arx, consumption, restore, ideas, theories, questions.

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going to kinda recap a series of events... to get the ball rolling (many of you are familiar with these events from my other posts)...


1. purchase 1995 isuzu rodeo with 144,000 miles in summer of 2004.
*rodeo begins ticking shortly thereafter.
*burns about 1qt/1000miles at time of purchase.
*I read up, and discover, that these are common issues with isuzus, but that they are not immediatally destructive to the engine.

2. I begin a pursuit, of trying different oils, and addatives, to eliminate my ticking and consumption.

3. I find that "engine-restore" seems to act like a miracle. eliminating the ticking, and slightly reducing consumption (not by much, down to about 0.8qt/1000mi)

4. The ticking begins to return after a few oil changes using "restore."... I begin to loose faith, and stop using it...

5. In april of 2005, I buy a 2001 suzuki swift (second vehicle), with only 53,000 miles.

6. Back in high gear to find something to help the isuzu ticking issue again.. I discover bitog, and an isuzu forum. I try seafoam on the recomendation of other isuzu users. (no luck with seafoam)

7. At this point, I feel reasured in my previous decision to have stopped using the retore in the isuzu, and leary about having used it at all. The ticking continued, sometimes loud, sometimes quiet, consumption went back up to 1qt/1000 miles.

8. In my learning about oil and other car related information through bitog, I have a peek into the suzuki, and then pull the valve cover. sludge (yay)... a young engine, that's not sludge prone, full of it. (I've posted picts and links to picts around on here)

9. By this point I have learned about products like ARX, LC, and a whole host of other oils and addatives and what they do, or don't do.., I decide to use ARX in both vehicles at some point.


10. Somewhere along the lines there, I had picked up the tidbit that isuzu recomends 0w30 weight synthetic oil for the ticking. (and later learn, the exact causes of the ticking). I become a bit of a GC nut at this point (right towards the end of the availability of "green" stuff...)... So, I had some fun collecting bottles of green GC. (had 54 bottles at one point)

11. I run an OCI on the GC, and liked it. The ticking was less intense, morning starts were smoother. consumption continued at 1qt/1000mi.

12. I decide to send a sample of the GC i ran off to DYSON/BLACKSTONE.... (drained at 3500 miles)..

13. The oil had signs of the high consumption rate, luckily, no major issues like coolant or fuel. The bizzare part, was the very high lead and copper- which, has been accociated with my use of "restore" in the past.

14. At the time of the oil analysis coming back, I was well on my way into the "clean" cycle of rx on the isuzu. The first several hundred miles were scary, (I made a post about it)... The ticking was louder than ever in the hostory of this vehicle.

15. ARX seems to "cure" the tick all of the sudden. (bringing it down to a naunce of tick, that is very reasonable, and only noticable at idle). I notice a dropoff in oil consumption towards the end of the clean cycle.

16. after about a 1650 mile "clean" phase (didn't have a chance to get it changed at exactly 1500), I drained and started the rinse phase.

17. The rinse phase, seems to startoff fairly well, but about 500 miles into it, I start to notice blue smoke out my tailpipe, on launch, and when pulling hills and running the engine hard. This is something that in the past, I had only ever seen when dumping the clutch between gears (i know, i know)

18. I check my oil at 500 miles into the rinse phase, i'm 1.2 quarts low(I top off). The smoking continues on and off. (some days I notice it more than others, for whatever reason)... consumption is really high, to say the least.

19. I'm at about 900 miles into the rinse phase, consumption continues. I'm worried. I thought that I had finally solved my consumption issues when it declined so much towards the end of the clean cycle, and now it's higher than ever.

20. In reading around on bitog, I learn, that a university has done a study, showing that slightly used oil (containing some small metal wear particles), actually causes less wear than fresh oil. (they used some kinda radioactive measurement technology)...

21. I start to wonder if "engine restore" isn't really as bad as people say it is, considering *20*... I also begin at this point, to believe, that "restore" may very well do something similar to what it says on the bottle, proof of it having "imbedded" itself into the metal in my engine, could be through the fact that it was still showing up in a UOA many oil changes after it's use.

22. I've been under the impression, by my reading about ARX, that, much of the "cleaning" takes place, in the rinse phase- possibly- polerized sludge and particles, "cling" to the fresh non-polerized oil. or something to that effect... Maybe "restore" was removed from the metal, by arx, resulting in more blowby.

23. I would also like to point out, that at 900 miles into the rinse phase... I seem to have lost some power that I felt I had gained back when I was in the "clean" phase. And the ticking is cropping back up again.

24. Maybe this engine is about toast, and I should give up on it, and just find a different SUV, or rebuild the engine in this one.

25. Maybe I should finish out the ARX, another 1100mi rinse, topping off as neccessary, then start another clean phase, and then another rinse phase(as recomended for vehicles over 100k), and see how things go when I switch back to GC after 2 cycles of arx.

26. Terry has suggested I get going on LC20 with the GC(after arxing)... He thinks it may help reduce consumption and get my insolubles under control.

27. What I want to do, is *25* followed by *26*.. and see how it goes... if consumption remains incredably high, i'll be going back to restore, saving the GC I have collected for the suzuki, and we'll see what happens.


Ok, that's where I'm at now.... If anybody has any ideas, about the consumption issues, or would like to chime in on anything else, I would greatly apreciate it.
 
