Auto-RX in Rotella T6?

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I have a 1988 Ford Thunderbird turbocoupe with 2.3L Turbo 4 cly.
I changed the oil maybe 150 miles ago. I used Rotella T6 5w40 and a PureONE filter. Anyway the car has setup along time and the lifters are noisy until it warms up but if you let it set over night they start making noise again.

My question is can I add some auto-rx to it. I have about 3/4 bottle that I used in somthing else.
any other ideals on how to quiten the noisy lifters.
 
Originally Posted By: crazycrak
I have a 1988 Ford Thunderbird turbocoupe with 2.3L Turbo 4 cly.
I changed the oil maybe 150 miles ago. I used Rotella T6 5w40 and a PureONE filter. Anyway the car has setup along time and the lifters are noisy until it warms up but if you let it sit over night they start making noise again.

My question is can I add some auto-rx to it. I have about 3/4 bottle.
any other ideals on how to quiten the noisy lifters.
 
I have read that MMO and Kreen have helped with this, I don't think arx is designed for this purpose. Plus I think you're supposed to use dino oil for the clean phase.
 
Originally Posted By: crazycrak
I dunno if I would want to run a non-synthetic with the turbo.
I guess I could try the ARX anyway.

I don't think there was much synthetic oil back in 88.
2k-3k on modern Dino should be fine on this car.
 
IIRC, Rotella T6 is a Group III synthetic similar to Pennzoil Platinum, etc in terms of base oil. So it should be fine. It is a good oil and very popular among diesel communities/forums.
 
For lifter tick, first try running MMO on top of that. It's the cheapest attempt first. You could try first adding a pint of MMO to your oil as soon as your level drops(if you lose oil over mileage etc), and keep it in there for at least 1,000 miles. Then, on the next oil change use it as no more than 20% of the entire volume of your oil capacity. If that doesn't work, looking into Kreen may be worth it for a once shot, if that doesn't work it's mechanical and nothing will or it is just taking it's sweet time.

I agree that this doesn't sound like a job for ARx.
 
Try a pint of MMO for the last 1000-1500 miles of this OCI, then try a pint for the next OCI, run it the entire interval. Keep an eye on the oil level, if it drops top it up with MMO, however don't use any more than another a pint for topping up during the interval. If you add an additional pint and need to top up, use oil instead. You shouldn't exceed one qt of MMO per OCI. HTH
 
^At least, not in the summer. Generally speaking people!!!
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Originally Posted By: zyxelenator
Yeap, too much MMO is not good,It will thin down oil.


Yup, but does it (thining) really do anything bad? I will take MMO over ARX.
 
Originally Posted By: snowmaker
Originally Posted By: zyxelenator
Yeap, too much MMO is not good,It will thin down oil.


Yup, but does it (thining) really do anything bad? I will take MMO over ARX.

Not sure. There is debate Thin vs Thick.
I topped of my car with both thick up to 50 and thin down to 20 when it drunk oil like crazy.Can't really tell difference, I think with 20 weight top offs engine ran easier. I will compare coming spring. I did flush run for 10 min with fresh 15W-40 Delvac and filter, will to next one with 5w20 Valvoline and compare the sound of engine. One of my father's friends(old mechanic)wants me to try out LM 10w-60 oil.He states it"s best oil he ever used,and lots of his customers, that is good for everyday drive and extremes like track and 4x4 offroad runs. It will be his next fill in v6 Eclipse(that he recently bought). I have plenty of oil to use first.
 
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