Impressive 14,000views. Never would have thought.
Back w another question...motors
- Thread starter southernjeeper
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There are a lot of folks interested in how people pick out botas. This ain't like going to the local Ford dealer and kicking tires ...
Turns out I did not buy a Tohatsu. Would have, but came up with a low time OMC 3-cyl 70Hp that was retired from the Navy Depot at Rough & Ready Island. The guy that did the engine swap for them, brought it home and went through the service stuff. Runs good - $1,500
It's enough for my hull. Seeing as the money saved allowed me and my boatin buddy to come up with a 16' Marlin deep V hull and a 150HP V-4 'Rude with TnT for a "quick" boat for the "boys" to play in, just could not say no... Figure that one will be knocking on 50 mph on a calm day on the Petaluma River
A few hard lemonades to tune the day up and put on your helmets and float coats boys
Will prolly be running it with the centerline of the gear-case at about 3" below the hull bottom and ventilated Raker 4 blade ... May have to fab a water pick-up to feed the pump as the OEM water pick-up for the motor will be in the spray zone and may starve the motor. The V-4's like to overheat easily. Don't want to be building power heads ... We'll set the transom bolts so that it the lowest position and can go up in increments from there.
One similar set-up out here is running the shaft at 2" below bull bottom and pushing 60 MPH. But, we'll sneak up on that
I agree with the other who said to budget for a Jack Plate. Being able to pick the motor up (especially with only 2 on board) can make a huge difference in "appendage drag" with wastes fuel and speed. The biggest lump under the boat dragging through the water is the gear case ...
But, there are real downsides to running smaller gear cases with higher ratio gears like bearings blowing out and gear failure. I'd always take the low (bigger) gears and swing a bigger prop (the 70 3-cyl was a commercial model with the V-4 gear case) with more blade area. If hole shot needs a tune-up you can usually find a pattern to vent the leading side of the prop. Once up and running, it makes no difference if jacked-up because the prop is partially vented anyway
SS is the only way to go for what you are doing. Rake and blade count are boat/motor/rpm dependent.
Turns out I did not buy a Tohatsu. Would have, but came up with a low time OMC 3-cyl 70Hp that was retired from the Navy Depot at Rough & Ready Island. The guy that did the engine swap for them, brought it home and went through the service stuff. Runs good - $1,500
It's enough for my hull. Seeing as the money saved allowed me and my boatin buddy to come up with a 16' Marlin deep V hull and a 150HP V-4 'Rude with TnT for a "quick" boat for the "boys" to play in, just could not say no... Figure that one will be knocking on 50 mph on a calm day on the Petaluma River
A few hard lemonades to tune the day up and put on your helmets and float coats boys
Will prolly be running it with the centerline of the gear-case at about 3" below the hull bottom and ventilated Raker 4 blade ... May have to fab a water pick-up to feed the pump as the OEM water pick-up for the motor will be in the spray zone and may starve the motor. The V-4's like to overheat easily. Don't want to be building power heads ... We'll set the transom bolts so that it the lowest position and can go up in increments from there.
One similar set-up out here is running the shaft at 2" below bull bottom and pushing 60 MPH. But, we'll sneak up on that
I agree with the other who said to budget for a Jack Plate. Being able to pick the motor up (especially with only 2 on board) can make a huge difference in "appendage drag" with wastes fuel and speed. The biggest lump under the boat dragging through the water is the gear case ...
But, there are real downsides to running smaller gear cases with higher ratio gears like bearings blowing out and gear failure. I'd always take the low (bigger) gears and swing a bigger prop (the 70 3-cyl was a commercial model with the V-4 gear case) with more blade area. If hole shot needs a tune-up you can usually find a pattern to vent the leading side of the prop. Once up and running, it makes no difference if jacked-up because the prop is partially vented anyway
SS is the only way to go for what you are doing. Rake and blade count are boat/motor/rpm dependent.
For every onlooker of this topic. Is someone that would have bought my old bumper sticker and now my new bumper sticker ten fold.
That is why I bumped the thread.
Boats I have considered really cool. A plug for Avenger and Sportsman boats. The Avenger 26 foot with the 350 v8 Yamaha (rated for a 400hp) was a fun outing for a charter trip I went on several weeks ago. Avenger makes a 26, 24footer. Then they are making a 25' bay center console, too.
That is why I bumped the thread.
Boats I have considered really cool. A plug for Avenger and Sportsman boats. The Avenger 26 foot with the 350 v8 Yamaha (rated for a 400hp) was a fun outing for a charter trip I went on several weeks ago. Avenger makes a 26, 24footer. Then they are making a 25' bay center console, too.
Side note.
Fords are what keep auto mechanics in business.
Just saying.
Fords are what keep auto mechanics in business.
Just saying.
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