Audi oil issues

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3
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CT
I recently purchased an '06, one-owner Audi A4 w/ 2.0 l turbo engine (approx. 48,000 mi.). Upon closer scrutiny of the service records, it appears that the former owner went to Valvoline Instant Oil Change centers for servicing following the initial Audi dealer scheduled servicing. The Valvoline Oil Change records indicate that s5w30 (followed by DBBULK) oil was used in those instances. When I did some research into what grade of oil this might have been, it looks like it was a blend. My question is, if it was a blend (of regular and synthetic), what, if any, are the potential ramifications? Do I need to drain the oil and replace it with a synthetic right away? And are there any problems that I might confront down the road because of his use of this oil? Thanks for any help on this matter.
 
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39,799
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Great Lakes
First of all, why was he taking it to a quick oil change place? Wasn't the dealer free service available up to 50k miles on '06 models? Or did they get rid of it by then? I can't recall... Back to the issue, the oil is supposed to meet VW 502.00 spec. I doubt the bulk oil that they used meets the spec, so I would go ahead and change the oil. Do you know how frequently the oil was changed? As for potential ramifications, well... engine sludging and premature turbo failure come to mind, although I don't think the new 2.0T engines are as prone to it as the older 1.8T engines were. Some of them seem to suffer from excessive fuel dilution, but the use of 502.00 oil doesn't really take care of the problem either.
 
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25,045
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ON, Canada eh?
Depends on more than just what oil is used in your case... What kind of driving style did the former owner have? Short trips, always keeping the turbo very hot etc... If the car is running fine now, I would just switch over to a VW approved specification oil that is a full syn and just do a couple of short change intervals (3K Miles) to flush out any easily removed deposits. I would also use a good fuel system cleaner like Amsoil PI or something else that contains PEA to clean up and combustion chamber and intake valve deposits etc... You could also think about doing an Auto-Rx treatment with a good quality group III syn like Pennzoil Platinum. Then drive happy. No worries! \:\! Darn... Where are my manners? to BITOG!
 
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1,877
Location
Pacnw
I suggest cleaning the intake valves ASAP and installing a pcv bypass or other method to prevent pcv deposits in your engine. I'll stay out of the oil part of it, but I suggest reading all the threads started by Rl_RS4 as most pertain to the FSI engine. I'll try to dig up some links to read.
 
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1,657
Location
Eden Prairie MN
Auto RX would be the best bet. Followed by using good syn. oils. Audi says to use Castrol. You could go with either Castrol or Mobil 1. I ran Mobil 1 OW-40 in all my previous Audi's and my brother is currently getting all his oil changes for free through Audi with his 09 and they are using Castrol. It even has the Castrol name and logo on his motor oil cap.
 
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1,877
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Pacnw
 Originally Posted By: hpichris
It even has the Castrol name and logo on his motor oil cap.
That is just marketing. Castrol paid for that. Syntec 5w40 is perhaps the worst performer of the 40+ UOAs in the database (debatable). GC is a Castrol product and has performed much better in this engine. Regarding oil, the first thing to decide is if you want to use a vw 502 oil or not. If you're #1 concern is warranty, use a 502 oil. There are 502 oils such as Lubromoly 5W40 (NAPA), M1 0W40 available. I believe that German Castrol is also now on the 502 list and although this engine beats the heck out of all oils, GC has performed pretty well considering. Some that may be harder to find but are good 502 oils are Motul and Pentosin. If you don't want to be stuck with 502 oils, there are many out there that may give better protection than 502 oils, such as Amsoil, Biosyn 5W40 (which was designed for the audi FSI engine specifically), Redline, Shaeffers.
 
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39,799
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Great Lakes
 Originally Posted By: saaber1
If you're #1 concern is warranty, use a 502 oil.
Considering that the previous owner used some bulk valvoline oil, I think his engine warranty as it relates to oil is probably out the window already.
 
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1,877
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Pacnw
 Originally Posted By: Quattro Pete
Considering that the previous owner used some bulk valvoline oil, I think his engine warranty as it relates to oil is probably out the window already.
Ur right!
 
