Ball tow hitch on the Blazer

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Originally Posted By: TechnoLoGs
Originally Posted By: OVERKILL
This sounds like a recipe for disaster. How good are the brakes on the Blazer? How much trailer towing experience do you have?


The brakes are good, tires aired up with tread (should I let some out?), there is still the massive 500lbs or so of weight behind the backseat due to the engine, and I know you tow driving verrrry cautiously or you can push yourself into ___________________ for underestimating velocity.

I doubt U-Haul will say "no" however I am gonna stay local roads, speeds down.. apparently the U-haul guys know how to rig up the wiring and put it on. That said, would be first car *towed.* Still, an empty Escalade towed it, and my truck and it probably weigh roughly the same. (Mine has 500+lbs extra weight)


You aren't thinking this through.

The Escalade weighs more, even with the engine in the back. AND the Escalade is setup to stop its added weight and whatever it is rated to tow. It is a much better tow vehicle.

The 500lbs of extra weight is a hindrance not a benefit. It is 500lbs more to stop and move in a vehicle that may not already be capable of safely dealing with this trailer.

You want your tires at the placard pressure. Don't think about adding or removing air. The vehicle's tow rating is based on the tires being at that pressure.
 
Also, the U-Haul car trailer is NOT set up for a weight distributing hitch, (as in spring bars like one would see on a travel trailer)-there's going to be a LOT of tongue weight on the hitch, probably above your GAWR (gross axle weight rating). I've only seen one receiver hitch rated for above 500 lbs tongue weight/5000 lbs NON-weight distributing hitch rating-and it's not made for an S-Blazer.
 
Why do think having the extra weight of an engine in the back makes your truck more suitable for towing?
 
Originally Posted By: silverrat
Why do think having the extra weight of an engine in the back makes your truck more suitable for towing?


Harder for the car being towed to push it (me) (forward) (into something.)

... right?

I'd imagine an empty pick-up bed would lose control before the loaded weight, same as sandbags for weight in snow??
 
Originally Posted By: surfstar
Originally Posted By: Christopher Hussey
I think that for you, AAA would be a worthwhile investment.


This would be the smartest course of action.

Which means that it won't be followed.


How far do they tow....

I don;t have AA...
 
Originally Posted By: TechnoLoGs
Originally Posted By: silverrat
Why do think having the extra weight of an engine in the back makes your truck more suitable for towing?


Harder for the car being towed to push it (me) (forward) (into something.)

... right?


No. The more weight means it is more difficult for your brakes to stop it.

Quote:

I'd imagine an empty pick-up bed would lose control before the loaded weight, same as sandbags for weight in snow??


No. The weight on the tongue of the trailer is all kinds of added weight here. Adding more isn't helping, it is making it a lot worse.
 
I recall reading somewhere that 80's S10 pickups were, at least some of them, rated for 5000 lbs towing. Even if they'd blow their 2.8s up doing it. Naturally you need to look up YOUR truck with YOUR equipment.

Uhaul has a configurator website to see if you can do it.

The volvo being AWD needs to be on a trailer, not a dolly. If you can remove the rear axles though you can dolly it.

If uhaul says a dolly would be fine, you can buy a used dolly on CL for $600 then sell it later for $600.

PS I wouldn't do it with what sounds like a rod knocking, but would be curious to see you embark on this.
 
Originally Posted By: bullwinkle
I'd get that old motor out-you'll be dangerously overloaded as-is. The U-Haul Auto Transport trailer is all steel, OVER 2200 pounds empty, plus the weight of the Volvo-guessing 5000+ total?? That's a LOT for a S-Blazer to tow safely! My Cherokee has a factory receiver hitch, NO WAY I would even try it!


+1

You need to get that motor out of the back anyway, even if you don't tow the Volvo. Imagine this, you're tooling down the interstate, suddenly, a car cuts you off and you have to slam on your brakes. That 500 pound motor is suddenly going to be climbing up your backside in less time than it takes to tell about it with possibly deadly results. If the motor is junk, take it to the junk yard and dump it for scrap, get a few bucks for it and apply that to either a tow hitch or a new motor for the Volvo.
 
Originally Posted By: bullwinkle
Also, the U-Haul car trailer is NOT set up for a weight distributing hitch, (as in spring bars like one would see on a travel trailer)-there's going to be a LOT of tongue weight on the hitch, probably above your GAWR (gross axle weight rating). I've only seen one receiver hitch rated for above 500 lbs tongue weight/5000 lbs NON-weight distributing hitch rating-and it's not made for an S-Blazer.


