with a suction gun (gets old) and is more likely to be put off.
[ October 25, 2003, 12:12 AM: Message edited by: TheTanSedan ]
As to which is best, my opinion is that what the manufacturer recommends is best, ATF or non-ATF and to stick with that. There is a post somewhere that -- after working at a shop rebuilding PS gear -- one contributor indicated that ATF would "work" but degrade seals faster than spec'd PS fluid.
I got tired of PS leaks on old cars (nasty-looking stuff), have used both LC and ARX to rejuvenate seals and had some good success. But I'd rather not have to.
I installed an auxiliary trans cooler and Magnefine filter on the JEEP this summer, and went ahead and got a PS cooler and second Magnefine cooler for that system. Both systems have been changed twice in the last 28-mos/60k miles and an ARX service per directions was performed.
(Mounted PS cooler directly behind a thick grill piece that blocks most direct flow; as with below, if UOA doesn't look great, then will install thermostat. B&M trans cooler was installed directly in flow path of mechanical fan; it has provisions to bypass cold fluid).
Mounted the filters down low so that flushing was easy. Will go one year and UOA both system fluids and replace filters for a second run if everything looks good on the #204s Dexron and Redline PS fluid. (And, no, Jeep doesn't recommend an ATF fluid -- and Redline is spec'd such -- but I'm giving it a shot anyway. If I was wrong, then back to JEEP spec fluid).
As to only racing being hard on PS fluid, guess again. Every time you tow, carry an extra-heavy load, or are doing slow-speed manuevering -- especially in hot weather with AC on -- it doesn't take much lock-to-lock wheel action to severely degrade this fluid.
Annual changes, as with brake fluid, just make sense. Take the time to make it easy (a drain valve, a filter replacement) and it is more likely to be done. Otherwise it'll take 3-4 times with a suction gun (gets old) and is more likely to be put off.
[ October 25, 2003, 12:12 AM: Message edited by: TheTanSedan ]
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