Auxiliary ATF filter; bypass or full flow?

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Originally Posted By: DoubleWasp
Originally Posted By: stchman
Filters on automatic transmissions are essentially a waste. Since an automatic transmission is a closed system, the inside stays clean. Automatic transmissions don't burn fuel or suck in large amounts of air so external contaminants are not being introduced. An automatic transmission's worst enemy is heat, keep the fluid cool and change it per manufacturer's recommendation.


The system is capable of building up solid contaminants from the clutches. Changing the fluid actually increases these contaminants significantly, which is why a fluid change is the perfect time to install a filter.



For the third time, there is an external filter! http://www.mdxers.org/forums/73-first-ge...r-pictures.html
 
Originally Posted By: Gasbuggy
Originally Posted By: DoubleWasp
Originally Posted By: stchman
Filters on automatic transmissions are essentially a waste. Since an automatic transmission is a closed system, the inside stays clean. Automatic transmissions don't burn fuel or suck in large amounts of air so external contaminants are not being introduced. An automatic transmission's worst enemy is heat, keep the fluid cool and change it per manufacturer's recommendation.


The system is capable of building up solid contaminants from the clutches. Changing the fluid actually increases these contaminants significantly, which is why a fluid change is the perfect time to install a filter.



For the third time, there is an external filter! http://www.mdxers.org/forums/73-first-ge...r-pictures.html


According to your link, there are people with 06's that do not have an external filter.
21.gif
 
back on topic, I would suggest full flow. A bypass requires a certain amount of pressure to allow the bypass to have a pressure differential. Most cooling loops don't carry much pressure at all. I think I read somewhere that 6psi is typical. On another spec recently I read the cooling loop in one particular make (I think it was the aisin 5-speed for the volvo) was rated 30psi max. Now- 20-30 psi might be adequate to work a bypass, but 6 definitely not. For that reason I just use full flow. Our MDX has a magnefine, the truck uses an external spin-on, and the chrysler we just sold had a magnefine. No issues with any of them.
 
-Filters on automatic transmissions are essentially a waste-
This is the biggest joke I have herd on BITOG - Any automatic trans produces 10 times the amount of particulate compared to an engine.

Secondary filtration systems help keep the system clean. Particles and solenoids do not play well together.
 
Originally Posted By: nicholas
Secondary filtration systems help keep the system clean. Particles and solenoids do not play well together.

While it is true the trans is a generally cleaner-running closed environment, it's offset by their much greater sensitivity to contamination.
 
Originally Posted By: DoubleWasp
Originally Posted By: stchman
Filters on automatic transmissions are essentially a waste. Since an automatic transmission is a closed system, the inside stays clean. Automatic transmissions don't burn fuel or suck in large amounts of air so external contaminants are not being introduced. An automatic transmission's worst enemy is heat, keep the fluid cool and change it per manufacturer's recommendation.


The system is capable of building up solid contaminants from the clutches. Changing the fluid actually increases these contaminants significantly, which is why a fluid change is the perfect time to install a filter.


A fluid change increases contaminants?
 
Originally Posted By: dlundblad


A fluid change increases contaminants?


I would think that depends. If a drain and fill was done via drain plug, only 1/3 of old ATF was exchanged. Fresh ATF could loosen contaminants that had settled out. Now if you drop the pan and change the filter and exchange all the ATF now I am not sure a fluid change would increase contaminants. However an inline filter is always a good idea.
 
Originally Posted By: dlundblad
Originally Posted By: DoubleWasp
Originally Posted By: stchman
Filters on automatic transmissions are essentially a waste. Since an automatic transmission is a closed system, the inside stays clean. Automatic transmissions don't burn fuel or suck in large amounts of air so external contaminants are not being introduced. An automatic transmission's worst enemy is heat, keep the fluid cool and change it per manufacturer's recommendation.


The system is capable of building up solid contaminants from the clutches. Changing the fluid actually increases these contaminants significantly, which is why a fluid change is the perfect time to install a filter.


A fluid change increases contaminants?


Go back and read the info from a Sonnax engineer.
 
Originally Posted By: Donald
Originally Posted By: dlundblad


A fluid change increases contaminants?


