Baseboard heater wall Termostat, 1 pole or 2 pole?
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Do you want the heater to turn completely off or just have a low setting.
There is no need to switch both wires for 220V. You can switch either hot wire. You will have 220V live into the baseboard heater even when the heater is off, but you should really not be messing with the electrical connections of the heater without turning off the circuit breaker.
Single pole.
Single pole.
You are going to need a 2 pole thermostat to disconnect both conductors at once. The circuit breaker must be 2 pole as well. Any reason why you cant just use a 110v heater and a single pole thermostat?
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Originally Posted By: Donald
There is no need to switch both wires for 220V. You can switch either hot wire. You will have 220V live into the baseboard heater even when the heater is off, but you should really not be messing with the electrical connections of the heater without turning off the circuit breaker.
Single pole.
This. A resistive baseboard heater only needs a single pole thermostat.
There is no need to switch both wires for 220V. You can switch either hot wire. You will have 220V live into the baseboard heater even when the heater is off, but you should really not be messing with the electrical connections of the heater without turning off the circuit breaker.
Single pole.
This. A resistive baseboard heater only needs a single pole thermostat.
Originally Posted By: Dave Sherman
Originally Posted By: Donald
There is no need to switch both wires for 220V. You can switch either hot wire. You will have 220V live into the baseboard heater even when the heater is off, but you should really not be messing with the electrical connections of the heater without turning off the circuit breaker.
Single pole.
This. A resistive baseboard heater only needs a single pole thermostat.
These were my thoughts.
But why are there 2 pole thermostats?
Originally Posted By: Donald
There is no need to switch both wires for 220V. You can switch either hot wire. You will have 220V live into the baseboard heater even when the heater is off, but you should really not be messing with the electrical connections of the heater without turning off the circuit breaker.
Single pole.
This. A resistive baseboard heater only needs a single pole thermostat.
These were my thoughts.
But why are there 2 pole thermostats?
What does local code require? What does the appliance manufacturer require? Either of those trump any advise given here.
Originally Posted By: tom slick
What does local code require? What does the appliance manufacturer require? Either of those trump any advise given here.
Code allows either for residential use, The manufacturer gives instructions for either Single or Double. HD sell both, by the same manufacturer as the heater.
I now understand the typically, a 2 pole thermo will turn to OFF, where as a single pole will only turn down to some arbitrary 'low' setting.
All seems a bit silly.
What does local code require? What does the appliance manufacturer require? Either of those trump any advise given here.
Code allows either for residential use, The manufacturer gives instructions for either Single or Double. HD sell both, by the same manufacturer as the heater.
I now understand the typically, a 2 pole thermo will turn to OFF, where as a single pole will only turn down to some arbitrary 'low' setting.
All seems a bit silly.
Well it all depends. If it is only a 2 wire with ground on a 220v circuit one leg will always be hot at the heater element. This is a ground fault hazard in my opinion. It will truly cycle the element on and off though.
If it is 220v with neutral and ground then it is really 2-110v elements. Then there may be a hi and low setting.
Some heaters are dual 110v elements. Your typical electric dryer is like this. One leg for heater, another for control and the 110v drum motor. Not true 220v single phase.
My AC outside unit is 220v but the contactor only cuts one side of the 220v. So one side is always hot. It's cheaper but more hazardous.
If it is 220v with neutral and ground then it is really 2-110v elements. Then there may be a hi and low setting.
Some heaters are dual 110v elements. Your typical electric dryer is like this. One leg for heater, another for control and the 110v drum motor. Not true 220v single phase.
My AC outside unit is 220v but the contactor only cuts one side of the 220v. So one side is always hot. It's cheaper but more hazardous.
It's 2 wire Plus Ground (14/2) the wires are Black and Red, in Reed sheathing (required by code for 220v, 2 wire service)
The heater has the option to be wired 110v, but would of course have a lower output
I'm sure if the risk (single pole) was significant, there would only be 2 pole Thermos.
The heater has the option to be wired 110v, but would of course have a lower output
I'm sure if the risk (single pole) was significant, there would only be 2 pole Thermos.
Originally Posted By: expat
It's 2 wire Plus Ground (14/2) the wires are Black and Red, in Reed sheathing (required by code for 220v, 2 wire service)
The heater has the option to be wired 110v, but would of course have a lower output
I'm sure if the risk (single pole) was significant, there would only be 2 pole Thermos.
It's just a cheaper way to do it. And live 110v is always a risk.
It's 2 wire Plus Ground (14/2) the wires are Black and Red, in Reed sheathing (required by code for 220v, 2 wire service)
The heater has the option to be wired 110v, but would of course have a lower output
I'm sure if the risk (single pole) was significant, there would only be 2 pole Thermos.
It's just a cheaper way to do it. And live 110v is always a risk.
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