Auto-RX in Ford 500/Montego 6spd trans

[ToyotaNSaturn]

recently purchased a an '06 Montego FWD with the 6-speed auto trans.

After driving it a few months, the problem that has been consistent only happens when cold: backing out of a spot, then going from R to D, the unit surges, but doesn't seem to slam into D gear, for a moment or two, then all is fine.

When warmed up, this issue never occurs.

The maintenance history on this vehicle is good, trans fluid changed every 30K. I figure do a run of Auto-Rx, then change out for Amsoil ATF.

Have no idea if Auto-Rx would help with this issue, but it's worth a shot. At the very least, the trans seals will have thanked me and it will be a bit cleaner.

From what I understand, this 6-speed trans only was around from '05-'07 in the Ford 500/Mercury Montego pair. In '08, that trans was dropped in favor of the new jointly-made GM/Ford 6speed trans.

 

[demarpaint]

Servicing the transmission certainly won't hurt, and I would suggest the addition of Lubegard to the transmission with the fresh fluid.

As a side note, you mentioned the problem only happening when cold. Could it be an engine idle problem and not the transmission? IAC and TPS come to mind. Just a thought.

 

[ChiTDI]

The "cold" item in your description leads me to think it might be by design. Maybe check some Merc/Ford forums and see if this a common issue and one that is not specific to you particular car. I have a Toyota with a similar shift issue from 1-2 and it brought panic to me until I found it was temp actuated by spec.

 

[J. A. Rizzo]

Originally Posted By: ToyotaNSaturn
Have no idea if Auto-Rx would help with this issue, but it's worth a shot. At the very least, the trans seals will have thanked me and it will be a bit cleaner.


I don't think AutoRX will help at all with the issue, I don't't think the seals will thank you, and I don't think it's worth a shot, either. Cold pumpability of the fluid is the most likely culprit here, given your symptoms. Using a synthetic ATF matched to the spec required for your car would be probably the most likely thing to change the behavior, assuming the synthetic ATF has better low temperature pumping characteristics than whatever fluid you're running now. If you really want to diagnose and solve the problem rather than just throwing expensive fluid and snake oil products at it, just change one thing at a time. Moving to a new fluid will affect the problem or not. How can you change all the fluid in the system? Can you drain the converter? If not, how will you know that you've changed enough of the fluid with synthetic to make a difference in the problem? Adding other products to it with other, unknown properties to them, especially in more sensitive modern transmissions, is asking for trouble and not solving a problem, IMO.

 

[panthermike]

Try syn ATF first. If that doesn't do it, I would try Lubegard red as Demarpaint mentioned. It's made for transmissions with a proven track record.

I actually used some in our Fusion because of its cold shift and downshift characteristics. As far as I can tell, both issues are gone.

 

[ToyotaNSaturn]

snake oil? LOL Auto-Rx has worked for me in the past. There's no snake oil in that bottle.

Two votes for Lubegard. Never heard of it. I'll look into it.

 

[BearZDefect]

Originally Posted By: demarpaint
Servicing the transmission certainly won't hurt, and I would suggest the addition of Lubegard to the transmission with the fresh fluid.

As a side note, you mentioned the problem only happening when cold. Could it be an engine idle problem and not the transmission? IAC and TPS come to mind. Just a thought.

I second demarpaint's side note. The engine control computer is giving it extra fuel and air when cold, causing the surge. I doubt it is a transmission problem at all, if anything it is an engine control programming nuisance.

 

[JOD]

Originally Posted By: ToyotaNSaturn
recently purchased a an '06 Montego FWD with the 6-speed auto trans.

After driving it a few months, the problem that has been consistent only happens when cold: backing out of a spot, then going from R to D, the unit surges, but doesn't seem to slam into D gear, for a moment or two, then all is fine.



I seriously doubt it's the transmission, I'm almost certain it's the throttle body. It's a pretty common issue in this car, and yours is exhibiting the classic symptom. Remove the throttle body and clean it, and make sure to undo the battery negative when you do to reset the computer. I'd take care of it sooner rather than later, since if left unattended, you'll eventually wear a spot on the PWM-controlled film used for the throttle position sensor...which is integrated into the TB! There's no way to replace the TPS separately, you'll have to replace the TB, and it's not cheap.

I wipe down the bore with a rag and some TB cleaner every oil change, and remove the TB every 30K or so for a thorough cleaning. I'm at 100K, no issues. Many haven't been so lucky.

Regarding the AutoRX, while I'd flush the fluid and consider adding a filter, I'm suspicious of adding stuff to my transmission, but that's me...

 

[ToyotaNSaturn]

Yep, you guys were spot on: it was the throttle body that needed cleaning.

Found this http://www.fordtaurus.net/forums/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=14133 then this illustrated topic: http://www.myfordfreestyle.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=3818

Armed with cleaners, information from this topic and the above links, I took the advice to wipe down the TB and the butterfly valve, until all the black gunk was dissolved and wiped away. Cleaned the Mass Airflow sensor too with it's own spray cleaner.

Now, it drives like new! All for around $11 in chemicals and about 2 hours of time.

Taking the whole TB off? seems a bit much to me at this point. Why take the entire TB off to clean it if cleaning while it's attached proves successful? Does it clean the TB better?

Didn't get the trans fluid changed as I don't have a the hex-head male adapter to get that screw bolt loose. Parts store didn't have one either. Will save this for another day.