I would think that depends. If a drain and fill was done via drain plug, only 1/3 of old ATF was exchanged. Fresh ATF could loosen contaminants that had settled out. Now if you drop the pan and change the filter and exchange all the ATF now I am not sure a fluid change would increase contaminants. However an inline filter is always a good idea.


Same case. No matter how you change it, there is a very good possibility circulating contaminants will rise.
 
The Magnefine filter has a nice big magnet inside that catches a LOT of the material from the clutches inside the transmission.
I have used these for years and this is what I see when I open up the old ones that I have replaced.
Also, this filter has a pressure bypass in case the filter media becomes clogged.

[img:left]https://www.flickr.com/photos/41574862@N08/8255120549/in/album-72157632198092975/[/img]

In the picture, fluid enters from the right, flows over the magnet (the big washer) and then through the filter media.

If you already have a filter, I would replace it.
If you do NOT have a filter, I would install it in the fluid RETURN line (flowing From the cooler into the transmission) so that it will catch any particles that are lodged inside the cooler that work loose.

If you go with a external mount type with a spin on filter.
I would add magnets to the outside of the spin on filter case to catch the ferrous particles.
 
A synthetic microglass full flow spin on certainly last a long time. You would be changing it because the can will start to rust before you load it up.
 
Originally Posted By: 901Memphis
A synthetic microglass full flow spin on certainly last a long time. You would be changing it because the can will start to rust before you load it up.


Exactly. If a tiny Magnefine takes tens of thousands of miles to load, then how long would it take to load an XG8? Fuggedaboutit.

Rust, critical component failure, contamination, or feeling the need to do a "complete" fluid exchange by changing the filter too would be the only reasons.
 
Originally Posted By: DoubleWasp
Originally Posted By: 901Memphis
A synthetic microglass full flow spin on certainly last a long time. You would be changing it because the can will start to rust before you load it up.


Exactly. If a tiny Magnefine takes tens of thousands of miles to load, then how long would it take to load an XG8? Fuggedaboutit.

Rust, critical component failure, contamination, or feeling the need to do a "complete" fluid exchange by changing the filter too would be the only reasons.


I prefer the XG3980 or XG3600
 
Any idea of the average size of the particles that are created in the typical AT? **Most** of the better spin-on filters will readily capture 20um and I have read somewhere the average AT filter only grabs about 60um. I am considering a remote filter setup on my PSD transmission and am torn between using a XG5 (no bypass) and a XG8A (bypass). I am leaning towards the XG8A simply in case the filter would ever plug. But I have admit something would have to be REALLY wrong for that to happen or the filter would be left on for too long.
 
Originally Posted By: 2015_PSD
Any idea of the average size of the particles that are created in the typical AT? **Most** of the better spin-on filters will readily capture 20um and I have read somewhere the average AT filter only grabs about 60um. I am considering a remote filter setup on my PSD transmission and am torn between using a XG5 (no bypass) and a XG8A (bypass). I am leaning towards the XG8A simply in case the filter would ever plug. But I have admit something would have to be REALLY wrong for that to happen or the filter would be left on for too long.


First of all, thanks for the dipstick.
wink.gif


No harm in leaning on the safe side and using the XG8A, but the XG5 would take an incredibly long time to plug. The stock spin-on filters in our 68RFE transmissions are not nearly the size of the XG5, and do not plug even after 100K.

Your truck should die with the XG5 mounted to it.

If you want even better cleaning with no chance of clogging, I'm about to convert a Super Duty's Ford/NTZ bypass filter for universal use over the weekend. Sub-micron bypass filtering, as used on previous Super Duties.

If it turns out well, I'll post the whole project. I'm going to take samples of my trans fluid at 100, 500, 1000, and 1500 miles for UOA to see how well she scrubs. Probably going to add one to power steering as well. Hydroboost can be real sensitive about particles.
 
Originally Posted By: DoubleWasp
The stock spin-on filters in our 68RFE transmissions are not nearly the size of the XG5, and do not plug even after 100K.
Which of your vehicles has this filter? I have a 6R140W in my PSD.

PS...You are quite welcome!
 
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