I would do it as if the original contractor installed a finished basement. Get some plans, pull a permit and do it right with inspections. This means of course you need egress windows in any bedroom etc. The value of the added square footage will pay for itself eventually. Don't forget the luxurious master bath and suite.
Basement question
- Thread starter supton
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Originally Posted by sloinker
I would do it as if the original contractor installed a finished basement. Get some plans, pull a permit and do it right with inspections. This means of course you need egress windows in any bedroom etc. The value of the added square footage will pay for itself eventually. Don't forget the luxurious master bath and suite.
Uh, these are workrooms. Not living spaces. Not supposed to be anything fancy. Just a simple place to spread out and work on projects.
Last thing I want to do is add to the value of the property! My taxes are reasonably low but no need to raise them. My tax rate is around 1.55%. Adding $10k in value might only be $155 extra per year in taxes, but that's every year, and bound to only go up with time...
I would do it as if the original contractor installed a finished basement. Get some plans, pull a permit and do it right with inspections. This means of course you need egress windows in any bedroom etc. The value of the added square footage will pay for itself eventually. Don't forget the luxurious master bath and suite.
Uh, these are workrooms. Not living spaces. Not supposed to be anything fancy. Just a simple place to spread out and work on projects.
Last thing I want to do is add to the value of the property! My taxes are reasonably low but no need to raise them. My tax rate is around 1.55%. Adding $10k in value might only be $155 extra per year in taxes, but that's every year, and bound to only go up with time...
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Resale value is always a concern. I don't know if this will help you at all but this is what I did. I used 2x6 PT on the floor and framed out my block (read porous) foundation with 2x4 dougfir set off the wall on the 2x6 bottom plate. 2x4 top plate was used. I then insulated with standard R19 insulation. It's been 15 years since I built my house. Just running a standard stand a lone dehumidifyer for summer and I've never had any issue. This ended up being a 1200 sq ft addition to the bottom floor. I do get air flow from a walk out slider on one end and 2 ceiling fans in kids play room.
To me, most important thing for foundation was running curtain drains correctly pitched AND far enough away from the structure. At least here in the northeast. Only place I've built a house.
To me, most important thing for foundation was running curtain drains correctly pitched AND far enough away from the structure. At least here in the northeast. Only place I've built a house.
Originally Posted by supton
I this link is an ad but still, they seem to list a con against using Drylok in the basement, which makes sense to me. Moisture is going to get into the concrete anyhow, and using a sealer is going to let it sit behind the paint. If adhesion isn't perfect it's just going to peel, and then no longer be sealed.
I've never liked the idea of finished basements, it strikes me as something hard to do properly. Sealing should start on the outside of the foundation and then whatever is inside will need to breath inward, but it'll have to breath. Just like how the upstairs is done--keep water out, but allow a path for whatever got in (or was exhaled), out.
The advertisement is mostly nonsense unless you have a serious drainage problem outside in the yard. The outside of the basement walls should have been coated with waterproofing tar when it was built. Also, before the foundation was poured there was a drainage system installed under the walls and floor around the perimeter which is supposed to take care of the water, that is what your sump pump is for. If you were going to finish the basement you would have to install a vapor barrier next to the walls anyway. On the house I owned in Wisconsin I applied a waterproof coating on the walls and floor in the basement. The type of coating I used was supposed to actually penetrate the concrete. Not only did I not have any problem with it, the basement's humidity was markedly lower afterward. Nobody I know that has done this has ever had a problem.
I this link is an ad but still, they seem to list a con against using Drylok in the basement, which makes sense to me. Moisture is going to get into the concrete anyhow, and using a sealer is going to let it sit behind the paint. If adhesion isn't perfect it's just going to peel, and then no longer be sealed.
I've never liked the idea of finished basements, it strikes me as something hard to do properly. Sealing should start on the outside of the foundation and then whatever is inside will need to breath inward, but it'll have to breath. Just like how the upstairs is done--keep water out, but allow a path for whatever got in (or was exhaled), out.
