Battery terminal replacement.

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I'm going to replace the battery terminals as well on my 300ZX. I've actually never had to do that before on any car I've ever owned,but I noticed a tiny crack forming on one of them. Are there any types,kinds,brands that are best or better?
 
If you get brass ("marine") terminals they will not support corrosion. No more green or other gunk on the terminals, ever.

Make sure they are brass, some cheap ones I've seen in automotive stores are coated to look like brass but are lead underneath. Your OEM ones will be lead for top terminals probably as that is the cheapest material which OEMs like.

If you have side terminals you can substitute brass bolts and washers.

Make sure you get true positive and negative terminals if they are top type, they are different size and if you use the wrong one it might crack just like the ones you're replacing. The side terminal bolt holes are the same size.

You can swap over to side terminals or top terminals as you see fit if you want. Side are more reliable and most batteries are available with both so you have the choice. If you need to jump start the Nissan having top terminals on such a battery is handy even if you are using side terminals for your electrical connection on the vehicle.

They come with plastic caps so there is no short danger, and you can leave the negative one on and just remove the positive one when needed, since you never connect the negative cable to the battery when jump starting (connect it to a chassis point, the alternator bracket usually works well as it's grounded). *

A brass bolt of the correct size threads but a bit long is handy and easy to source. Install a brass nut on it, (nylox type if you want, but not really necessary and might be harder to source) and a washer. Main (+) or (-) cable crimp terminal at the end of you power cable goes on next.

Now you can install the brass bolt until it seats in the battery and then turn the nut down to secure the cable and washer, with your electrical terminal snug against the battery. Very secure setup, the differential torque between the bolt and nut keeps it in good contact and won't vibrate loose, while no need to over-torque any of the fasteners into the soft lead of the battery itself. Snug is good enough, no need to tighten beyond that.

* Why? There is an explosion hazard if a spark develops. It's extremely rare and many people ignore the hazard, but I once saw a battery explode at a service station and it's not pretty. You need your eyes.
 
I would buy new + and - cables from Nissan.

No sense in crimping a new terminal on an old cable. It's a good time to replace all your grounds as well.
 
I would just put in a similar one to what you've got now. If you have enough slack to cut back the lead to clean copper, that would be my choice. I just replaced the positive terminal on my tractor with another lead one and just cut back an inch and the copper looked like new, so that's as far back as i went. Use some terminal protector to help keep it corrosion free.
 
Positive and negative terminals are different size. I replaced them on my Jeep last year and ordered a pair on Amazon, they came in the same size! Had to run to the auto parts store to get a smaller one, but even the boxes there don't tell you. I had to try it out on a battery on the shelf.
 
The OEM ones are shaped thin brass - and they would be my choice to keep the electrical system from looking like it was hacked up.
 
Do the one piece cable and all if you can. Most are fairly generic. Also consider your grounds elsewhere on the engine, body ect. If they’re green and funky buy or make up new ones. Make sure the contact points on frames and castings is rust free when it goes back on as well. I grease mine when I remove them for whatever reason.
 
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