Is there a particular brand of oil with a better detergent profile that would work best during the rinse phase of Auto Rx use??
Or not to worry?
Or not to worry?
Auto Rx Rinse Oil
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So basically a high detergent oil is not need in the rinse phase. I have some cheap stuff laying around that is SL and have a good excuse to use it now.
Thank you.
Thank you.
I use whatever conventional oil is on sale. Right now, Valvoline in is being used for the rinse phase in our Honda Civic.
Use the oil you have laying around, it'll be just fine.
It doesn,t. Why not go to the Auto-Rx website ? and click on oil (middle of home page) and do it right so you get results you paid for.
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do it right so you get results you paid for
Frank, no offense (I just had 2 bottles arrive this week, thank you), but your answers drive us OCD people crazy.
When searching here and your ARX forum, it seems that ANY conventional oil will "do it right"(non-high mileage, etc.). Besides it's name and marketing, I would consider Mobil Clean 5,000 to be in the catagory of conventionals that would also include Castrol GTX, Pennzoil Dino, Valvolene, and on and on.
But then, you keep hinting (Mobil Clean 5000...."It doesn't").... that Valvolene (same $ as PZ/Castrol) or gyppo SuperTech/Coastal,etc. are the oils of choice.
So, finally, what is the answer? ANY conventional oil? Or, is there some rhyme or reason to the Valvolene/Wallyworld/Coastal recommendation?
Is my $10/5qt. Pennzoil Dino just o.k., or will Coastal actually be better?
Thank you!
do it right so you get results you paid for
Frank, no offense (I just had 2 bottles arrive this week, thank you), but your answers drive us OCD people crazy.
When searching here and your ARX forum, it seems that ANY conventional oil will "do it right"(non-high mileage, etc.). Besides it's name and marketing, I would consider Mobil Clean 5,000 to be in the catagory of conventionals that would also include Castrol GTX, Pennzoil Dino, Valvolene, and on and on.
But then, you keep hinting (Mobil Clean 5000...."It doesn't").... that Valvolene (same $ as PZ/Castrol) or gyppo SuperTech/Coastal,etc. are the oils of choice.
So, finally, what is the answer? ANY conventional oil? Or, is there some rhyme or reason to the Valvolene/Wallyworld/Coastal recommendation?
Is my $10/5qt. Pennzoil Dino just o.k., or will Coastal actually be better?
Thank you!
Did you find this confusing and if so how? it is right off the home page of http://www.auto-rx.com.
Notes On Choosing An Engine Oil For Use With Auto-Rx®
Auto-Rx® works with generally the least expensive motor oil available.
Conventional engine oils include Valvoline Conventional, SuperTech (available at Wal-Mart), and Coastal (available at AutoZone).
Group III Oil,s which include Pennzoil Platinum, Castrol Syntec, and Valvoline Synpower work well also
Use of high-mileage engine oils should be avoided during all Clean and Rinse Phases. However, high-mileage engine oils can be used while following an Auto-Rx® maintenance plan.
If your engine has a supercharger, turbocharger or the manufacturer recommends that you only use synthetic motor oil please choose a Group III motor oil to avoid competing chemistry
Always choose the engine oil weight (viscosity) that your engine’s manufacturer recommends.
Notes On Choosing An Engine Oil For Use With Auto-Rx®
Auto-Rx® works with generally the least expensive motor oil available.
Conventional engine oils include Valvoline Conventional, SuperTech (available at Wal-Mart), and Coastal (available at AutoZone).
Group III Oil,s which include Pennzoil Platinum, Castrol Syntec, and Valvoline Synpower work well also
Use of high-mileage engine oils should be avoided during all Clean and Rinse Phases. However, high-mileage engine oils can be used while following an Auto-Rx® maintenance plan.
If your engine has a supercharger, turbocharger or the manufacturer recommends that you only use synthetic motor oil please choose a Group III motor oil to avoid competing chemistry
Always choose the engine oil weight (viscosity) that your engine’s manufacturer recommends.
Right from the FAQ on http://www.auto-rx.com
Q: Does it matter what type of oil I use with Auto-Rx®?
A: It does not matter what type of oil you use for the cleaning phase of the Auto-Rx® application. However, for maximum results we recommend that you use plain, non-synthetic oil for the rinse phase. Please see Application Instructions for complete details.
Q: Why do you recommend non-synthetic oil for the rinse" phase of the application?
A: We recommend simple, non-synthetic oil (do not use-semi synthetic or high-mileage oil) for this important step in the Auto-Rx® Application. Synthetic oil has a complex additive package that polarizes the liquefied debris on the engine’s internal oil-lubricated parts. The goal is to rinse all the internal parts of this liquefied debris, and a good ?Dino Oil?, with its simple additive package, does the job very well.
Q: What is "dino" oil?
A: Dino oil is an informal name for standard, non-synthetic oil. It is presumed that the remains of dinosaurs contributed to the formation of petroleum millions of years ago.
Q: Does it matter what type of oil I use with Auto-Rx®?
A: It does not matter what type of oil you use for the cleaning phase of the Auto-Rx® application. However, for maximum results we recommend that you use plain, non-synthetic oil for the rinse phase. Please see Application Instructions for complete details.
Q: Why do you recommend non-synthetic oil for the rinse" phase of the application?
A: We recommend simple, non-synthetic oil (do not use-semi synthetic or high-mileage oil) for this important step in the Auto-Rx® Application. Synthetic oil has a complex additive package that polarizes the liquefied debris on the engine’s internal oil-lubricated parts. The goal is to rinse all the internal parts of this liquefied debris, and a good ?Dino Oil?, with its simple additive package, does the job very well.
Q: What is "dino" oil?