I like the LC idea, but with that much consumption, why are you using a 0-30??? Even though it's an A3 oil (compared to other 30 weights), why not use a 5-40 (eg. Delvac 1) or a 5-40/50 (Syntec) to cure the consumption, blue smoke/burnoff, and ticking???

My current combo is Syntec 5-50 and LC to clean, quiet lifters and cure consumption....
 
The cleaning takes place in the cleaning part of the application.Removing dirt,contaminants, etc starts with the rinse cycle. You can't have any idea about your engine and it's performance until you completely finish application. if you have done the first Auto-Rx applications correctly no need for a third one.
 
quote:

but with that much consumption, why are you using a 0-30

Actually.... I've tried heavy weight oils in the past, to see if it would help curb the burning a little bit- the effects were negligable, still burned about 1qt/1000mi on 20W50(then added 2 bottles of STP to the 20w50 for a short term experiment, (summertime), and ran for about 1000 miles, still about 1 quart of consumption) . So with that variable already tried, and now having a better understanding of the somewhat "special" needs of the hydrolic tensioners, I've decided on 0W30. Like I said.. If I can't get consumption under control, I'll head the direction of a cheaper oil, (maybe trop arctic).


Frank- Thankyou for chiming in on my concerns...

at this point in time, i've completed 1 full clean phase, and i'm 900 miles into a rinse phase... so I do plan to finish out this rinse phase, and proceed with a second cleaning and rinsing. I'm still crossing my fingers, that after things really clean out well, the rings will reseat, and consumption will get back to a reasonable level.
 
It sounds like the oil is being sucked past the valve guides. Since the thicker oil did not help they must be fairly bad. I would continue with the auto-rx for sure. However with this bad a case you probably need a valve job. A dry/wet compression check will tell you if the rings are good. My bet is the rings are fine. The auto-rx was working on the valve seals and reduced your consumption temp. That is a good sign that a full treatment may have some good effect. Continue to number 35
grin.gif
 
Mdocod, I have a Rodeo ('94 3.2L 149,000 miles). You may have already considered this, but is this ticking different from what a failed timing belt tensioner sounds like?
 
i've alread looked into the timing belt tensioner- which is another common ticking problem on these vehicles...my ticking is sharp metalic ticking. It's loudest point is through the valve covers, and there are other adjusters accross the valvetrane that can be heard mildly ticking as well, (if you have your head in the engine compartment).

Just to make sure I wasn't misdiagnosing it, I've had 2 mechanics listen to it. (one a reputable guy I know, who is familiar with imports, including isuzu, and the other was a mechanic at a local isuzu dealer) They both said it's valvetrane ticking. (however, neithor of them, clued me in to it's cause- which is indicated in the TSB for the ticking, the cause being contamination. Which is unfortunate, because the first mechanic I brought it to to listen to it, was only about 4000 miles after the ticking started- at a point when a lot less damage had occured as a result, and at a point when arxing it, would have been much more ideal) If I had found out about arx, and the TSB then, I could have restored tension and oil flow to the adjuster long before perminant damage occured.

hehe.
 
I've got a version of what you've got + a noisy but impossible to find exhaust leak. Using Auto-RX and trying different weight oils for the one, ignoring the other. Just about to begin second cleaning.

Also just administered the first dose of FP60, immediately noticed quicker starts just as you described in another thread.
 
The reason for the consumption is the ring design in the 3.2 Isuzu engine. I had a 2000 Trooper that did the same thing. Did some digging and found out that the oil drainback holes in the rings are too small and too few to properly do their job. I also had the exact experience with ARx in the clean phase. I think the dino oil in rinse is what gets gummed up in the rings due to the heat of those engines. Unfortunately there is no cure for the oil consumption. I used Delo 15w-40 in mine and it did very little good. I traded the thing in and forgot about it. On the plus side that Trooper had no limits as far as going places. It would go in 20 inches of snow and ice or through muddy fields. I miss that, but not the oil issues.
 
I've read about the design failure- however... I've also read, that the failure, doesn't show it's ugly face untill the undersized drains start to plug up... Same problem with the undersized galleys that run into the hydrolic adjusters.... they work fine when new and clean, but a small amount of contamination, and problems crop up... Thus- I'm hoping arx might help aleviate some of the issues.... I know several people with the 3.2, over 100k, and no oil consumption at all. So, I think there is hope.

I can live with 1qt/1000mi, If it levels out and stays that way, i'll just deal with it and keep adding oil and changing it frequently.... At 181,000 miles, and still humming along strong, I can't complain too much.

Like you were saying, these things are really incredable, last winter I was pusing through snow that was well up over the air dam... I was out in a blizzard, driving on a side street, and I "hit" something... I couldn't see more than a few feet, but when I saw the hunk of snow slide up onto the hood, I realized I had hit, and plowed through, a drift of snow that was over the hood. kept on going.
 
I'm closing the gap on the end of the rinse phase now... will be draining in a few days..

Wanted to update.: The oil consumption is dropping off some. less blue smoke in the last few hundred miles. The ticking doesn't seem to be all that great right now... however... i'm thinking the filter is probably pluggin up a bit.. slowing down the flow a bit... we'll find out what the filter looks like sometime in the next week or 2 when I change the oil and have a chance to rip it apart and take picts. (previous filters from the cleaning phase, had sediment that could be found by rubbing a finger between pleats, but nothing major enough to show a "buildup" on the filter in picts...)
 
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