Battery clamps already oxidizing....

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Originally Posted By: Donald
I for one cannot see how over tightening can damage much. Is it going to make the post oval instead of round? Hard to imagine. Now distorting the case by over tightening the hold down screw may be a possibility. I can see people twisting off the battery clamp rather than using a puller causing some problems.

I think you need at least the MAXX at Walmart. Go back and say you are not happy with the battery leaking and want to pay to upgrade to a MAXX.
I tried that with one I had that was leaking (Jeep, has an Everstart))-they told me if it didn't test bad that leaking wasn't enough to exchange it under warranty. Typical WM TLE!
 
Does the car go through a lot of bulbs? Hardly scientific but a good sign of over charging.

The washers and sprays are all fine but a copper penny next to the post does as good a job. Just make sure its a older real copper one.
Just place it there and forget it, it will attract the corrosion away from the post and clamp, change it when its nasty looking.
 
Originally Posted By: Rolla07
Originally Posted By: Donald
accent2012 said:
The clamps are [censored], they are not on that, so no way they are overtightened on the terminal. Upon my second inspection last night I did not notice any leaks at the terminals.

The screw on the clamp has build up or corrosion that prevents me from firmly tightening the clamp onto the terminal.

No point in getting a different battery now because I found out my friend threw the receipt out... I'll double check for leaks, re-clean the clamps, put some di-electric grease, protector, etc. The Walmart that sold the battery will have the sale stored on their computer. No receipt is needed. They will also go by MFG date.


I dont understand why you wouldnt keep the receipt.. put it in the glove box and forget about it.. if you ever need it, it wont be far..


Some people don't think like us. All my receipts go into envelopes and are stored for an indefinate period of time; but not until after manually entering into Quicken. [Then reconciled with the bank statement--used to be by hand, but I think my wife downloads and compares the differences.] It would bother me to keep receipts in the car, as that is the wrong place; non-receipt stuff goes into a car folder and is stored in the house.
Click to expand...
 
Originally Posted By: Trav
The washers and sprays are all fine but a copper penny next to the post does as good a job. Just make sure its a older real copper one.
Just place it there and forget it, it will attract the corrosion away from the post and clamp, change it when its nasty looking.


So do you wedge it under there between the post and clamp, secure or glue it, any pictures of that? [img:left]http://[/img] [img:left]http://[/img]
 
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That copper penny won't do anything. It just happens to corrode from the acid unlike the plastic top of the battery. The acid is there regardless. Waste of 2 cents......
 
Originally Posted By: accent2012
Yeah, they want to charge $10 to look it up, she called.

So yeah, I just got back from the auto parts store with a new clamp and protectors. Thanks for all the helpful tips.

I'll do my best so as to let this battery last for as long as possible.


I would not accept an answer that says they charge you $10 to look up a sale on their computer. I would go there in person and talk to a manager.
 
Originally Posted By: zzyzzx
Use these:
Battery-Terminal-Washer.jpg


1800E_yellow1970_1030081.jpg


This next one is in my car:
escortbatterynegative01.jpg


These felt washers are the type of thing you should remember to tack on to your next Rock Auto order if it doesn't boost shipping costs.


This.

I've used them for years on both rigs with no other coating and they absolutely work. I only change them when I put new batteries in.
 
Just put it next to the post thats all, no glue or anything, it will stay put.
On bike batteries and side post its not something i would bother with.
Bike connectors rarely show corrosion and side post would be almost impossible.

It does work, i learned this over 40 yrs ago from my teacher. The copper acts as a sacrificial anode.
Remember to use an old all copper penny. Try it and post back in a few months.
 
If the battery wasn't leaking there will be no acid to react with the copper.

More than likely if it is a battery that can be maintained the electrolyte level is too high or the battery is taking too many amps to maintain the voltage causing too much gassing.

Acid mist does not care where it falls. It will no more be drawn to a penny then the top of the battery case.
 
Because the battery is leaking at the post or being over charged. But if there is acid on top of the battery away from the post it is from being overfilled more than likely. One must resist the urge to fill the battery above the separators.
 
The battery top does not have to be wet for the terminals to get corroded.
Leaking battery case, over charging and over filling are certainly all reasons for corrosion but so is normal venting where none of those conditions exist.

All batteries vent to some degree, even the sealed batteries vent a very small amount over their lifetime, gases will find a path to escape easier than a liquid.
Terminal corrosion on these sealed types will be less, ditto side post batteries that have their recessed and better protected terminals further away from the vented vapors.
Most motorcycle batteries are externally vented through a hose on the side of the battery and have few terminal corrosion issues.

The copper in the penny is more attractive to the acid than the lead post and acts as a sacrificial anode.
 
If corroded, replace with a new terminal and spray liberally with Corrosion X. Including the cable strands. Then with Corrosion X, "Max-Wax" or other thick coating. The thin stuff creeps into to tight areas. Then the thick stuff protects.

It works wonders!!
 
Originally Posted By: Trav
The battery top does not have to be wet for the terminals to get corroded.
Leaking battery case, over charging and over filling are certainly all reasons for corrosion but so is normal venting where none of those conditions exist.

All batteries vent to some degree, even the sealed batteries vent a very small amount over their lifetime, gases will find a path to escape easier than a liquid.
Terminal corrosion on these sealed types will be less, ditto side post batteries that have their recessed and better protected terminals further away from the vented vapors.
Most motorcycle batteries are externally vented through a hose on the side of the battery and have few terminal corrosion issues.

The copper in the penny is more attractive to the acid than the lead post and acts as a sacrificial anode.




Excessive gassing is causing the acid to vent. Normally if the level is not too high and the charge current is not to high it will not vent liquid acid. Acid does not come out as a vapor but is pushed out by the gaseous vapor in liquid form as it is a mist inside the battery above the plates. The vapor will be hydrogen and oxygen gasses.

If your battery is fully charged and you can see anything but an occasional bubble when looking into the cell and it is on charge, then there is too much current going through it. This is due to a bad regulator, bad battery internally (too low resistance) or the electrolyte is too weak, caused by the addition of too much water.

If your penny is corroding then the liquid acid will also be more than likely on the lead post too. I suppose the post seals could be good and the gassing is excessive, then the liquid acid is coming out the vented caps due to the above listed reasons. The copper penny, to act as an anode, would have to be competing a circuit and have current flowing through it.

Most sealed batteries have a pressure release valve in them and will not normally vent unless overcharged.

Most modern batteries are like this. Some old types will gas no matter what. Mainly the non Calcium plate grid alloyed ones using Antimony instead in the grids.
 
My batteries don't leak. One is a sealed Odyssey that I could run upside down if I wanted to, and the other is a Hyundai OEM. In the almost six years with the Hyundai battery, the clamps look like the day I got the car new. Neither leaks acid.
 
Originally Posted By: 901Memphis
You want a 1962-1982 penny in case you were wondering.

Why wouldn't a modern penny work? The zinc is even more anodic than copper.

Or are you looking for something cathodic? In that case a nickel (monel) or a chunk of stainless steel would be better.
 
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