Best brake pads and rotor for durability

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Who carries the best brake pads for durability. These will go onto the rear. My OEM pads (front and rear) went past 100k miles and the front pads were replaced about 6 months ago. I want to do the rear now myself instead of having someone else do it.

Vehicle is 02 Honda Accord V6. My goal is to have long lasting pads and since this is for the rear, stopping performance needs not be the best. My main goal is to have something that will last another 100k miles so I won't have to worry about it for 5 or so years more.

Additionally, is there any tips on changing the pads? How do I know my rotors need replacement? Who carries long lasting rotors?

I thought about getting it to the shop but I don't trust any shop after my state inspection dilemma with my Bronco. In this economy, people get desperate and greedy. It would be my pleasure to watch them starved as the result.

Thanks.
 
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I have had good luck with Raybestos advanced technology pads and rotors. I am not going to go cheap on brakes, not that these are too expensive. If you are not getting pulsations under heavy braking, your rotors are fine. Just change the pads before you ruin the rotors with metal on metal.
 
I've got over 40K on Akebono Euro Ceramic pads and Powerslot rotors (front and back). About 2mm of wear to date...so, I am looking at pads that should go close to 100K, and with zero noise and dust and excellent stopping power. I am not easy on the car - lots of city traffic...Got them at Tire Rack and could not be happier.
 
Yeah, ceramic pads and rotors that have the hats and edges painted (like Napa premium).
 
Performance Friction carbon metallic really lasted for me, i just hated that they had to warm up before they would bite well. Especially in the winter. They were easy on rotors too. I got 70,000 on them and i'm not easy on brakes.
 
If you're cheap just do the pads. You seem to like the OE ones from their prior service. You can mic your current rotors to see if they're too thin.

I must be easy on brakes; had some real old pads rust and fall apart; the asbestos just jumped off the steel backing. Pedal went to the floor when that happened (but pumped back up.) You may be better off with midrange pads which you'll eventually replace, maybe, compared to some ultra long lasting thing which might be more appropriate for a taxi.
 
use the stock pads again!

why change a good thing

grease your slider pins and thebackside of the pads with some high quality grease(its not like you need it everyday so get the good stuff)

on the rear of a Honda like yours, you can get away with using the cheapest rotors you can find, I've had good luck with Autozone duralast rotors lately, they are a cheaper, lower quality rotor. If you want a high quality rotor I would get a Raybestos Advanced-Tech rotor....... You probably don't have to change your rotor at all though unless you had metal to metal or pulsation problems....

If you don't go with the factory pads........
I would recommend the Wagner Thermoqueits, Raybestos Advanced-Tech, or the Ceramic Akebono pads......
 
Originally Posted By: M1Accord
Who carries the best brake pads for durability. These will go onto the rear. My OEM pads (front and rear) went past 100k miles and the front pads were replaced about 6 months ago. I want to do the rear now myself instead of having someone else do it.

Vehicle is 02 Honda Accord V6. My goal is to have long lasting pads and since this is for the rear, stopping performance needs not be the best. My main goal is to have something that will last another 100k miles so I won't have to worry about it for 5 or so years more.

Right there ---> OEM pads
 
Originally Posted By: 38sho

on the rear of a Honda like yours, you can get away with using the cheapest rotors you can find, I've had good luck with Autozone duralast rotors lately, they are a cheaper, lower quality rotor.



I wouldnt. He wants 100k. THe cheap rotors may not have the metal protected properly, and so the non-friction surfaces will be prone to excessive rust.
 
Originally Posted By: spasm3
Performance Friction carbon metallic really lasted for me, i just hated that they had to warm up before they would bite well. Especially in the winter. They were easy on rotors too. I got 70,000 on them and i'm not easy on brakes.


I used these(Performance Friction/Carbon Metalic) on a Honda Accord and had to remove them as I couldn't stop the car until they got hot, and even when they got hot, they were only so-so!

The first stop of the day had to be planned. Got the PF carbon met's for a couple of bucks more than aftermarket stock pads so, I thought I'd give them a try. Kept them on for about 3 months and had enough!

Took them off and returned them to AutoZone and they were great about replaceing them with the pads that I should have gotten first. Even got some money back in return as the price difference was greater than when I first purchaced them. They [AZ] appologized, I was thankful!

I think the PFCM's are for oval track racing or similar because they're not for you everyday car. Wife and daughter hated them too!
 
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its honda, cheap maintain it will use any thing, OEM brake pad and autozone rotor. Or if your rotor still thick, get it turn, oreilly around here charge 5 dollar per rotor.
 
Originally Posted By: CamaroT56
its honda, cheap maintain it will use any thing, OEM brake pad and autozone rotor. Or if your rotor still thick, get it turn, oreilly around here charge 5 dollar per rotor.


At one time, if you bought pad/shoes from Advance Auto Parts, Pep Boys or Auto Zone, they would turn rotors/drums for FREE!
Only in stores where they had the equipment/lathe.

Because of all of the salt used here in the winter time, my rotots are so rusted, pitted, goudged, they can't be turned any longer so, I end up buying new ones.
 
Originally Posted By: Char Baby
Originally Posted By: CamaroT56
its honda, cheap maintain it will use any thing, OEM brake pad and autozone rotor. Or if your rotor still thick, get it turn, oreilly around here charge 5 dollar per rotor.


At one time, if you bought pad/shoes from Advance Auto Parts, Pep Boys or Auto Zone, they would turn rotors/drums for FREE!
Only in stores where they had the equipment/lathe.

Because of all of the salt used here in the winter time, my rotots are so rusted, pitted, goudged, they can't be turned any longer so, I end up buying new ones.


that pretty dam good deal !!
 
Tips? I know nothing about Hondas, but you may need a special tool to turn/compress the caliper pistons in. Many rears cannot be simply pushed in.

The tool can be borrowed at many big box auto stores (AZ) for free.

You Tube has many instructional videos.
 
Thanks for the response. Where do I get OEM pads? At stealership? I prefer getting things from auto part store where I wouldn't have to pay the 80% mark-up.
 
Originally Posted By: doitmyself


hmm, those pads seem to have A LOT of meat on them. OEMs starting to squeal at 4K? take it to the dealer and have them changed. $65 dollars saved
thumbsup2.gif


Originally Posted By: M1Accord
Thanks for the response. Where do I get OEM pads? At stealership? I prefer getting things from auto part store where I wouldn't have to pay the 80% mark-up.


just call up a local honda dealer, ask for the price.
see if you are willing to pay a premium for Honda pads.
 
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None of this '08+ OE rear brake pad problems (wearing out fast and squeaking) apply to the OP's car, but the '08+ as I remember it had a lawsuit and the settlement was a check that just barely payed parts cost for new upgraded design pads. It wasn't even as good as a recall, but Honda apparently refused to voluntarily recall and that's the nature of class action suits.

The video was pretty good, but I'd grease the front of the pad clips, not the anchor plate as shown in the video. This is also a case where those who advocate opening the bleed when retracting the caliper piston isn't practical.
 
Just priced out rotors for my 96 v6 Camry at O'reillys. They are around 34/each. My mechanic pretty much uses O'reilly's house rotors, and seems to have no issues with them.

Regarding pads, I've used the BrakeBest Select on previous cars, and they've been fine. I used to drive P/T for them, so the discount was nice (No allegiance... just a job).

The one brand of pads that my mechanic stays away from (and is quite vocal) are Wagner.
 
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