Best detergant oil

[HTSS_TR]

Originally Posted By: Artem
Originally Posted By: ac_tc

You may start with a "flush" run the cheapest oil you can find
for half an hour and dump it.


Half an hour won't do anything, to be honest with you. I've ran dedicated engine cleaners for 20 mins with directions of idling for 10-15 mins and pulled the valve cover again after having new oil in the engine for a few days and the results between pulling the valve cover before the idle flush were literally ZERO.

Caked, burnt on varnish and other grime needs a lot of time to come off. A powerful cleaner needs to be flowing through the system for a week or two (300-500 miles) with normal driving and a decent amount of WOT (Wide Open Throttle) runs to redline or close to really build up some heat and oil pressure and have the oil spray everywhere.

I'd do that as a first flush with a cheap conventional oil and filter.

I used Lubegard engine flush with reduce dosage of 1/2 oz per quart of oil in my E430 last year, the sump capacity is 8 qt so I used 4 oz. I did the blot test before and after adding engine flush.

My wife drove to car to work the next day and I changed the oil when she came home, the total mileage was 50 miles with 60% highway. The blot test after engine flush was almost black while the one before was dark brown. The oil came out was much blacker than all previous oil changes.

If engine has sludge or heavy vanish then the dosage may be increased to 1 oz engine flush per quart, drive at normal speed for 50-100 miles will clean better than full bottle and idle for 15-20 minutes.

 

[91344George]

Like others said here....use a quality High Detergent Oil like Shell Rotella T5 ....

I don't understand why people here don't comprehend what the OP said to begin with....he doesn't want to do anything to drastic, so that would mean no seafoam, MMO, or the like.

What he needs is a quality oil with high detergent, period.

Bottom line is if the engine has been reasonably taken care of with regular oil changes then there is really NO need to put anything in the crankcase EXCEPT a good oil.

 

[ltslimjim]

From what the OP most recently posted:

Originally Posted By: mbaker
Im prob not gonna do anythign special at this point, prob just pick and oil and run some short intervals to flush out anything we may have loosened when we did the intake change. Otherwise I plan on driving this thing for a little while then sell it anyway. It was more of a fixer upper to start with.


ltslimjim,
I registered long ago, followed and read many threads, just never posted.
Its not really slimy or anything, just black discolored and kind of grainy between your fingers. Under the intake was a little worse, looked like some sediment in the lifter valley, but still black and all discolored. I shop vacced much of it out though as I tried to clean up any spilled coolant.


It seems he is dealing with is lots of deposits that have sat for a while, not necessarily full on sludge/caked on globs etc.

If he is to run a full synthetic, no additives needed while driving, IMO.

I have not used Lubegard's Engine Flush, but personally would like to try their engine oil additives after success with their 'red' bottle for transmissions(off topic).

A great idea is to clean the top-end with a spray in foam cleaner before a couple of oil changes, keep intervals short either with dino/syn/HDEO or whatever combo even if additives are used eventually while driving.

IMO, regular oil changes with some top-end foam cleaner + idle flushes would help reduce deposits over time. Not slimy, and not caked on? He's G2G on shorter intervals for the 10,000-20,000 miles it's going to take anyway. Afterward, it's all discoloration.

Also, check the PCV valve and PCV system(hoses etc) for any blockage. Use OE/dealer part for PCV valve replacement. Does this engine have a MAF? If so that makes using a top-end foam cleaner harder to use(I actually spray it in via vacuum tubing that connects to the IM past the MAF in those apps OR ones that go to the valve cover(of course ones to the VC won't have as much vacuum so raising idle slightly(keeping it under 1,500 RPMs) is enough to encourage ingestion via vacuum tubes to Valce Cover. Spraying in via PCV or hose once pulled from the IM(make sure its not to the bottom end or a booster line, but only towards the cylinder head area).

Also, piston soaking with something like Kreen would be advisable as far as helping oil consumption. After cleaning, I'd try switching to a High Mileage oil for a while then go from there(of course that's 2-3 years from now depending on mileage/year etc).