A: Dino oil is an informal name for standard, non-synthetic oil. It is presumed that the remains of dinosaurs contributed to the formation of petroleum millions of years ago.
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So if the goal is to "rinse" or "clean" the stuff out why wouldn't a high detergent oil work better? While you say any cheap Dino "will work". Why wouldn't a high detergency oiul work better or best? Other than saving money by buying the cheapest dino you can get, how is the cheapest stuff better?
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I've read several posts by Frank that state oil detergency doesn't clean anything, because if it did, then it couldn't lubricate (Note: I disagree). So based on that logic, the oil's detergency isn't going to assist Auto-RX any.
There is no oil additive package that cleans metal deep enough to allow total lubrication. Oil can,t lubricate through dirt.
Frank,
Bless you for answering the same questions over, and over, and over.....
To me, your answer regarding Mobil Clean 5000 oil infers that it isn't as good a choice as Valvolene/SuperTech/Coastal. Yet, I consider it to be just a plain dino oil.
At one time, was it not debated whether or not the new "sludge fighting" formulations such as Havoline and Castrol regular oils interfered with the rinse phase?
I give you permission to sigh, and then knock your head against the wall.
Bless you for answering the same questions over, and over, and over.....
To me, your answer regarding Mobil Clean 5000 oil infers that it isn't as good a choice as Valvolene/SuperTech/Coastal. Yet, I consider it to be just a plain dino oil.
At one time, was it not debated whether or not the new "sludge fighting" formulations such as Havoline and Castrol regular oils interfered with the rinse phase?
I give you permission to sigh, and then knock your head against the wall.
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Also keep in mind that there are lots of oils out there. All current oils are, in the classic sense of the term, "high detergent". It's a term that evolved from a time when there was wide spread use of ND oil. Most of you are too young to have been alive when that occurred ..so just realize the distinction when you're referring to "higher" detergency when comparing one oil to another. Few oils remove anything (there are exceptions to a point). Most resist deposit formation. Some better than others.
The service length for a cleaning/rinse phase should dictate the sensible use of plain Jane conventional. Those who have special needs (your Euro-alloy types that fear not having the fancy little numbers on their oil) should sensibly realize that most of those little numbers are only valid for a given service length and that's why many other oils do not qualify. Since you're not going to use the rinse oil over that duration ..or demand that 2% in economy ..or that fractional % of this and that ..you find a durable alternative in a conventional oil and figure out that you're employing a wrestler to take the place of your Olympian decathlon champion for a VERY SHORT TIME.
The service length for a cleaning/rinse phase should dictate the sensible use of plain Jane conventional. Those who have special needs (your Euro-alloy types that fear not having the fancy little numbers on their oil) should sensibly realize that most of those little numbers are only valid for a given service length and that's why many other oils do not qualify. Since you're not going to use the rinse oil over that duration ..or demand that 2% in economy ..or that fractional % of this and that ..you find a durable alternative in a conventional oil and figure out that you're employing a wrestler to take the place of your Olympian decathlon champion for a VERY SHORT TIME.
Frank, Your website says that group III oils such as Castrol Synthetic work fine in the rinse phase. Would a plain old dino, such as Mobil Clean 5,000 or Supertech or whatever work even better, or would you say that any of the above would accomplish the rinse equivalently?
To add a question for Frank about Auto-RX...is the product available anywhere in Canada. Thanks.
You read my mind and stated what I had on my mind.
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Any cheap oil works for the rinse phase. Stay away from HM oils. For the sake of simple economics, use a cheap dino. Yellow Bottle PZ, Formula Shell, GTX, whatever. If you want to use a Group III oil for the sake of some "need" ..fine, but keep in mind that your "need" probably has some durability or longevity component to it that will not likely be challenged in 3,000 miles. Now this is stated from a mileage standpoint. If you were someone who normally does 3,000 miles over 6 months, then the economics of Group III oils tends change and appear more sensible.
Example: Some guy with Euro-alloy. Euro-alloys spec complex and expensive oils. Let's say 0w-40 M1. Well, it would really be a waste to use M1 for 2500 and 3000 miles (changing it both times) and it would stifle the Auto-Rx process. So the owner has intense anxiety since his Euro-alloy appears real picky. What he doesn't realize is that many of the numbers (MB 229.x, VW 50x.xx, Audi whatever, and BMW LL xxxx) have fuel economy and longevity criteria to them that eliminate many ROBUST oils from getting those pesky numbers. You aren't requiring fuel economy. You're not requiring 24km longevity ..with only so much volume loss due to volatility ..with only so much blah-blah-blah-blah. So you grab a jug of Rotella 5w-40 or 15w40 and factor that you're not going to beat up a HDEO over 3000 miles.
See how simple it is? You don't need an oil that can handle the Alpine Bavarian foothills when it's not going to stick around long enough for that part of the tour.
Example: Some guy with Euro-alloy. Euro-alloys spec complex and expensive oils. Let's say 0w-40 M1. Well, it would really be a waste to use M1 for 2500 and 3000 miles (changing it both times) and it would stifle the Auto-Rx process. So the owner has intense anxiety since his Euro-alloy appears real picky. What he doesn't realize is that many of the numbers (MB 229.x, VW 50x.xx, Audi whatever, and BMW LL xxxx) have fuel economy and longevity criteria to them that eliminate many ROBUST oils from getting those pesky numbers. You aren't requiring fuel economy. You're not requiring 24km longevity ..with only so much volume loss due to volatility ..with only so much blah-blah-blah-blah. So you grab a jug of Rotella 5w-40 or 15w40 and factor that you're not going to beat up a HDEO over 3000 miles.
See how simple it is? You don't need an oil that can handle the Alpine Bavarian foothills when it's not going to stick around long enough for that part of the tour.
Now *that's* an answer I can wrap my brain around.
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