The advertisement is mostly nonsense unless you have a serious drainage problem outside in the yard. The outside of the basement walls should have been coated with waterproofing tar when it was built. Also, before the foundation was poured there was a drainage system installed under the walls and floor around the perimeter which is supposed to take care of the water, that is what your sump pump is for. If you were going to finish the basement you would have to install a vapor barrier next to the walls anyway. On the house I owned in Wisconsin I applied a waterproof coating on the walls and floor in the basement. The type of coating I used was supposed to actually penetrate the concrete. Not only did I not have any problem with it, the basement's humidity was markedly lower afterward. Nobody I know that has done this has ever had a problem.
Just don't use CDX the adhesive stinks (literally) to high heaven. 1/2" is way too thick .
I would Look at some of the textured simulated paneling, the variety of choices is pretty cool now.
You could do a "rock wall" bottom with white or honeypine beadboard above a chair rail height.
Not Your Uncle's basement paneling.
![[Linked Image]](https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/attachments/usergals/2019/08/full-27717-35570-bead_board.jpg "[Linked Image]")
![[Linked Image]](https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/attachments/usergals/2019/08/full-27717-35571-bpanel.jpg "[Linked Image]")
![[Linked Image]](https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/attachments/usergals/2019/08/full-27717-35572-fstenpnl.jpg "[Linked Image]")
I would Look at some of the textured simulated paneling, the variety of choices is pretty cool now.
You could do a "rock wall" bottom with white or honeypine beadboard above a chair rail height.
Not Your Uncle's basement paneling.
Or nOt
Seems like supton wants to treat the basement like a modern office space - put up inexpensive semi temporary cubicles that can be taken out if he decides to move. It seems like a novel idea. If the basement is truly very dry, I'm not sure why he is not using the concrete as walls.
Originally Posted by doitmyself
Seems like supton wants to treat the basement like a modern office space - put up inexpensive semi temporary cubicles that can be taken out if he decides to move. It seems like a novel idea. If the basement is truly very dry, I'm not sure why he is not using the concrete as walls.
I don't get it either,why in the world would you build rooms in the center of another room?
Just take your diagram and move it to the bottom right corner and put the doors on the left thus eliminating all th e right side walls you are building. Y ou could still do it in such a way it could be dissasembled later. It seems you are wasting a lot of space in your plan.
Seems like supton wants to treat the basement like a modern office space - put up inexpensive semi temporary cubicles that can be taken out if he decides to move. It seems like a novel idea. If the basement is truly very dry, I'm not sure why he is not using the concrete as walls.
I don't get it either,why in the world would you build rooms in the center of another room?
Just take your diagram and move it to the bottom right corner and put the doors on the left thus eliminating all th e right side walls you are building. Y ou could still do it in such a way it could be dissasembled later. It seems you are wasting a lot of space in your plan.
Originally Posted by doitmyself
Seems like supton wants to treat the basement like a modern office space - put up inexpensive semi temporary cubicles that can be taken out if he decides to move. It seems like a novel idea. If the basement is truly very dry, I'm not sure why he is not using the concrete as walls.
I didn't think of it that way, but that is what it is, isn't it?
Originally Posted by bradepb
I don't get it either,why in the world would you build rooms in the center of another room?
Just take your diagram and move it to the bottom right corner and put the doors on the left thus eliminating all th e right side walls you are building. Y ou could still do it in such a way it could be dissasembled later. It seems you are wasting a lot of space in your plan.
Fear of the unknown. I've seen too many pictures on the web of moisture problems in basements. It seems easy to do things wrong (and sometimes too expensive to do right). Personally when house shopping I considered a finished basement a detractor from the house value, not an increase in value.
Also I don't want to have problems access pipes and electric and cleanouts in the future. Yeah drop ceilings probably fix that problem, but if I don't have a room below a toilet or shower or other drain at all, then it's all the more not going to be damaged in case of problem.
Seems like supton wants to treat the basement like a modern office space - put up inexpensive semi temporary cubicles that can be taken out if he decides to move. It seems like a novel idea. If the basement is truly very dry, I'm not sure why he is not using the concrete as walls.
I didn't think of it that way, but that is what it is, isn't it?
Originally Posted by bradepb
I don't get it either,why in the world would you build rooms in the center of another room?
