Automotive paint?
- Thread starter R18Civic
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Premixed? That will probably only be a lacquer paint. If this is for the 09 buick lacquer is just not not be be the right choice.
I believe www.paintscratch.com will put whatever you want in a paint can. (you didn’t give us enough info to actually look it up - they don’t show that color on an 09 lacrosse)
Short of that a local automotive paint store will probably mix it “ready to spray”.
Short of that a local automotive paint store will probably mix it “ready to spray”.
Hi—try www.automotivetouchup.com. I have had luck buying quantities of various sizes including ready-mix spray cans.
Most of your automotive paint stores can mix it for you and put it in a spray can or you can get pints, quarts, and gallons. Just be aware it will not match just painting the hood. If it's a tri-color, even more luck to you.
I was able to do each sides of my S10 with a quart of paint and clear.
I was able to do each sides of my S10 with a quart of paint and clear.
I think some / most paint stores have a device that optically " reads " the color . After all , most / all paints fade with time .
Originally Posted By: Hemispheres
I want to repaint my hood, but despite having the proper color codes I can’t find anything online other than touchup paint.
The color is GM Sport Red Metallic.
Anyone know where I can grab some pre-mixed?
I haven't used this base but have used the SprayMax 2K clear #3680061 and it is great. Base is usually never a problem so I imagine this is good stuff also.
https://repaintsupply.com/wa817k-sport-red-metallic-p4309.html
I want to repaint my hood, but despite having the proper color codes I can’t find anything online other than touchup paint.
The color is GM Sport Red Metallic.
Anyone know where I can grab some pre-mixed?
I haven't used this base but have used the SprayMax 2K clear #3680061 and it is great. Base is usually never a problem so I imagine this is good stuff also.
https://repaintsupply.com/wa817k-sport-red-metallic-p4309.html
General automotive paint question: Have formulations evolved to the point where baking the interior plastics into a brittle mess is no longer required?
No telling what the car companies do now , but from what I hear , the repair shops mostly use 2 part color coat ( think about the 2 parts of epoxy glue ) . Do not know about the clear coat ?
But , what I have described is safe to drive , I think , in a few hours . If not sooner . I would not wash or wax it for a few months , but that is me .
I am told the 2 part paint is very toxic . DO NOT breath it .
Best of luck to you ,
But , what I have described is safe to drive , I think , in a few hours . If not sooner . I would not wash or wax it for a few months , but that is me .
I am told the 2 part paint is very toxic . DO NOT breath it .
Best of luck to you ,
Originally Posted By: funflyer
I haven't used this base but have used the SprayMax 2K clear #3680061 and it is great. Base is usually never a problem so I imagine this is good stuff also.
https://repaintsupply.com/wa817k-sport-red-metallic-p4309.html
That SprayMax stuff is quite good, I sprayed my road bike with their 2K clear after it came back from the powder coaters.
Most auto body supply shops will mix a solvent basecoat in a spray can - the UPOL and SprayMax cans do spray like a spray gun. It will be the mid-grade or high-end stuff in most cases, I've had the local PPG supplier mix me up a spray can and they've used Deltron 2000(DBC) instead of Omni. Waterborne can also be put in a spray can too.
I haven't used this base but have used the SprayMax 2K clear #3680061 and it is great. Base is usually never a problem so I imagine this is good stuff also.
https://repaintsupply.com/wa817k-sport-red-metallic-p4309.html
That SprayMax stuff is quite good, I sprayed my road bike with their 2K clear after it came back from the powder coaters.
Most auto body supply shops will mix a solvent basecoat in a spray can - the UPOL and SprayMax cans do spray like a spray gun. It will be the mid-grade or high-end stuff in most cases, I've had the local PPG supplier mix me up a spray can and they've used Deltron 2000(DBC) instead of Omni. Waterborne can also be put in a spray can too.
Originally Posted By: Hemispheres
Alright got everything selected, question now is with the base and color mixed in one can, is it wise to use primer seeing as Ill be sanding everything down and will the store bought automotive primer arisol be up to snuff.
no, you want to use separate base and clearcoat - unless you meant to say base color which is basecoat in bodyman lingo.
Some of those "automotive" spec primers in a spray can from Dupli-Color and Plasti-Kote or Rust-Oleum are 1K lacquer-based primers that may not play nice with your selected basecoat - they either shrink, don't have good gloss "holdout" for the clearcoat or worst case scenario wrinkle as soon as you apply the basecoat on.
I've used this with success under a proper basecoat: https://www.spraymax.com/en-us/products/product/primer-primer-filler/2k-epoxy-primer-1/
This can work as well: https://www.semproducts.com/product/ez-coattm
Alright got everything selected, question now is with the base and color mixed in one can, is it wise to use primer seeing as Ill be sanding everything down and will the store bought automotive primer arisol be up to snuff.
no, you want to use separate base and clearcoat - unless you meant to say base color which is basecoat in bodyman lingo.
Some of those "automotive" spec primers in a spray can from Dupli-Color and Plasti-Kote or Rust-Oleum are 1K lacquer-based primers that may not play nice with your selected basecoat - they either shrink, don't have good gloss "holdout" for the clearcoat or worst case scenario wrinkle as soon as you apply the basecoat on.
I've used this with success under a proper basecoat: https://www.spraymax.com/en-us/products/product/primer-primer-filler/2k-epoxy-primer-1/
This can work as well: https://www.semproducts.com/product/ez-coattm
Good news: Paint was mailed to me as a perfect match. Thank you to chartrue2 for the recommendation.
![[Linked Image]](https://s33.postimg.cc/c2z0sqecv/6_BDAEE72-8184-4_B4_B-86_F8-_F7_E61_CCB000_E.jpg "[Linked Image]")
Now for the really bad news.... Last Fri I grabbed my HF HLVP Spray Gun but when I get back in the car I've got a god awful rattling noise. Cut open the filter and 200 mi into a fresh oil change (had a stuck filter that gave me no choice but the cut it off) the bearings went out. Thought I wiped away all the shavings but I that wasn't the case, gonna need a short block.
At least the hood is already coming off, and I managed to snag a new stand and hoist on ebay for about $120.
Toast....
![[Linked Image]](https://s33.postimg.cc/6u3zuwlnz/AE9_B649_D-_BAEE-4649-_B865-00_CC5_DB3_EFD2.jpg "[Linked Image]")
Now for the really bad news.... Last Fri I grabbed my HF HLVP Spray Gun but when I get back in the car I've got a god awful rattling noise. Cut open the filter and 200 mi into a fresh oil change (had a stuck filter that gave me no choice but the cut it off) the bearings went out. Thought I wiped away all the shavings but I that wasn't the case, gonna need a short block.
At least the hood is already coming off, and I managed to snag a new stand and hoist on ebay for about $120.
Toast....
This just keeps getting weirder and weirder. I had someone give it a quick look over and the top end isn't getting much oil and suddenly the knocking noise went away after intermittently occurring. The car has been sitting since Wednesday.
The first time it made noise it sounded more like lifter clatter then progressed into the hollow knock which only occurred after the engine had been warmed up, and left to sit for a few minutes after. Once started again the knock was present from idle up to 2k rpm.
He recommended a new oil pump stating it might save the engine, but how does that reverse all the metal shavings that's come off the internals?
The first time it made noise it sounded more like lifter clatter then progressed into the hollow knock which only occurred after the engine had been warmed up, and left to sit for a few minutes after. Once started again the knock was present from idle up to 2k rpm.
He recommended a new oil pump stating it might save the engine, but how does that reverse all the metal shavings that's come off the internals?
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