The advantage the S10 Blazer has over our XJ Cherokees is they are almost 1,000 pounds heavier. That makes it a bit more reasonable to tow to the max.

Still, I wouldn't do it. A S10 Blzer or XJ Cherokee is just too short and too light.

I think your safest bet is to rent a tow dolly and remove the driveshaft to the rear differential on the Volvo. That will save a lot of weight. Towing a 3000 pound car is a bit more ... safe ... than a 3000 pound car and a 2200 pound trailer.
 
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: Miller88
Originally Posted By: bullwinkle
Also, the U-Haul car trailer is NOT set up for a weight distributing hitch, (as in spring bars like one would see on a travel trailer)-there's going to be a LOT of tongue weight on the hitch, probably above your GAWR (gross axle weight rating). I've only seen one receiver hitch rated for above 500 lbs tongue weight/5000 lbs NON-weight distributing hitch rating-and it's not made for an S-Blazer.


The advantage the S10 Blazer has over our XJ Cherokees is they are almost 1,000 pounds heavier. That makes it a bit more reasonable to tow to the max.

Still, I wouldn't do it. A S10 Blzer or XJ Cherokee is just too short and too light.

I think your safest bet is to rent a tow dolly and remove the driveshaft to the rear differential on the Volvo. That will save a lot of weight. Towing a 3000 pound car is a bit more ... safe ... than a 3000 pound car and a 2200 pound trailer.


Adding $375 to my wallet. No towing right now.

See sig and Items For Sale and tthe Blazer thread I have
smile.gif
 
Originally Posted By: TechnoLoGs
Originally Posted By: bullwinkle
In my neck of the woods (Cincinnati, older suburbs) there are many independent wrecker driver types that will haul vehicles for a reasonable price-that's the route I would take. There's no sense destroying both vehicles in a wreck, plus a potential additional innocent 3rd party if you hit someone-and we both know your insurance isn't going to cover you in an accident if you're that overloaded.


"wrecker types?"

I asked a flatbed if they towed long distance, they said no. Seemed so disinterested, I was surprised.

** Of course, this whole aspect assumes I can get a tow ball rigged up, and have the funds.


He means like Jim Bob's Wrecker Service out in the country with a bunch of junk cars parked out front or just some guy with an old tow truck. Some place where business is slow and they might not mind having a truck tied up for a day. A busy tow company isn't going to go out of their way to get your Volvo when they could do several local tows instead.

I'd just rent a truck and a car hauler. Don't kill your working vehicle trying to get a dead one that you don't know is worth fixing.
 
Originally Posted By: thr_wedge
Selling the Volvo and NOT towing with the S-10 blazer were the best decisions. Cheers!

But now we don't get to know what would have happened
frown.gif
 
Originally Posted By: Miller88
Originally Posted By: bullwinkle
Also, the U-Haul car trailer is NOT set up for a weight distributing hitch, (as in spring bars like one would see on a travel trailer)-there's going to be a LOT of tongue weight on the hitch, probably above your GAWR (gross axle weight rating). I've only seen one receiver hitch rated for above 500 lbs tongue weight/5000 lbs NON-weight distributing hitch rating-and it's not made for an S-Blazer.


The advantage the S10 Blazer has over our XJ Cherokees is they are almost 1,000 pounds heavier. That makes it a bit more reasonable to tow to the max.

Still, I wouldn't do it. A S10 Blzer or XJ Cherokee is just too short and too light.

I think your safest bet is to rent a tow dolly and remove the driveshaft to the rear differential on the Volvo. That will save a lot of weight. Towing a 3000 pound car is a bit more ... safe ... than a 3000 pound car and a 2200 pound trailer.
Edmunds actually shows an S-Blazer at around 3500, my XJ at 3350-one advantage of the S-10 is (I think) a full frame, vs. unibody on the XJ. I'm glad GHT didn't try it, I think the result would have been BAD!
 
Originally Posted By: Anduril
Originally Posted By: thr_wedge
Selling the Volvo and NOT towing with the S-10 blazer were the best decisions. Cheers!

But now we don't get to know what would have happened
frown.gif



I had no compression on 4 out of the 5 cylinders. Bertrands told me this when the wrecker showed up at their door. (Flatbed)
 
Originally Posted By: Anduril
Originally Posted By: thr_wedge
Selling the Volvo and NOT towing with the S-10 blazer were the best decisions. Cheers!

But now we don't get to know what would have happened
frown.gif



There will be a 3rd Volvo. I just don't know when.
 
And, as stated previously.. An S-10 can be a good tow vehicle, with its powerful engine and higher weight vs a Cherokee.

35.gif
whistle.gif
 
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