Just take your diagram and move it to the bottom right corner and put the doors on the left thus eliminating all th e right side walls you are building. Y ou could still do it in such a way it could be dissasembled later. It seems you are wasting a lot of space in your plan.
Fear of the unknown. I've seen too many pictures on the web of moisture problems in basements. It seems easy to do things wrong (and sometimes too expensive to do right). Personally when house shopping I considered a finished basement a detractor from the house value, not an increase in value.
Also I don't want to have problems access pipes and electric and cleanouts in the future. Yeah drop ceilings probably fix that problem, but if I don't have a room below a toilet or shower or other drain at all, then it's all the more not going to be damaged in case of problem.
Finally got the interior of it done. Exterior will lag, just in case we want to add an outlet or something.
Looks like I started over the Christmas break--I think I started a wall long before then, but life got busy and it sat until Christmas, then I had a week to get back to this.
![[Linked Image]](https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/attachments/usergals/2020/03/full-24086-41895-sewingroom5.png "[Linked Image]")
Originally I wanted it fully floating, but quickly realized it had zero resistance to wobble, so I tied it to the ceiling joists. Then realized it still moved too much, so gave in and anchored to the floor. Looking back, I kinda wish I had boxed in the Lally columns now, but then again, it was easier to work this way. I also did 24" centering on the studs, and figured I'd zip in a stud wherever I needed one; I think in the future I'll stick with 16" centers. Also I should have bought the "premium" studs instead of the econo framing ones, had to deal too much with warped studs and stuff just not lining up to make the few bucks saved worth it.
I did the framing and electrical. Wife did the sheetrock and paint. I cut the flooring and help snap it into place, likewise on the ceiling framework--I let her do the measuring, I just did the cutting, as I didn't want to be responsible... She did cut the ceiling tiles and inserted those.
I think it came out ok. Not bad for a first time effort. Eventually I'll shove insulation into the stud cavities and finish the sheetrock.
![[Linked Image]](https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/attachments/usergals/2020/03/full-24086-41896-sewingroom4.png "[Linked Image]")
![[Linked Image]](https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/attachments/usergals/2020/03/full-24086-41897-sewingroom1.png "[Linked Image]")
![[Linked Image]](https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/attachments/usergals/2020/03/full-24086-41898-sewingroom3.png "[Linked Image]")
![[Linked Image]](https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/attachments/usergals/2020/03/full-24086-41899-sewingroom2.png "[Linked Image]")
Looks like I started over the Christmas break--I think I started a wall long before then, but life got busy and it sat until Christmas, then I had a week to get back to this.
Originally I wanted it fully floating, but quickly realized it had zero resistance to wobble, so I tied it to the ceiling joists. Then realized it still moved too much, so gave in and anchored to the floor. Looking back, I kinda wish I had boxed in the Lally columns now, but then again, it was easier to work this way. I also did 24" centering on the studs, and figured I'd zip in a stud wherever I needed one; I think in the future I'll stick with 16" centers. Also I should have bought the "premium" studs instead of the econo framing ones, had to deal too much with warped studs and stuff just not lining up to make the few bucks saved worth it.
I did the framing and electrical. Wife did the sheetrock and paint. I cut the flooring and help snap it into place, likewise on the ceiling framework--I let her do the measuring, I just did the cutting, as I didn't want to be responsible... She did cut the ceiling tiles and inserted those.
I think it came out ok. Not bad for a first time effort. Eventually I'll shove insulation into the stud cavities and finish the sheetrock.
My only suggestion would be more lighting with that dark wall color. Feels too much like the in-school detention room otherwise.
Originally Posted by RhondaHonda
My only suggestion would be more lighting with that dark wall color. Feels too much like the in-school detention room otherwise.
Wife said something about getting some track lighting. I'll install it once she gets it. It's her room so she gets what she wants. For now the light is jerry-rigged, we didn't have any other lights so I zipped a hole through a tile to make that one.
My only suggestion would be more lighting with that dark wall color. Feels too much like the in-school detention room otherwise.
Wife said something about getting some track lighting. I'll install it once she gets it. It's her room so she gets what she wants. For now the light is jerry-rigged, we didn't have any other lights so I zipped a hole through a tile to make that one.
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