Question says it all. When do you think it is a safe time to replace a worn set of tires? 2/32? less than that? 4/32? I'm not talking damaged or other factors, just normal wear.
At what tread depth do you replace?
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maybe because i'm living in AB, Canada - that i NEVER dare running a tire at less than 4/32 or 5/32. honestly - i actually don't even do it by measure, more by visual and dyno butt. we've got too many seasons even within the realm of 'summertime' to take a chance with my family over $6-800.
by your location, is it generally a warmer & drier climate? if i lived there i may be inclined to go 3-4/32 comfortably.
by your location, is it generally a warmer & drier climate? if i lived there i may be inclined to go 3-4/32 comfortably.
2/32nds is the legal minimum, but the hydroplaning curve really starts to nose dive at about 4/32nds. So a lot of knowledgeable folks recommend 4/32nds.
I toss them when half the tread is gone. I like to avoid hydroplanning which is like driving on ice. I don't buy the most expensive tires. I would rather ride on a good quality tire like Kumho with half the tread left than a pricey Michelen close to 2/32nds.
As the tire ages the rubber hardens and the tread wears out, tire grip is lost.
Tire Design
Old and Hard rubber? 6 years is the recommeded age for trashing old tires.
No so with their tires according to Bridgestone's tire ads which tout "Dual Layer Tread".
Supposedly it means a tire years down the road will grip just as good a new because as the tire wears down, a 2nd softer layer of rubber is exposed.
Weather
I would want a tire with a least 50% tread depth for all the snow we get up here.
Driving
Carrying heavy loads?
Summary
Good rubber and Accident prevention is the the key word here. Tread depth is only one factor to consider. Replace your tires according to your driving conditions, tire design, age and weather conditions.
[ October 06, 2005, 09:27 PM: Message edited by: 98AV6 ]
Tire Design
Old and Hard rubber? 6 years is the recommeded age for trashing old tires.
No so with their tires according to Bridgestone's tire ads which tout "Dual Layer Tread".
Supposedly it means a tire years down the road will grip just as good a new because as the tire wears down, a 2nd softer layer of rubber is exposed.
Weather
I would want a tire with a least 50% tread depth for all the snow we get up here.
Driving
Carrying heavy loads?
Summary
Good rubber and Accident prevention is the the key word here. Tread depth is only one factor to consider. Replace your tires according to your driving conditions, tire design, age and weather conditions.
[ October 06, 2005, 09:27 PM: Message edited by: 98AV6 ]
I just replaced my Goodyear Eagle RSA OEM tires on my 95 Maxima at 61K. They had just turned 11 years old and still had about 3/32" left on them. I could have squeezed more mileage out of them had we been going into spring rather than fall, but I got a super deal on a set of Yokohama
Avid H4S.
Since wet weather is a concern for the next several months, I bit the bullet and got rid of the RSAs which were wearing like iron. I would have had to slow down considerably on the highway and would have parked the car in ice and snow conditions.
Avid H4S.
Since wet weather is a concern for the next several months, I bit the bullet and got rid of the RSAs which were wearing like iron. I would have had to slow down considerably on the highway and would have parked the car in ice and snow conditions.
it doesn't rain here in the summer, so i was able to go all summer (8k miles) after i reached my wear bars in the spring. good timing for me to be able to stretch out the life of them. now that fall is here its tire shopping time.
In theory, probably 4/32" for me.
Real world tire behavior just overruled that statement for me.
The OEM Goodyear Eagle GA's on my '00 firebird had around 5/32 left and I just couldn't stand the lack of wet traction and hydroplaning anymore. Got my new BFG traction t/a [H rated]. Sooo much nicer in the wet. Look neat too.
Real world tire behavior just overruled that statement for me.
The OEM Goodyear Eagle GA's on my '00 firebird had around 5/32 left and I just couldn't stand the lack of wet traction and hydroplaning anymore. Got my new BFG traction t/a [H rated]. Sooo much nicer in the wet. Look neat too.
I start pricing replacements at 3/32 and will go down to 2/32. If I'm near the monsoon season here in Florida I change over at 3/32 or 4/32 if the tires get skidish in the rain.
I suppose I would say I was pretty lucky with my tires being about 3/32 at the end of the winter, and I changed them out at 1/32 this summer. It wasn't legal or safe, I wouldn't go below 4/32 at the start of winter, or if I felt I wouldn't be able to safely stop or steer like last winter. My next car(either a corolla or a civic) will receive snow tires for in the winter, and the summer tires will be cheaper.
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With summer tires I go until the tread is down to the treadwear indicators. I haven't measured how much is left then, but it looks like 2 mm. If I were driving a lot on wet roads, I'd get new shoes earlier.
With winter tires I'd want at least 5-6 mm tread depth left.
With winter tires I'd want at least 5-6 mm tread depth left.
I would go just beyond half of the tread life and start shopping. This way you have plenty of time to wait out a good deal and replace your tires before you encounter any dangerous conditions...
Consumer Reports claims that tires begin to lose their effectiveness pretty quickly after half of the tread is gone...
Consumer Reports claims that tires begin to lose their effectiveness pretty quickly after half of the tread is gone...
When the wear bars are nearly exposed I start shopping. The Coopers on my car have 69,500 miles on them on the wear bars are just about even with the tread. New tires from Tirerack.com should be at my door step this afternoon as a matter of fact.
I wait until I see the second ply of the radial belt.
Seriously, I usually go down to the wear bar indicators, unless it is in winter. I change over to full snows in winter, and if they are getting somewhat less effective by the end of winter, I keep running them into the Spring.
You have to remember, the stingiest person in the world, Hetty Green, also lived in Vermont.
Seriously, I usually go down to the wear bar indicators, unless it is in winter. I change over to full snows in winter, and if they are getting somewhat less effective by the end of winter, I keep running them into the Spring.
You have to remember, the stingiest person in the world, Hetty Green, also lived in Vermont.
I'm more the 4/32nds sort of driver...unless Its summer and I'm the only driver then I might go longer.
On peformance cars driven only in the dry...I wear them all the way down since they handle very well as they get closer to being slicks.
On peformance cars driven only in the dry...I wear them all the way down since they handle very well as they get closer to being slicks.
i use the tread bars as a guide, but if wet performance starts to suffer, i look to change them. i had quite a bit of tread left on my last tires and they were fine in the dry, but wet traction was atrocious.
the guys at the tire shop were kind of surprised that someone would get rid of tires with that much tread, but if they can't pump out the water they're no good.
the guys at the tire shop were kind of surprised that someone would get rid of tires with that much tread, but if they can't pump out the water they're no good.
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