I cannot advise you to drive the car with Amsoil engine flush. I know the fellows are recommending a much lighter dose and driving, but still - I'm not saying it will harm anything, but it's not really been tested.
Best oil to clean sludge ?
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It's already being cleaned as evidenced by the crud inside the filter... At this point you want to proceed slowly, if it all breaks loose at once you'll likely have a oil pan full of sludge and a clogged pickup screen...
I'm never going to believe one of today's SN oils is that much better than the others for cleaning... They all have keep ring lands clean which means they are going to have strong detergents, I'd use a quality dino for a maybe 2K and change filters at 1K...
I'm never going to believe one of today's SN oils is that much better than the others for cleaning... They all have keep ring lands clean which means they are going to have strong detergents, I'd use a quality dino for a maybe 2K and change filters at 1K...
Originally Posted By: MetalSlug
I think you on the right track of using pennzoil . And I would keep using pennzoil no need to switch to amsoil. Mobil 1 HM 5w30 is also another fine choice for that many miles engine.
+ 1
I think you on the right track of using pennzoil . And I would keep using pennzoil no need to switch to amsoil. Mobil 1 HM 5w30 is also another fine choice for that many miles engine.
+ 1
I think I would either use PP or PZHM. PZHM says it cleans up to 40% of sludge in the first use.
I use it from time to time in my vehicles just in case there is any hidden sludge build up and when I get a new used vehicle (you never know how good it was ACTUALLY taken care of).
I use it from time to time in my vehicles just in case there is any hidden sludge build up and when I get a new used vehicle (you never know how good it was ACTUALLY taken care of).
Originally Posted By: JRed
Save the Ultra for after the engine is cleaned up. Go buy some Pennzoil Yellow Bottle or some 10w-30 HDEO (Rotella, etc.) if you're planning to change the oil every 3,000 miles or less.
+1. Short changes with PYB or HDEO will work great.
Save the Ultra for after the engine is cleaned up. Go buy some Pennzoil Yellow Bottle or some 10w-30 HDEO (Rotella, etc.) if you're planning to change the oil every 3,000 miles or less.
+1. Short changes with PYB or HDEO will work great.
there is no way i could drive with Amsoil flush in it. that would make me crazier than i already am about this stuff.
I have been using syn since 2005 in everything i own so i just cant go back to dino oil. leaning pretty heavily on using Pennzoil Ultra 5w30 and plan to change filter at 1000 mile intervals and change oil at 2-3K intervals based on what the filters look like.
the guy i bought it from gave me 6 PF52's so i have been alternating between Purolator Pure One's. is there a better filter i should be using in my situation?
I have been using syn since 2005 in everything i own so i just cant go back to dino oil. leaning pretty heavily on using Pennzoil Ultra 5w30 and plan to change filter at 1000 mile intervals and change oil at 2-3K intervals based on what the filters look like.
the guy i bought it from gave me 6 PF52's so i have been alternating between Purolator Pure One's. is there a better filter i should be using in my situation?
PU is simply awesome with great cleaning potential.
VWB seems to clean quite well also.
Continue using PU if you have the money and change it every 3K. I'd just change the filter every 1K and top off until you hit 3K.
if you really want to flush the gunk out, just use an engine flush, drop the oil pan after running it through, give it about 30-40 mins to run down into the pan, and drop the pan, clean the pickup screen.
Otherwise, i would reccomend quaker state ultimate durability, for the price you cannot get much better, or if you can find it 10W30 HDEO.
Before i used QSUD i dumped 1/2 a bottle of MMO and drove 30 mi, oil came out pitch black, the QSUD has not gone dirty yet, just darkened.
Otherwise, i would reccomend quaker state ultimate durability, for the price you cannot get much better, or if you can find it 10W30 HDEO.
Before i used QSUD i dumped 1/2 a bottle of MMO and drove 30 mi, oil came out pitch black, the QSUD has not gone dirty yet, just darkened.
From what I've seen MMO will indeed slowly dissolve sludge, which is a safe way to do it IMO. I'm not keen on shock treatments. Cleaning an already dirty engine with oil alone seems to take forever, even though todays oils are excellent at keeping a clean engine clean.
Originally Posted By: JRed
Save the Ultra for after the engine is cleaned up. Go buy some Pennzoil Yellow Bottle or some 10w-30 HDEO (Rotella, etc.) if you're planning to change the oil every 3,000 miles or less.
+2
Save the Ultra for after the engine is cleaned up. Go buy some Pennzoil Yellow Bottle or some 10w-30 HDEO (Rotella, etc.) if you're planning to change the oil every 3,000 miles or less.
+2
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Originally Posted By: KCJeep
From what I've seen MMO will indeed slowly dissolve sludge, which is a safe way to do it IMO.
I have been contemplating topping off with some MMO shortly before my next oil change. My concern was it would clean too well and dislodge some heavier particulates, but if it does in fact slowly dissolve the solids I would feel much more at ease adding some to the oil.
