Battery instantly dead

[svtrit]

I bought a replacement. Got the most CCA they sold for my car. Cranks like a dream and was able to check that was was getting 14.5 volts from the alternator. In fact, I probably should have thought about the dragging starter, but it’s below 0 here and it seemed normal. The new battery cranked the 0w-20 filled 2.4 like it was no big deal.

It sat all day without a battery while I stole my daughters car to go to work. Driving it this morning, my transmission stuttering problem is gone, which is probably just because of the “reset” from being without power all day.

 

[fisher83]

I try to replace mine if it's more than 3 years old- 4 at most. Mostly a convenience factor for me. I figure I can either change it out on my own schedule from the comforts of home or I can wait replace it in a parking lot in the dead of winter if i just wait for it to fail. It never seems to fail at a good time.

 

[ripcord]

In our mild climate, I've gotten almost 10 years out of a battery more than once. Of the ones I've replaced for family and friends in the last several years, all had been seriously abused by sitting in a vehicle that either had it's lights left on long enough to run it completely dead or the vehicle had sat for more than 6 months un-driven.

 

[JohnnyG]

Mercedes tends to monitor the voltage. You used to be able to display the voltage on the dash through some sequence. You usually get some warning when the voltage drops below 11 volts and it says convenience items disabled like the radio. The sunroof opening could the keyfob held down too long. Handy during the summer, hold it down and it opens the sunroof and rolls down the windows for faster cooling.

Nah, the sunroof would open in the vent position, you know, the back lip tips up. When you hold the unlock button down, not only does the roof open by sliding back ("normal open"?) but the windows all come down simultaneously. It would take an electrical engineer to figure out why this would happen the way it does, but I'll take it as a sign of a low battery from now on.
I might be able to read batt voltage in maintenance mode, I know I can see water temp, but it takes a lot of steps to get it up on the dash.

 

[jkasch]

I had a Duralast Gold go bad in a way I had never experienced. The vehicle cranked a bit slow in cold weather, but it caused all kinds of electrical gremlins. Clock wouldn't keep time. Rear wiper would occasionally do one wipe without being switched on. Made strange noises and dash warning lights and chimes would stay on for several seconds after start-up. I figured a bad ground or mice had chewed some wiring. Finally replaced the battery and all is good.

 

[Donald]

I bought a replacement. Got the most CCA they sold for my car. Cranks like a dream and was able to check that was was getting 14.5 volts from the alternator. In fact, I probably should have thought about the dragging starter, but it’s below 0 here and it seemed normal. The new battery cranked the 0w-20 filled 2.4 like it was no big deal.

It sat all day without a battery while I stole my daughters car to go to work. Driving it this morning, my transmission stuttering problem is gone, which is probably just because of the “reset” from being without power all day.

So more CCA in same group size = thinner plates. Best to get the CCA the vehicle came from factory with.

So more CCA is not better. Now a larger battery with more CCA is fine.

I also realize that you cannot easily find a given battery in various CCA models. Although you could probably order one from Interstate. They have a ton of batteries listed in their catalog.

 

[atikovi]

After wiggling the negative clamp, and making note I tighten that, it fired up.

Once home, I changed the battery and went to bed. This morning, same thing. It’s around -8F here these days.

If after wiggling the clamp it fired up, why did you change the battery once home? Why didn't you just tighten the clamp again which was obviously loose or even clean it?

 

[zzyzzx]

Having a built in voltmeter sometimes is a help with respect to an early warning type of thing, but not by much.

 

[svtrit]

If after wiggling the clamp it fired up, why did you change the battery once home? Why didn't you just tighten the clamp again which was obviously loose or even clean it?

I meant charged.....auto correct got me there.

It was fully changed that evening, and dropped to 12.3 by morning. It would not turn over the engine, even after cleaning the posts and clamps.

 

[JHZR2]

I’ve had an instantly dead scenario where an internal short kills the battery. Drive into a gas station on a road trip, all seems fine. Try to start back up, dead as can be.

But that was an internal short dragging the battery to like 10v and eating up any jump start energy it got.

Yours measures good-ish (or a slow higher impedance short), and probably has no real capacity behind it.

 

[duck__dodgers]

I bought a replacement. Got the most CCA they sold for my car. Cranks like a dream and was able to check that was was getting 14.5 volts from the alternator. In fact, I probably should have thought about the dragging starter, but it’s below 0 here and it seemed normal. The new battery cranked the 0w-20 filled 2.4 like it was no big deal.

It sat all day without a battery while I stole my daughters car to go to work. Driving it this morning, my transmission stuttering problem is gone, which is probably just because of the “reset” from being without power all day.

By some chance is this a Honda K24 with the 51R battery?
Those batteries (OEM is 4xx CCA) are underpowered. Easy to change to a size 35 or 24F battery (600+ CCA), next time you need to.

 

[atikovi]

By some chance is this a Honda K24 with the 51R battery?
Those batteries (OEM is 4xx CCA) are underpowered.

Says who? General rule was 1 CCA per C.I.D. and no Camry is anywhere near 400 cubes.

 

[duck__dodgers]

Says who? General rule was 1 CCA per C.I.D. and no Camry is anywhere near 400 cubes.

personal experience. much colder than DC. Ymmv.

simple mod worth getting 600 CCA for a 2.4L.

 

[JimPghPA]

Says who? General rule was 1 CCA per C.I.D. and no Camry is anywhere near 400 cubes.

That general rule was when engnes were lower compresson.

Think HP rating, not displacement.

 

[atikovi]

That general rule was when engnes were lower compresson.

Think HP rating, not displacement.

OK but then again, those engines were using 10W40 or 20W50. Today it's more like 0W20 so they turn over easier even with high compression.

 

[JimPghPA]

OK but then again, those engines were using 10W40 or 20W50. Today it's more like 0W20 so they turn over easier even with high compression.

Yes, but today they have electric fuel pumps, electric solonoid coils on each fuel injector, and higher energy spark systems.

 

[partspro]

Did you charge or change the battery when you got home?

You need to remove both cables and clean the cable connector and post with a battery brush or wire brush. Maybe use some baking soda and water.

Although 5 years for a battery is reasonable life. But figure out if it a battery or battery connection problem.

I have lost count of the batteries I sold and installed at AAP. Yes they up and die, heat is the real killer, but the fail in the Winter. You pay for the Warranty, 1 3 or 5 years. As posted clean everything, apply some grease, $1 at AAP, they will install quickly and test your electrical system.

 

[partspro]

I have had good luck with Walmart Batteries, keep the receipt and you will have no issues, you do have to wait a long time

 

[billt460]

Yes, but today they have electric fuel pumps, electric solonoid coils on each fuel injector, and higher energy spark systems.

I have to agree here. Today's modern engines put a far greater drain on a battery when turning over, than engines of the 60's and 70's. Which were basically low compression slugs with minimal electrical and electronic drains. Modern starter motors also draw more power.

One advantage on the battery today, is today they don't have to crank as long. Some of the carburetor engines with "automatic chokes" and breaker point ignition back then, took a lot of cranking to get started.

 

[Donald]

I have to agree here. Today's modern engines put a far greater drain on a battery when turning over, than engines of the 60's and 70's. Which were basically low compression slugs with minimal electrical and electronic drains. Modern starter motors also draw more power.

One advantage on the battery today, is today they don't have to crank as long. Some of the carburetor engines with "automatic chokes" and breaker point ignition back then, took a lot of cranking to get started.

I am not sure the compression has changed much since we are still using 87 octane gas. But with EFI and electronic ignition the engine starts with minimal cranking.