ATF Transmission Filtered Clogged

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I have a 1965 Dodge Polara with an automatic transmission. The guy that sold it said he flushed the transmission. It runs fine for about 20 miles and then the transmission filter clogs completely with black sludge. Once I replace the filter it runs fine for 20- miles or so. I am now on filter number 3 any advice before I start using this filter? I have thought about installing a new torque converter because I believe that is what is holding the sludge.

Thanks
 
Originally Posted By: BruceDodge
I have a 1965 Dodge Polara with an automatic transmission. The guy that sold it said he flushed the transmission. It runs fine for about 20 miles and then the transmission filter clogs completely with black sludge. Once I replace the filter it runs fine for 20- miles or so. I am now on filter number 3 any advice before I start using this filter? I have thought about installing a new torque converter because I believe that is what is holding the sludge.

Thanks


You know there's a drain on that torque convertor, right? Remove the torque convertor access plate, and turn the engine until the drain plug rotates into view. Its a plug, don't mistake it for the nuts that attach the convertor to the flex plate. There are four flex plate studs with nuts, and the drain plug will be partway between two of them, usually with small balancing weights tack-welded nearby. Drain the convertor whenever you drain the transmission, and unlike modern cars you can drain ALL the fluid and replace it with new in one shot. About 10-12 quarts, depending on exactly what diameter convertor it has.

Also yours is a dual-pump Torqueflite (if its original to the car). Be SURE that your replacement filter has TWO inlet holes for the two pumps, not the single hole like all the '66-up Torqueflites use. Trivia: you can actually push-start a dual-pump Torqueflite, because the driveshaft pump will generate enough pressure to put it in gear even without the crankshaft pump turning, and eventually the convertor will turn the engine over. You have to be moving relatively fast- say 15+ mph- but it works.

But seriously... its probably toast. No transmission can produce that level of contamination for long and still live. Its either clutch material shedding, or (less likely since its tan in color) coolant contamination.
 
Could be the tc, but agree with rshaw and it could be both; doing a rebuild with a new tc will give you 100k miles of no (trans) worries.

Edit: because if the filter is clogged after 20 miles, there is a lot of that crud everywhere in the trans.
 
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Originally Posted By: brandini
Originally Posted By: 440Magnum
stuff
Most useful and informative post of the day award winner is 440Magnum.


Thanks. Just hoping someone can benefit from all the hours I've spent lying in puddles of Dexron under 60's Mopars. Not much call for that kind of knowledge anymore... :-)
 
Quote:
Trivia: you can actually push-start a dual-pump Torqueflite, because the driveshaft pump will generate enough pressure to put it in gear even without the crankshaft pump turning, and eventually the convertor will turn the engine over.


My second car was a White-over-Green 1957 Ford HT with the 312 Interceptor (T-Bird) engine and a TorqueFlight (yes a TorqueFLight) tranny. Best engine/tranny combo a kid could have.
thumbsup2.gif
 
Probably one of the toughest automatic transmissions ever made. My Jeeps had 727 guts in an AMC case. As long as you kept them full of Dex/Merc, they were fine. The 1;1 final drive was OK as long as gas cost a buck fifty a gallon. My first one started slipping badly, and following the sage advice of my BIL, I changed the filter and what ever came out when I dropped the pan.It was a [censored] shoot. It worked and the rolled on for several yrs.
 
the filter is to stop any small pieces of clutch from getting in the valve body and jamming a piston in it. if its got so much junk that its plugging the filter stick a fork in it cause its done.
 
Clogged would mean either the fluid is turning into solid , or clutch material is coming off.

if your using good ATF, i really dont see how the tranny is even running if it cloggs filter every 20k. That much clutch material would cause the tranny to fail, if atf is getting that hot, again the tranny will fail.

I am intrested to see what people have to say about this one. To me this doesnt seem right. Maybe its your radiator breaking apart on inside. External rad would help.
 
i think he said it happens every 20 miles.... If that is the problem either someone put something in the oil or its shot if it is still shifting good and it smells ok then someone put something in
i am an engine guy so my transmission advice is not so great lol
 
When you get tired of it run it without a filter, or rip the guts out and put a gravel trap in there. Unless ofcourse you want to rebuild it, in which case don't run it without a filter, since you might damage something worth saving.
 
Originally Posted By: BruceDodge
I have a 1965 Dodge Polara with an automatic transmission. The guy that sold it said he flushed the transmission. It runs fine for about 20 miles and then the transmission filter clogs completely with black sludge. Once I replace the filter it runs fine for 20- miles or so. I am now on filter number 3 any advice before I start using this filter? I have thought about installing a new torque converter because I believe that is what is holding the sludge.

Thanks


Well, now you know why the fluid was changed before you purchased it!

It sounds as if the transmission has overheated and the transmission fluid was not changed often enough.

Have you determined if the cooling system is operating at the correct temperature?

I have found some older vehicles have never had the radiator cleaned and flushed, nor have ever had the thermostat replaced.

I would keep draining fluid and replacing the filter until the fluid clears up. The new fluid is removing the sludge in the valve body and passageways as well.
 
Sometime ago it appears that they added an after market transmission cooler. So I know there is no contaminant from the radiator. However the radiator is very clean and seems to run fine. I am beginning to believe clutch failure due to the vehicle had set for 17 years without being driven. Still have not decided 100% to rebuild transmission yet but that seems to be the majority consensus. all advice is welcomed.
 
Originally Posted By: BruceDodge
Here is a picture of the filter https://www.dropbox.com/s/volt43fgww6xwpp/CAM00158.jpg


Well, that is a '66-up filter for a single-pump Torqueflite. That in itself could be contributing to your problem, again ASSuming that you have a real 1965 transmission in there (although the linkages are very different, so it would have been quite a job to switch over).

Here's the filter a 1965 Torqueflite 727 transmission SHOULD have:

A12010B.jpg
Note the second hole for the rear (driveshaft) pump inlet. Your driveshaft pump is being blocked off, resulting in lower than normal operating pressure when the car is moving, so the transmission is probably slipping and overheating.

Can you post a picture looking up at the bottom of the valve body where the filter attaches?

Torqueflites are tough as nails, but this will eventually kill it. May have wounded it grievously already if its been this way for long.

My advice would be to get the right filter, drain the CONVERTOR as well as the pan this time, and try again.

Keep us posted.
 
Quote:
Sometime ago it appears that they added an after market transmission cooler. So I know there is no contaminant from the radiator.


Is there actual fluid flow through both through the AM cooler and radiator cooler?

I too am wondering if the correct filter is in there. If not, you could be starving the rear pump.
 
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