On the Mechanical /Maintenance Problems, Tips, and Tricks forum someone suggested that he shouldn't need AutoRx since the vehicle, with 85,000 miles on it, has been using Mobil 1 and had its oil changed every 3,000 miles. Is this correct, or will the M1 leave something that the ARX can (and should) remove?
ARX needed if Mobil 1 is used?
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he's wasting a good bit of oil if he's changing M1 out every 3k.
JHZR2
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some claim that resedues, sludge and combustion byproducts build up from day 1, so it is important to use auto rx even from relatively low mileages.
I disagree. Ive owned or maintained enough very high mileage vehicles to be able to see that as long as the vehicle is treated right, PM done, and relatively high quality products used, that it is unnecessary.
If an issue arises, perfect care isnt taken, the history is unknown, etc., then thats a different story. But for many, especially those interested in vehicle maintenance, DIY, etc., isnt the case.
JMH
I disagree. Ive owned or maintained enough very high mileage vehicles to be able to see that as long as the vehicle is treated right, PM done, and relatively high quality products used, that it is unnecessary.
If an issue arises, perfect care isnt taken, the history is unknown, etc., then thats a different story. But for many, especially those interested in vehicle maintenance, DIY, etc., isnt the case.
JMH
I have heard of engines slugging up running Mobil 1. However at 3K intervals, that is some maticulous care. I would run a cleaning with ARX, especially if its a turbo car. I would run a cleaning if had been overheated, had an internal fuel leak, used for heavy loads or towing. I might run it just for peace of mind.
what you may find is the Auto rx will clean the ring groves of carbon. I have a 92 v6 Toyota ,at 85,000 miles i decided to give Auto rx a try Now before I forget this engine has had Amsoil,Mobil 1 or redline since 800 miles. If the valve covers are removed the valve train and head look as new ,no sludge or varnish.I cut open the filters after both rinse cycles and found a black babypowder " very very lite" like coating on the filter .I have never seen this in the filter as every once in a while I'll cut open a filter. The engine runs and idles smoother and the oil takes alot longer to darken after an oil change. Don't know if you need it but in my case I am happy that I spent the money. Also Mobil1 will go way longer than 3,000 miles unless there is a problem with the motor or some extreme operating habits 7,500 miles would be easy for the oil.
As with most things regarding oil, there is no hard and fast rule. With some engines, the answer to your question is "yes"; with others, "no." My Saturn has had synthetic it's entire 214,000-mile life, yes, changed on average every 4,000 miles. Always Mobil 1, with short adventures with Redline or Amsoil. Engine still got dirty. Really dirty. Rings froze in their grooves, etc. The oil turns jet-black in a matter of 1000 miles. Always been that way, since day 1. You're looking for a rule of thumb: there isn't any. Those who say things like, "If you use Oil Brand X, you shouldn't ever have to clean your engine" are basing that conclusion on their subjective experience. My subjective experience says that's silly. Why? Because I drive a Saturn! Bottom line, you have no way of knowing without trying it for a few tens of thousands of miles, and then pulling things apart to see for yourself.
Why not use oil analysis and answer the question specifically for that engine regardless of what was used.
I see lots of engines in analysis that have been on a steady diet of high end lube chemistries that still are loaded with varnish,sludge precursers, high insolubles, PCV and EGR clogging, piston deposits, etc.
The motor oil brand and type is only one of many variables in these internal combustion air pumps we call engines.
I see lots of engines in analysis that have been on a steady diet of high end lube chemistries that still are loaded with varnish,sludge precursers, high insolubles, PCV and EGR clogging, piston deposits, etc.
The motor oil brand and type is only one of many variables in these internal combustion air pumps we call engines.
I think a good point to note is that even with full synthetic oil changes, at short intervals, this protocol would be fruitless in solving the gentlemans sludge issues on the sludge string below. A very wise man once coined the phrase,"oil can either clean or lubricate, but can't do both well". I will remember that quote forever.
My ranger 4cyl. has had Mobil 1 since new. I used the ARX at 60k miles and noticed no improvement. The oil filter on the initial phase was torn apart and no unusual amount of gunk was noted. Half way through the rinse now and the oil still looks clean on the dip stick and no changes in operation detected from the seat of the pants. So, my guess would be a very unhelpful "maybe not". Frank suggested I do another rinse phase for 2k and see if anything changes. I kind of have my doubts though. Maybe a good product, but on well taken care of synthetic using auto's....I don't think it may be needed. Unless you've got over 100k maybe.
With those low miles and frequent oil changes with M1 - I doubt it too.
Correct me if I'm incorrect, but, I believe that if solids start showing up on your UOA (Butler and Dyson In-House test for this) or if the insolubles start reading high, those can be sludge precursors.
Michael
Michael has part of it. TRD, yes oxd and nit are a part of the puzzle.
I look at the total signature compared to the known oil and engine signatures, look at statistical data for that formula at that mileage in that engine. Then account for repairs,maintenance issues, tune level, contamination, and any known oil or fuel add chemistries.
Then I use experience in interpreting these things to make a call and a recommendation/regimen that counters/corrects what we see.
Terry
I look at the total signature compared to the known oil and engine signatures, look at statistical data for that formula at that mileage in that engine. Then account for repairs,maintenance issues, tune level, contamination, and any known oil or fuel add chemistries.
Then I use experience in interpreting these things to make a call and a recommendation/regimen that counters/corrects what we see.
Terry
Even an engine that has used a PAO based synlube from day one can benefit from ARX - specifically to clean the varnish/carbon deposits from the ring grooves and piston skirts.
I was HIGHLY doubtful when brother Terry told me this, but three years of testing have proven him right (of course as we say in Huntsville, even a blin' squirrel finds a nut now and agin'
). Any solvent based product will clean sludge from the oil pan and valve train - that's easy. But ARX is the only thing I've found short of tearing the engine down that effectively cleans the ring pack "in-situ".
Tooslick
I was HIGHLY doubtful when brother Terry told me this, but three years of testing have proven him right (of course as we say in Huntsville, even a blin' squirrel finds a nut now and agin'
Tooslick
So far all the offers contain little cash on the front end a little cash on the back end a royalty thats not guaranteed. Oil company's want a little dab of Auto-Rx to replace 60% of there additive package (can't do that ratio's call for 2 ounces in each quart of motor or gear oil) they tried cutting it with a solvent Auto-Rx eat there "thinner"
Frank that is ironic!! "It eats their thinner!"!!!! THe very thing you tried to elimanate with your product is consumed by it!! That is too funy!!!
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