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1,657
Location
Eden Prairie MN
 Originally Posted By: saaber1
 Originally Posted By: hpichris
It even has the Castrol name and logo on his motor oil cap.
That is just marketing. Castrol paid for that. Syntec 5w40 is perhaps the worst performer of the 40+ UOAs in the database (debatable). GC is a Castrol product and has performed much better in this engine. Regarding oil, the first thing to decide is if you want to use a vw 502 oil or not. If you're #1 concern is warranty, use a 502 oil. There are 502 oils such as Lubromoly 5W40 (NAPA), M1 0W40 available. I believe that German Castrol is also now on the 502 list and although this engine beats the heck out of all oils, GC has performed pretty well considering. Some that may be harder to find but are good 502 oils are Motul and Pentosin. If you don't want to be stuck with 502 oils, there are many out there that may give better protection than 502 oils, such as Amsoil, Biosyn 5W40 (which was designed for the audi FSI engine specifically), Redline, Shaeffers.
Of course it's marketing. It's also a good way to stay safe. Follow what's recommended on the cap. Cause you know, the people who make the engine have no idea what's good for the engine ;\)
 
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11,247
Location
PA
If the OP went the a QL, maybe you have some free changes left at the dealer. I would get into the habit of DIY changes, even if it means leaving the lower belly pan off or buying an oil exrtractor tool. Auto-Rx, a must. 5k oil changes w/ good synth, a must. Look into the PCV catch can too.
 
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3,730
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SE PA
Well, as has been said "....dino IS the BETTER option as long as the owner does not mind draining it out 2x as often as the synth that costs 2x as much."
 
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audia406

Thread starter
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3
Location
CT
Thanks for your responses and recommendations. It's greatly appreciated. (Some very well-informed oil heads here!) And while this thread is still active, I have another question...this is my first turbo motor. I assume that the conventional wisdom about letting the engine idle for a short while before shutting down (which I've been doing) is correct. If so, how much idle time, under normal driving conditions, is really necessary before shutting down? (I've read numerous takes on the subject, and some seem a little excessive, even to the uninitiated like myself.) Also, does prolonged driving at higher highway speeds require more idle time? Thanks.
 
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11,247
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PA
iirc, some guys use the 1 minute door chime as a guide. However, I believe that engine has a run-on pump the flows after the engine is off. You'd have to check on it yourself.
 
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799
Location
Washington, DC
 Originally Posted By: audia406
Thanks for your responses and recommendations. It's greatly appreciated. (Some very well-informed oil heads here!) And while this thread is still active, I have another question...this is my first turbo motor. I assume that the conventional wisdom about letting the engine idle for a short while before shutting down (which I've been doing) is correct. If so, how much idle time, under normal driving conditions, is really necessary before shutting down? (I've read numerous takes on the subject, and some seem a little excessive, even to the uninitiated like myself.) Also, does prolonged driving at higher highway speeds require more idle time? Thanks.
you need to do this after a prolonged hard driving/track/autox use..regular driving does not require this..your turbos are water cooled
 
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1,877
Location
Pacnw
 Originally Posted By: audia406
Thanks for your responses and recommendations. It's greatly appreciated. (Some very well-informed oil heads here!) And while this thread is still active, I have another question...this is my first turbo motor. I assume that the conventional wisdom about letting the engine idle for a short while before shutting down (which I've been doing) is correct. If so, how much idle time, under normal driving conditions, is really necessary before shutting down? (I've read numerous takes on the subject, and some seem a little excessive, even to the uninitiated like myself.) Also, does prolonged driving at higher highway speeds require more idle time? Thanks.
It can't hurt to let it run a bit before shutting down. The turbo can spin at like 200,000 rpm or something ridiculous like that and it can't hurt to let it's revs come down prior to shutting off. But like zoom zoom said it is water cooled and your engine has a pump that keeps running after you shut it off to cool the turbo (that is the slight buzz you here after you shut off your car). My recommendation is anytime you run it hard or are coming off the highway, give it just a bit to lower the revs. Most of the time you don't need to do anything, but it can't hurt (unless you are idling for an extended time like a couple minutes).
 
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3,855
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Cape Cod, MA
 Originally Posted By: hpichris
Cause you know, the people who make the engine have no idea what's good for the engine ;\)
I know you're being tongue-in-cheek, but the reverse is frequently true. Many times the engineers do know EXACTLY what's best for the engine, but are overruled by the marketing nitwits.
 
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