Auto-Rx Question on Application ?

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mburnickas

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If I was to run (2) applications of Auto-RX can I do this:

Run the first app (per instuctions)and then on the Rinse phase do I just add another XX ounces of Auto-RX after 2,000 miles; or do I need to drain the old Rinse oil and install new oil with ARX (XX ounces)?

Thank you
 
You need to drain the rinse oil it's full of dirt.contaminants etc. and filter also needs to be changed. Add fresh oil and new filter and proceed with second application

Every contaminant liquified by cleaning with Auto-Rx has been laying on the metal, (once again synthetic oil with synthetic esters hold oil to metal) We want contaminants off the metal so a non synthetic oil (no synthetic esters)is what is called for to rinse metal clean.
 
Thank you Frank. I know I have been a pain in the behind on this but I will email you what I think about it.

So far I am VERY impressed on what Auto-RX has done in my Lexus ES300 on re-gaining power.

Again I will email you a letter when done if you like.

I like it so much I bought 5 bottles 2 weeks ago!
 
Sorry for the thread-jacking, but this is related. Frank, how critical is it to stay with exactly 1500 miles on the cleaning phase. If, because of travel, I won't be home until I hit 1700-1800 miles, will I reduce the effectiveness of the treatment, or even induce a hazardous situation?

Hope you're doing well.
cheers.gif
 
Not Frank
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The 1500 miles was taking into account synthetic oil. the original one was using conventional oil at 750 miles.
 
Auto-Rx has a safety valve built in. ( it is designed for situations like yours) You could go up to 2000 miles.

However at this mileage change oil definitely.
 
The 1500 was taking into account a pao or ester oil. The original app using dino was 750 miles....from what I have read.
 
I am curious because I am at 750, but have a small leak at the drain plug since I neglected to put in the washer (very small - a few drips over a few days).

If I am, at max, Group III with mostly dino, am I close to changing out the cleaning phase?
 
In my estimation it is best to run the 1500 miles in the cleaning phase even with dino.

Also regarding the second application question. Yes run the 2000 mile rinse and dump oil and filter. However you may run the next cleaning phase on the back end, provided that your motor was not heavily sludged.
 
Frank:

Thanks very much for the quick response. I will stick as closely to the instructions as I can (pretty closely). I'm planning to use Mobil Clean 5000, which I understand to be a plain II/II+ natural petro oil for the rinse phase, but I'm still curious -- for ARX rinse phase purposes, do the Group-III oils count as syns or dinos? If the dino requirement for rinse phase is based upon esters interfereing with crud removal, I'd think that the G-IIIs would be considered dino (unless of course they've got some esters mixed in...).
cheers.gif
 
Auto-Rx transitioned itself from industrial use. Way back when we guestimated 750 miles for car engines based on several different type of industrial equiptment. More Used in car engines and many test results,this showed 1500 miles was optimum ( including those done by Dyson Oil Analysis) now
I would hope this explanation will lead people to the correct conclusion, "Follow The Application Instructions" on www.auto-rx.com.

Auto-Rx is the safest and most thorough metal cleaner you can use with a 5 year track record of performance.
 
Maybe I am WAY off here but I thought Mobil Clean 5000 was not on Franks good list for rinse oils?
 
quote:
Originally posted by mburnickas:
The 1500 was taking into account a pao or ester oil. The original app using dino was 750 miles....from what I have read.
Click to expand...
750 miles in my engine would have done nothing. Based on what I see mine, 1500 miles would be the minimum. I'm targeting the "high temp sludge", which is alot tougher to remove than the soft sludgy stuff.

Cleaning is definitely occuring, but I'm also on ARX Rinse #3. Arx #1 went for 1400+ miles. ARX #2 for 2000 miles. ARX #3 went for 2500 miles. And on ARX #3, I threw in the last 3 ounces at 1600 miles to give it a boost. I've cut open every filter and removed the elements. I have them all. None of them are full, or even close. In fact there's not much in any of them and I could have left them on for the full rinse phase each time and it wouldn't have mattered.

Bear in mind that I *may* have had a fairly clean engine to begin with. I also may have an engine with fairly heavy high temp deposits and those do not release very easily. I'll know more in about a month when I disassemble the top end for maintenance. Pulling valve covers for regular inspection is not a really an option (for me) on this engine : time to remove and replace is 2.5 - 3.5 hours and incurs about $75 in gasket costs each time.
 
quote:
Originally posted by mburnickas:
Maybe I am WAY off here but I thought Mobil Clean 5000 was not on Franks good list for rinse oils?
Click to expand...
You got a link to this list? I'd really appreciate it if you do. Mobil says it's a just conventional, but if there's some reason not to use it, I'll just grab one of the other SM dinos. Thanks for the heads-up.
 
That's interesting and puzzling. Frank uses the "Mobil Drive Clean" terminology, while the others are referring to "Mobil Clean 5000". A year or so ago, Mobil revamped the product line, which is when the "drive clean" terminology disappeared, and "Clean 5000" and "Clean 7500" appeared. The latter is pushed as a blend while 5000 is not. At any rate, we're talking four quarts of really cheap stuff, so I think I'll just go get something else (ST or Havo) and not worry about it.
cheers.gif
 
MC5000 is an excellent oil for both clean and rinse phases. This is as confirmed by both the ARX and EOM folks. I've used it very successfully in numerous ARX treatments.

You want to avoid synthetics, esters, and oils with any polarizing agents for the rinse phase. Other than a little extra sodium, the 5000 is none of those.
 
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