Bad RP experience/changing back to Mobil 1

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I`ve had this past fill of M1 10W40HM for almost 4000 miles (sending a sample to Blackstone tomorrow). BEST oil I`ve ever used,runs smooth as silk! I had 4 1/2 quarts of RP 10W40 in my stash that I`d had for awhile,was going to use it in my gf`s Olds,but decided to use it in my Z this oci.

Installed it today along with a Wix filter,started it up,and had about 30 seconds of loud lifter tick. I was like,woah what the heck????? I took it out on a 20 mile drive,and all the pep was gone,and it literally felt like I was pulling a trailer! This is not an RP bash,but just me sharing an experience. Why the heck did it make my car behave that way? Anywho,RP drained (I`ll use it in my mowers,etc. I do landscaping as a side job),M1 back in,car is smooth and fast just like before :^)
 
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Back when I own a mustang, I put in RP for tranny and rear end, 1k miles later it having problem shifting, I take to ford and they drain the tranny and it look like water. I search the mustang forum and some have same problem fluid come out like water. ford put wat ever in it and it shift right again, I drain the rear end and put in mobil 1. Never use rp again. Mabe work for other, just not me -_-
 
Originally Posted By: MetalSlug
Back when I own a mustang, I put in RP for tranny and rear end, 1k miles later it having problem shifting, I take to ford and they drain the tranny and it look like water. I search the mustang forum and some have same problem fluid come out like water. ford put wat ever in it and it shift right again, I drain the rear end and put in mobil 1. Never use rp again. Mabe work for other, just not me -_-


The RP might have not been the right grade or the right additive package for your particular rear end, not all fluids work with all rear ends, people mess this up constantly. Additive packages play a huge part in how the rear end holds up. As far as the trans, depends on what mustang you have you might have actually required automatic tranny fluid and used the wrong fluid or something. Ive never had an issue with RP oil or tranny fluid, and their oil made a world of difference in my friends mustang.
 
It can take awhile for an oil to work at it's best when switching from one oil to the next. Keep that in mind.
 
Originally Posted By: INDYMAC
4 1/2 quarts? Maybe you didn't put enough engine oil in there?


I give aquariuscsm credit for knowing how much oil to put in his engine.
Nissan V6's are known for having small sump volumes.

Interesting anecdote, though, because I am a fan of Mobil 1 HM oils.
But one question: Why did you dump the M1 HM at only 4000 miles? I think you could go 7500 easily on that oil.
 
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Odd, did you use the same filter when changing back to M1? Reading it you said RP drained, so I'm guessing you used the same filter, if so it had to be the oil then.
 
Originally Posted By: demarpaint
Odd, did you use the same filter when changing back to M1? Reading it you said RP drained, so I'm guessing you used the same filter, if so it had to be the oil then.


I used the same Wix filter when I installed the RP. I immediately FREAKED when I turned the key and heard that loud ticking which seemed to go on forever! Had a faint ticking as well once up to operating temp. Since I had no extra filter laying around,on the way home from my "test drive",I stopped by Walmart and bought a Fram TG. I didn`t leave the Wix from the RP oil change on,as I wanted as much of the RP out of the engine as possible (just realized what you were asking me when I was typing just now :^P ). While good and hot,the engine felt VERY sluggish. Same oil viscosity as the M1(10W40) and exact same oil filter (Wix). The RP also felt very thin and watery between the fingers,whereas the M1 fely oily and sticky. Could it be the RP 10W40 was mislabeled and a lighter viscosity was in the bottles? Could I have gotten ahold of a bad batch? Who knows. All I know is that my engine has never ticked,and had never felt that sluggish before,and I`ve had this car for 7 years,so I know it inside and out. I just feel like I wasted 50 bucks and an hour of my time :^(
 
Originally Posted By: INDYMAC
4 1/2 quarts? Maybe you didn't put enough engine oil in there?


That's about the right amount to put in the Z32. Personally I put in 5 quarts and call it a day since mine has a small leak on the rear main seal that needs to be fixed. I personally have never heard good things about RP after 2,000 miles as it "seems" to turn really thin for some reason. I'm telling you Shell Rotella T6 is the smoothest oil I have run in my Z32 since I have owned it. Every Mobil 1 product I have used makes mine have pretty noisy lifter tick.
 
Originally Posted By: ChattZX
Originally Posted By: INDYMAC
4 1/2 quarts? Maybe you didn't put enough engine oil in there?


That's about the right amount to put in the Z32. Personally I put in 5 quarts and call it a day since mine has a small leak on the rear main seal that needs to be fixed. I personally have never heard good things about RP after 2,000 miles as it "seems" to turn really thin for some reason. I'm telling you Shell Rotella T6 is the smoothest oil I have run in my Z32 since I have owned it. Every Mobil 1 product I have used makes mine have pretty noisy lifter tick.


^^Yep :^) I had a guy named Z-Doc (this guy who works on Z cars only) tell me the same thing. Just put in all 5 quarts and it won`t hurt a thing. I think the FSM spec is 4 1/2 for the n/a and 4 5/8 for the TT. Rotella,I`ve never thought about that one. What weights does it come in? Isn`t there 10W30,5W40,and 15W40? What weight do you use?
 
Yeah,it literally freaked me out. I drove like 40mph the whole way home,as to not get the rpms up too high. It just didn`t feel "right".
 
Are you sure it was not more like pulling a Baby Grand Piano, like the Castrol GTX commercial? Sorry, just being stupid again.
 
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So, you did change the oil filter with the RP drop, if it was the oil perhaps it could be the additive package(perhaps the 'high pressure' additive RP uses???), allowing for more valvetrain noise, etc? I doubt it did serious damage in of itself, though, the oil that is, but perhaps your app didn't like RP's additive package somehow?
 
It there any chance that you got a bad Wix filter (manufacturing defect perhaps). The two events are confounded. How do you know it was the oil?
 
Gosh,I just don`t know. But the lifter tapping freaked me out,and the engine ran rough and sluggish,as though it wasn`t getting enough lubricity. I looked into the oil fill hole during idle and the cam was covered in an oil bath,so it was definitely getting plenty of oil flow.
 
Not trying to bash or anything like that. But it could be a placebo effect. Once you heard the startup ticking, your mind convinced itself that the entire oil change was no good at all and was making you feel something that really wasn't there.
It happens a lot on this forum. Again, not doubting you, just mentioning another possibility.
 
I am confused now??? Did you reuse the Wix filter that was on there when you put the RP in or did you use the Fram filter when you put the M1 in?

My 1st thought is if you changed filters when you took the RP out this is a filter issue not an oil issue. Sounds like something inside of it was failed up. A mfg defect of some type. Has there not been a lot of posting and discussions recently about Wix filter quality going downhill?

If you reused the Wix filter and just put in M1 oil then I would say your application just did not like the RP oil in that weight.
 
It was a complete oil/filter change. I used the same model of Wix filter that I`d used with the previous oci,which was Mobil 1. Yeah,I`ve been reading up on the Wix defects lately,so I`ll probably stay with Fram TG`s. It definitely blew my mind,because my car LOVED the RP 20W50 that I used when I did my first uoa. RP does seem to be on the thinner side of the viscosity spectrum. That RP 10W40 seemed VERY thin.
 
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