Bad Strut.. what happens now?

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I took my car in so they can fix my Rear Spindle.. they called up saying that I also have a bad Strut. I didnt' notice anything wrong performance wise, i turn normal.. Bumps are cushioned, nothings bouncy. they told me its 400 bucks to fix...
 
I'd deny it and check the strut myself to be sure.
$400 seems like a lot if it does need changing. They're easy to change and struts are usually only about $100 each. I don't know though; repairs done by someone else alway sound expensive to me.
Also, I like to do struts and shocks in pairs.
What type of vehicle?
 
it might be on the high side of a ballpark figure - even if they installed monroe on it, it would have their markup, figure $100 each. add installation $50 each. add alignment $65. ttl $365. the price always seems high to have the work farmed out, especially if you can do it yourself. but if the unit goes bad on the installation, they have to eat the cost of the labor as they will probably guarantee it for a period of time.
how many miles on the car? 6 years old, i would think the struts would be suspect at this time. i bet hyundai didn't put a quality strut back there.
i've driven other peeple's cars - on the older ones, i could tell the handling/suspension was getting loose. they think its normal, but just have gotten used to it, as it degrades gradually.
 
spring over the strut is one of the reasons why installation for struts is more expensive than for shocks. i've done it myself once, pia. Farm it out next time.
 
spring install tool (to compress and keep it compressed) helps tremendously and is pretty easy to use. Many parts houses rent them free if you buy your struts there.
 
yeah, what kenw said. You can go to your local Autozone (or whatever is in your area) and borrow one for a small deposit.

It does help to have an impact for removing the nut on the top of the strut assembly though.
 
And to chip in, if you have not replaced a strut before, and not used a spring compressor before, either farm it out or get someone experienced to help you. Compressed springs and struts minus a retaining nut make for an accident waiting to happen when something slips. Even in a really good shop with experienced techs, a spring would fly across the floor about once a year.
 
Strut might be leaking a bit... Probably good for anouther few 10s of 1000s of miles. This is just an easy, high profit job for the shop. I vote to deny and DIY as requred.
 
A strut is a shock and spring unit used to replace an upper control arm.

A strut has a shock in it.

Some struts can have the shock R&R'd, usually front struts. Some, usually rear, the shock and lower spring perch are all one unit and need R&R'd together.

Typical shocks are not combined with a spring, like on leaf-spring and coil spring suspensions with both upper & lower control arms.

Many FWD & AWD cars are getting away from the strut reat suspension in favor of a shorter/stiffer & extern shock set-up in order to minimize lost trunk space.
 
I dunno but I've heard that there's a little blue pill that will stiffen a soft strut in short order. . .
wink.gif


Seriously though, I concur with the above posts regarding the differences. Given these numbers, I'd get a second opinion and/or shop around for a good installation for less, if it's really needed.
cheers.gif
 
quote:

Originally posted by Willy_G:
Typical shocks are not combined with a spring, like on leaf-spring and coil spring suspensions with both upper & lower control arms.

There is also a 'coil-over' shock that looks like a strut, but still has upper control arms. But then again, they aren't typical and I do prefer them because they don't have that bearing in the upper mount that went bad on the strut equipped cars I had.
 
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