Cruze has 91k on it bought it around 80k. Unsure if rotors ever been touched. So the issue is when i brake from 80 or more the steering wheel shakes which tells me rotors. But they dont do it daily driving or quick 60 mph stops just higher speeds. Im 90% sure its the rotors just wanted some opinions. Also i rotated and rebalanced my tires with no change. Wheel bearings have no play.
Are my rotors warped?
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My vote is yes!
You might get away with just sanding ng them with 220 grit to remove any “shiny spots”. They are likely not warped but have spors that stick better than others. Might show up moreso at higher speeds which create higher heat.
Just checked my wifes 12 Cruze..she complained of it acting funny when she hits the brakes.. the rotors are glazed and i can feel alot of drag trying to spin the wheels so im guessing the ears are too snug in the brackets.. causing it to drag. She wants the $60 rotors and pads set on Ebay.
I file my ears and make sure they slide nicely...i have seen alot of pads lately that are wedged in too tight..causing glazing and warpage.
I file my ears and make sure they slide nicely...i have seen alot of pads lately that are wedged in too tight..causing glazing and warpage.
Rock Auto has the OEM rotors at a reasonable price. But if you still don't want to spend that much, get the Wagner E-coated rotors or EBC Premium.
Rockauto also has the OEM pads, but they are kind of expensive. Akebono ProACT and EBC Ultimax pads are also very good and cost less.
Rockauto also has the OEM pads, but they are kind of expensive. Akebono ProACT and EBC Ultimax pads are also very good and cost less.
Originally Posted By: KJSmith
No such thing, but no point in arguing all that.
The cure, grease the slide pins with some silicone based grease and go with a more aggressive pad.
Horse Hockey! My brake lathe begs to differ. That's not pad material that was stuck to the rotor all over the floor, its metal. Argue it all you want!
OP you probably have warped rotors.
No such thing, but no point in arguing all that.
The cure, grease the slide pins with some silicone based grease and go with a more aggressive pad.
Horse Hockey! My brake lathe begs to differ. That's not pad material that was stuck to the rotor all over the floor, its metal. Argue it all you want!
OP you probably have warped rotors.
"Usually" no, if rotors have so-called warpage, it is far more noticeable at low speeds, coming to a stop.
It seems more likely that one of the pads is binding, that you aren't noticing at slower speeds because the rest of the brakes are more easily making up for it.
If you have warped rotors you should be able to tell by looking at them. If they don't look right, yeah time to replace them and probably new pads too while you're at it if you want best life out of both.
Do check all other suspension components while you're looking at the brake components.
It seems more likely that one of the pads is binding, that you aren't noticing at slower speeds because the rest of the brakes are more easily making up for it.
If you have warped rotors you should be able to tell by looking at them. If they don't look right, yeah time to replace them and probably new pads too while you're at it if you want best life out of both.
Do check all other suspension components while you're looking at the brake components.
I dont think its pad binding. It doesnt pull ever it drives super straight. Also when lifted i can spin all the tires with very little resistance. All my suspension is good i did swap my poly end links to solid end links but i dont think that has anything to do with it.
Originally Posted By: slacktide_bitog
Rock Auto has the OEM rotors at a reasonable price. But if you still don't want to spend that much, get the Wagner E-coated rotors or EBC Premium.
Rockauto also has the OEM pads, but they are kind of expensive. Akebono ProACT and EBC Ultimax pads are also very good and cost less.
I was gonna go with some stoptech pads that where for daily driving plus spirited. Hoping i will get a little more stopping power. I will shop around and see what other cruze owners are running for rotors.
Rock Auto has the OEM rotors at a reasonable price. But if you still don't want to spend that much, get the Wagner E-coated rotors or EBC Premium.
Rockauto also has the OEM pads, but they are kind of expensive. Akebono ProACT and EBC Ultimax pads are also very good and cost less.
I was gonna go with some stoptech pads that where for daily driving plus spirited. Hoping i will get a little more stopping power. I will shop around and see what other cruze owners are running for rotors.
The rotors are of uneven thickness. Because of pad deposits.
A dial gauge will tell.
Not much you can do. Replace pads and rotors. Akebono ProAct ceramic.
I could do all the right things for my Jeep GC and it would get the virbation associated with warped rotors (they are not really warped).
I could put cheap brakes on my 1999 Dodge Ram 2500 and it always had great brakes.
A dial gauge will tell.
Not much you can do. Replace pads and rotors. Akebono ProAct ceramic.
I could do all the right things for my Jeep GC and it would get the virbation associated with warped rotors (they are not really warped).
I could put cheap brakes on my 1999 Dodge Ram 2500 and it always had great brakes.
I just put the Callahan auto ebay ceramic pads and new front rotors on my 11 Sonata.
It was like 70 dollars shipped for all, after the ebay coupon.
I was happy with the product. It is not no name parts, the rotors were centric and the pads were no name but they work fine.
I broke them in properly and cleaned everything perfect, and it doesn't make a squeek, vibration and stops perfect.
I would say the callahan parts would be in line with anything purchased locally from a parts store.
It was like 70 dollars shipped for all, after the ebay coupon.
I was happy with the product. It is not no name parts, the rotors were centric and the pads were no name but they work fine.
I broke them in properly and cleaned everything perfect, and it doesn't make a squeek, vibration and stops perfect.
I would say the callahan parts would be in line with anything purchased locally from a parts store.
I would put it up in air and check front end components.
If the rotors were warped, they you would feel pulsing at all times.
If the rotors were warped, they you would feel pulsing at all times.
Originally Posted By: Donald
The rotors are of uneven thickness. Because of pad deposits.
A dial gauge will tell.
A dial gauge will only indicate runout. Runout by itself does not cause pulsation. A micrometer is a better tool for detecting thickness variation, which is the cause of the pedal pulsation.
The rotors are of uneven thickness. Because of pad deposits.
A dial gauge will tell.
A dial gauge will only indicate runout. Runout by itself does not cause pulsation. A micrometer is a better tool for detecting thickness variation, which is the cause of the pedal pulsation.
The easiest and cheapest way to check for warped rotors is to pick up a cheap, clamp on dial indicator. You can pick one up from Harbor Freight for just a few bucks. Pull off a wheel and clamp it to an accessible suspension part, and check the runout. It will accurately tell you within a thousandth. Then you will know exactly what you are dealing with, before you start spending money on rotors.
https://www.harborfreight.com/clamping-dial-indicator-93051.html
https://www.harborfreight.com/clamping-dial-indicator-93051.html
Edit to my original post.. 3 of the lug nuts on each wheel of her Cruze I had to remove with a cheater bar. So i do think her rotors are warped. Those dealership mechanics with their big Snap On guns...
I didnt pull hers all the way down to inspect because the rotors looked horrible and she was below half a pad.
I didnt pull hers all the way down to inspect because the rotors looked horrible and she was below half a pad.
I have an '03 Corolla and experienced steering wheel shake (~1" side to side) during highway braking. Not brake pedal pulsation as that symptom would strongly suggest investigating the rotors. The cause was my Firestone tire developing a bad belt even though more than sufficient tread depth. I wouldn't have guess because the car passed inspection a month prior to this but then again I'm not sure how the technician would have been able to replicate this without a test drive. Sure enough after replacing all tires, problem is gone. Maybe keep this in mind as you start diagnosing root cause with your car.
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