Battery Terminals ?
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I wouldn't spend a nickel on "gold plated" battery terminals.
I have replaced terminals when they become corroded, but I will only use those clamp-on replacement terminals in an emergency. When the terminal gets too corroded, I replace the whole cable. Not very easy, but clamp-on terminals have 2 points of possible failure instead of just 1.
I have replaced terminals when they become corroded, but I will only use those clamp-on replacement terminals in an emergency. When the terminal gets too corroded, I replace the whole cable. Not very easy, but clamp-on terminals have 2 points of possible failure instead of just 1.
Wrong section and i would use something else,tsunami make cheap audio product ,if you dont run any crazy aplication,sound system,hydrolic,winch or off road light just get replacement in any car part shop.
Gold connections of any kind are a waste of money.
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Originally Posted By: 440Magnum
I wouldn't spend a nickel on "gold plated" battery terminals.
I have replaced terminals when they become corroded, but I will only use those clamp-on replacement terminals in an emergency. When the terminal gets too corroded, I replace the whole cable. Not very easy, but clamp-on terminals have 2 points of possible failure instead of just 1.
+1, corrosion gets in and on every one of the hundreds of copper strands, then travels down inside the insulation wrecking the cable. If I did have to use under duress one I'd throw a huge glob of solder over everything, or carry a crescent wrench along forever to fix the inevitable.
Sure gold is a great conductor. Lead is a mediocre one. One is not adding very much to "the system" with that piece.
I wouldn't spend a nickel on "gold plated" battery terminals.
I have replaced terminals when they become corroded, but I will only use those clamp-on replacement terminals in an emergency. When the terminal gets too corroded, I replace the whole cable. Not very easy, but clamp-on terminals have 2 points of possible failure instead of just 1.
+1, corrosion gets in and on every one of the hundreds of copper strands, then travels down inside the insulation wrecking the cable. If I did have to use under duress one I'd throw a huge glob of solder over everything, or carry a crescent wrench along forever to fix the inevitable.
Sure gold is a great conductor. Lead is a mediocre one. One is not adding very much to "the system" with that piece.
Greasing the whole she-bang after making up the connection is a bit messy, but if you cut off the air to any exposed metal, it wont corrode. I used to grease the connections on -48 battery strings on the 200 amp rectifier racks I used to build and install for the phone company. It is just vaseline , but it works fine.
I replace mine with the clamp on brass ones. On some vehicles like the 94 Caravan I had the terminals on the cable were part of a assembly. It wasn't just a simple cable that you could replace. I believe that the battery places will cut the old ones off and crimp a new one on with a minimal charge which would probably be better. I've used wheel bearing grease and vaseline, but I've had better luck with a spray protector that I got from Walmart.
Since they went to side terminals years ago, I haven't had to replace one or even clean them very often.
I don't like add on battery terminals.
Noting is a good as a factory terminal on a good wire.
I have fixed bunches and bunches of cars with the clamp on type, but it is really second best.
Get the wires CLEAN. Make sure the clamp tightens and is really secure. They often are junky and only kinda tighten, and they distort as well..
Noting is a good as a factory terminal on a good wire.
I have fixed bunches and bunches of cars with the clamp on type, but it is really second best.
Get the wires CLEAN. Make sure the clamp tightens and is really secure. They often are junky and only kinda tighten, and they distort as well..
I agree withmechtech2. Clean & tight factory clamps. I do add some terminal spray to seal out moisture.
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