From what I've seen MMO will indeed slowly dissolve sludge, which is a safe way to do it IMO.
I have been contemplating topping off with some MMO shortly before my next oil change. My concern was it would clean too well and dislodge some heavier particulates, but if it does in fact slowly dissolve the solids I would feel much more at ease adding some to the oil.
Originally Posted By: Cooker
Originally Posted By: KCJeep
From what I've seen MMO will indeed slowly dissolve sludge, which is a safe way to do it IMO.
I have been contemplating topping off with some MMO shortly before my next oil change. My concern was it would clean too well and dislodge some heavier particulates, but if it does in fact slowly dissolve the solids I would feel much more at ease adding some to the oil.
MMO is slow, but it's a faster cleaner than oil alone in my experience. A nice compromise. It is thin however, you need to compensate for that on the front end when you choose your oil if you're going to use it in any quantity, small amounts no problem. I believe mixes of 10-15% are about ideal.
Originally Posted By: KCJeep
From what I've seen MMO will indeed slowly dissolve sludge, which is a safe way to do it IMO.
I have been contemplating topping off with some MMO shortly before my next oil change. My concern was it would clean too well and dislodge some heavier particulates, but if it does in fact slowly dissolve the solids I would feel much more at ease adding some to the oil.
MMO is slow, but it's a faster cleaner than oil alone in my experience. A nice compromise. It is thin however, you need to compensate for that on the front end when you choose your oil if you're going to use it in any quantity, small amounts no problem. I believe mixes of 10-15% are about ideal.
Originally Posted By: KCJeep
Originally Posted By: Cooker
Originally Posted By: KCJeep
From what I've seen MMO will indeed slowly dissolve sludge, which is a safe way to do it IMO.
I have been contemplating topping off with some MMO shortly before my next oil change. My concern was it would clean too well and dislodge some heavier particulates, but if it does in fact slowly dissolve the solids I would feel much more at ease adding some to the oil.
MMO is slow, but it's a faster cleaner than oil alone in my experience. A nice compromise. It is thin however, you need to compensate for that on the front end when you choose your oil if you're going to use it in any quantity, small amounts no problem. I believe mixes of 10-15% are about ideal.
In a 4.5-5 oil pan 1/2 of the small bottle is more than enough for a 20 mi til oil change clean. it is not too much nor is it too little.
Also, as the v8 you have is an older design, like my 3.0 V6, just use plain dino oil as it is not a high performance engine, only reason i went with QSUD was to see how well the engine liked it, and to see how dirty it would become with that oil after doing MMO. it was an experiment, after 1,000 mi on the prior dino it was almost black, now it is still golden. I feel comfortable doing 5k on a good dino with this engine now.
Originally Posted By: Cooker
Originally Posted By: KCJeep
From what I've seen MMO will indeed slowly dissolve sludge, which is a safe way to do it IMO.
I have been contemplating topping off with some MMO shortly before my next oil change. My concern was it would clean too well and dislodge some heavier particulates, but if it does in fact slowly dissolve the solids I would feel much more at ease adding some to the oil.
MMO is slow, but it's a faster cleaner than oil alone in my experience. A nice compromise. It is thin however, you need to compensate for that on the front end when you choose your oil if you're going to use it in any quantity, small amounts no problem. I believe mixes of 10-15% are about ideal.
In a 4.5-5 oil pan 1/2 of the small bottle is more than enough for a 20 mi til oil change clean. it is not too much nor is it too little.
Also, as the v8 you have is an older design, like my 3.0 V6, just use plain dino oil as it is not a high performance engine, only reason i went with QSUD was to see how well the engine liked it, and to see how dirty it would become with that oil after doing MMO. it was an experiment, after 1,000 mi on the prior dino it was almost black, now it is still golden. I feel comfortable doing 5k on a good dino with this engine now.
With that much sludge in the engine I would use a larger oil filter if it will fit, like the Baldwin B7 or Wix 51794 both are 2 qt. oil filters and will hold a lot more sludge than the 1 qt. filter that you have now. The Baldwin B7 is about 1" longer than the Wix filter.
http://www.wixfilters.com/filterlookup/PartDetail.asp?Part=51794
ROD
http://www.wixfilters.com/filterlookup/PartDetail.asp?Part=51794
ROD
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the WIX looked really tempting but just read it does not have ADBV so cant use it in my 4x4.
If your filter is "base up" like most other S/B and B/B GM engines that I've seen you don't need a ADBV.
I ran that Wix till I found out that the Baldwin was larger on my '89 SCCA Camaro.
ROD
I ran that Wix till I found out that the Baldwin was larger on my '89 SCCA Camaro.
ROD
its horizontal, i would have to have ADBV.
LOL I don't know if I would want a 2 qt. filter on a engine that came off the side of the block. Lot of weight out at the end of the filter.
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