what is the "proper" way to use one of these?? pound on it until the joint separates, or wedge it in there really good and then pry?
ball joint fork question
- Thread starter Jakegday
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Wedge it in there and pry
I "pound it in" until it separates - its a wedge - thats how wedges work. Take care to not do damage to your idlers. Its a good idea to remove the crown nut on the tie rod - it come off earier this way (he he)
If you are separating A-arm ball joints - I just back off the crown nut until it is a couple thread above the ball joint bolt and hammer on the crown nut - ive never needed a pickle fork here.
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Pry? Not a chance.
You wedge the pickle fork it in there and pound.
Use a HEAVY hammer, or a sledge with the handle cut off. One or two manly whacks will separate it.
If there is a problem, you can soak the joint with loose juice first, and bang on the knuckle around the joint to help loosen it.
BTW, a good whack with your heavy hammer right on the stud will usually pop it out.
You wedge the pickle fork it in there and pound.
Use a HEAVY hammer, or a sledge with the handle cut off. One or two manly whacks will separate it.
If there is a problem, you can soak the joint with loose juice first, and bang on the knuckle around the joint to help loosen it.
BTW, a good whack with your heavy hammer right on the stud will usually pop it out.
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BTW, a good whack with your heavy hammer right on the stud will usually pop it out.
Agreed. I'm no fan of pickle-forks, personally- and I rarely find them necessary. They generally destroy the boot, and those aren't really replaceable on lots of suspension components.
I find that a well-placed whack with a hammer will free most taper fits. You just whack the piece that the taper fits into, and it'll often just fall out. An assortment of heavy drifts helps with this method. And when it isn't possible to hit solidly on the piece that the taper fits into, it often works well enough to loosen the ball-joint nut and hit the nut with a hammer.
Now, all this advice should be taken with a grain of salt seeings how most of my experience in these matters is on heavy trucks, tractors, and the like. But the same methods have always worked fine for me in automotive applications too.
BTW, a good whack with your heavy hammer right on the stud will usually pop it out.
Agreed. I'm no fan of pickle-forks, personally- and I rarely find them necessary. They generally destroy the boot, and those aren't really replaceable on lots of suspension components.
I find that a well-placed whack with a hammer will free most taper fits. You just whack the piece that the taper fits into, and it'll often just fall out. An assortment of heavy drifts helps with this method. And when it isn't possible to hit solidly on the piece that the taper fits into, it often works well enough to loosen the ball-joint nut and hit the nut with a hammer.
Now, all this advice should be taken with a grain of salt seeings how most of my experience in these matters is on heavy trucks, tractors, and the like. But the same methods have always worked fine for me in automotive applications too.
mechtech 2 and I agree so much I may change my name to mechtech3 !!!
I would think any competant mechanic would do most standard jobs the same way with a few minor differences for personalities' sake
Now engine building - thas a whole nuther basket of possum heads ...
You could always buy a set like this one and be able to remove parts without damage,nice set for the money.
http://www.tooltopia.com/otc-tools-6295....=googlebase_18u
http://www.tooltopia.com/otc-tools-6295....=googlebase_18u
BTW, Doing ball joints is a very dangerous job. Sometimes when it lets go the spring will make things move so fast and with such power that other things get hit and fly. It may not seam like much but if a finger or more gets hit you will find out real quick that flesh is no match for metal that is moving fast.
Many a mechanic (some that have done that job for many years) end up going to the emergency room and also spending a month after with a disabled hand or arm.
We heated some flat bars and put J ends on each end and would place two or three of these on a spring before doing a ball joint. Even with that we would place bricks under the lower A frame, and never get any body part any closer than required.
One guy still managed to bust up a hand, and he was one of the best mechanics.
Many a mechanic (some that have done that job for many years) end up going to the emergency room and also spending a month after with a disabled hand or arm.
We heated some flat bars and put J ends on each end and would place two or three of these on a spring before doing a ball joint. Even with that we would place bricks under the lower A frame, and never get any body part any closer than required.
One guy still managed to bust up a hand, and he was one of the best mechanics.
If the ball joint doesn't fall out on its own,It's not ready for replacement.
Seriously,a few good blows to the fork,and the ball joint should separate.
You'll need the car on jack stands,and a floor jack under the control arm assembly.
Seriously,a few good blows to the fork,and the ball joint should separate.
You'll need the car on jack stands,and a floor jack under the control arm assembly.
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Loosen the castle nut but don't take it all the way off. IF something wants to move fast due to the spring or whatever, the castle nut will help to catch it.
This was a big help when I did mine and is a good safety measure.
I used a pickle fork and hit it with a 3lbs. sledge. If you can get it up on a rack for clearance (I don't have one), hitting the stud might work.
This was a big help when I did mine and is a good safety measure.
I used a pickle fork and hit it with a 3lbs. sledge. If you can get it up on a rack for clearance (I don't have one), hitting the stud might work.
"If you are separating A-arm ball joints - I just back off the crown nut until it is a couple thread above the ball joint bolt and hammer on the crown nut"
Why didn't you tell me this 12 years ago when I pounded and pounded on this very bolt and mushroomed it so bad that we had to hacksaw it off? Lesson learned, needless to say......
I used a pickle fork once and it tore up the boot.
Why didn't you tell me this 12 years ago when I pounded and pounded on this very bolt and mushroomed it so bad that we had to hacksaw it off? Lesson learned, needless to say......
I used a pickle fork once and it tore up the boot.
Originally Posted By: StevieC
Wedge it in there and pry
That must take a long time.....
although it would be a good muscle building excercise!
Wedge it in there and pry
That must take a long time.....
although it would be a good muscle building excercise!
I just whack the pickle fork. As far as tearing the boot, if im taking it a part, chances are the joint is going to be replaced so the boot is of no concern. In a situation where the joint will be reused, I would just rent or buy a press.
I was told this by an excellent mechanic, long ago- use the fork-type separator *Only* if you plan to replace the ball joint, & discard the old one. According to him, you might not ruin the boot- but it's nothing to count on.
The few times I've done this, I used one of those slide-on C-frame separators and leave the nut on the ball joint but loosened; crank the separator tight- and then one rap with a hammer does it. Of course, down here we don't have road salt.
The few times I've done this, I used one of those slide-on C-frame separators and leave the nut on the ball joint but loosened; crank the separator tight- and then one rap with a hammer does it. Of course, down here we don't have road salt.
Also be aware that some ball joints are not tapered fit. They have a crossbolt and pinch system.
No pickle fork is needed.
Tie rod ends are tapered fit, for sure.
No pickle fork is needed.
Tie rod ends are tapered fit, for sure.
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