Battery keeps draining every few days ugh

With my Fluke 117 I measured parasitic current.
Initial: 300mA

3 min: 20-80mA fluctuating

Hmmmmmm

/

At first it read 0.000A. Fuse was somehow blown. Luckily I had a spare.
 
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Your measurements don't jibe with a full draining every three days.
Seems your potential parasitic draw, is intermittent.

Retaining 13.13v well after removal from charger is warm TPPL AGM territory. Odyssey/Northstar AGMS

The times I have observed a flooded battery retain such voltages for a good period of time after removal from charger, were when its electrolyte levels had dropped to just above the tops of the plates, and sometimes below.
 
I‘ll have to check electrolyte level. Can’t recall if this batt has covers. I think it does, under some stickers.

The 13.13 VDC is after a full night’s charge, then neg lead lifted for 11 hrs.
 
I have a 8 year old sulfated Exide Edge AGM battery that I recently removed from service. I charged it yesterday with a CTEK.

Today I gave it a 400A load for 15 seconds. 2 hours later it measured 12.95V at a battery temperature of 22degF.

Battery voltage can sometimes be misleading.
 
If the covers are under stickers it is a 'maintenance free' battery and unlikely to be low on water, as their gassing voltage is higher.

Maintenance free flooded are unlikely to ever need rewatering before they die form age/sulfation in non cyclic usage, and are not a good battery if deep cycle duty is intended.
 
With my Fluke 117 I measured parasitic current.
Initial: 300mA

3 min: 20-80mA fluctuating

Hmmmmmm

/

At first it read 0.000A. Fuse was somehow blown. Luckily I had a spare.

The parasitic current on my 2005 Subaru fluctuates from 44-58mA, in synchronicity with the flashing security light on my dash.
 
If the covers are under stickers it is a 'maintenance free' battery and unlikely to be low on water, as their gassing voltage is higher.

Maintenance free flooded are unlikely to ever need rewatering before they die form age/sulfation in non cyclic usage, and are not a good battery if deep cycle duty is intended.

Yea, this unintended deep cycling can’t be good for it...

I think I have some alligator clamp leads (maybe not big enough) that I‘ll try to use to leave the Fluke hooked up for longer. Maybe, with periodic monitoring, I’ll see something. Not likely, methinks...
 
I have a 8 year old sulfated Exide Edge AGM battery that I recently removed from service. I charged it yesterday with a CTEK.

Today I gave it a 400A load for 15 seconds. 2 hours later it measured 12.95V at a battery temperature of 22degF.

Battery voltage can sometimes be misleading.

Fortunately, there’s nothing misleading about a low voltage reading after a fail to start :(
 
Is there any problem with doing multiple parasitic drain tests? I mean repeatedly connecting and disconnecting the battery?
 
Battery at 13.08 VDC, disconnected for more than 24 hrs (discounting the few minutes it was connected for the draw test). It’s looking like the battery is just fine and I’m looking for an intermittent drain. OH, GREAT!

I can't think of any, as long as you give it good powered-up and powered-down times. Eg not just a second here and there. Make your ammeter connection as sturdy as possible.

I can’t find my alligators, so I clamped the negative lead into the nut of the negative clamp and simply pressed the pos lead into the center of the negative battery post. I’m able to lean my hand so that I’m comfortable in that position for many minutes.
 
Huh. Our CRV has a bad CD changer (supposedly, never tried it, don't have a reason to), and it won't hold a charge for more than a few days. Been looking for a reason to yank it, maybe it's time... Good article. I don't work on cars but have debugged a few things, and boy can it be one long list of things to check...
 
No real time to trouble-shoot.

13.06VDC prior to hooking up neg lead last night.

12.90 just now, ~ 18hrs later.

Will check again tonight and tomorrow.
 
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