Assembly Lube For Overhaul

[1993_VG30E_GXE]

I'm overhauling the head and block. Is there an affordable assembly lube you can recommend and shall I use the same lube on all head components plus block components?

I notice Lubriplate makes a "MOTOR ASSEMBLY LUBE" but it's quite expensive.

 

[TheThickster]

CRC engine assembly lube.

 

[punisher]

Over the last 28 years I haven't found a lot of difference in assembly lubes. I use the regular white lubriplate on everything but "scuffing surfaces" ie flat tappet cams/rocker balls/pushrod ends etc. Scuff/high load surfaces get moly assembly lube.

I don't know if lubriplate is any better or worse than other assembly lubes, but it is easy to see when it is applied so you know you got that main/rod cap lubed. Nice to have in a shop environment with interruptions every 3 minutes and you forget what got lubed and what didn't.

EDIT: and Lubriplate doen't drip.

 

[Bluestream]

I have always used STP oil treatment, without any problems

 

[onion]

99% of the time, all I use is engine oil. Nothing wrong with using Lubriplate or STP oil treatment- but IMO, it's unnecessary in most cases. But I mostly overhaul industrial diesel engines, which use roller cams in most cases. Something a little more substantial is usually called for with flat-tapped cams (especially breaking in a new one). STP oil treatment works fine for this, and there are lots of assembly lubes out there made specifically for camshafts.

One time I rebuilt a French-made John Deere industrial engine where the manual specifically called for black molybdenum grease to be used on the camshaft and tappets. I did exactly that- out of curiosity as much as any deference to the manual. It immediately turned the oil sortof an opaque gray/black... but seemed to work fine.

 

[mechtech2]

Special assembly lubes for car engines are mostly for storage before starting.
I would use special lube on a flat tappet cam surface, though. Esp. if it is high performance with stiff springs.
But if you are simply putting an engine together and starting it in a week or so, engine oil is great for everything else.
Prime the pump, if possible.

 

[Kestas]

As usual, mechtech2 covered it.

 

[labman]

While graphite is discredited as an oil additive, I have wondered about assembly.

 

[1993_VG30E_GXE]

Thanks guys. After i've stripped it down and cleaned everything, can I wait to coat the parts immediately before I install it back together, or will it rust...especially the internal parts of the block and heads....as i'll be using the engine degreaser and laquer thinner.

I just don't want dust or dirt to get attached to the greased parts as it may be a week or 2 before assembly. That way I can just use the blow gun right before closing it up.

 

[Rooy]

Originally Posted By: 1993_VG30E_GXE
Thanks guys. After i've stripped it down and cleaned everything, can I wait to coat the parts immediately before I install it back together, or will it rust...especially the internal parts of the block and heads....as i'll be using the engine degreaser and laquer thinner.

I just don't want dust or dirt to get attached to the greased parts as it may be a week or 2 before assembly. That way I can just use the blow gun right before closing it up.


Oil any degreased parts immediately. They will rust quickly if you let them sit. If you're concerned about dust and dirt getting on them, put them in plastic bags.

 

[1993_VG30E_GXE]

Also Rooy, what about the areas of the block where the freeze plugs are, once I degrease all that, how do I oil those areas if I can't see them....plus can I put oil on that metal even though coolant will be going in there ultimately?