Apparently either SKF doesn't make their Bearings as good as they used to or RockAuto sold me a counterfeit.

Also post up how RA handles it. They're typically good but slow, ie they'll just want you to send the old one back and they'll send out a new one.

You might also contact SKF, they might want to see it and they might be more responsive to a complaint from a customer....maybe
They wanted me to buy a new one first and have me return the old one afterwards.
 
That is the problem buying online instead of the dealer or say Napa. You pay more but the car is not off the road for a week or more.
When I buy online I ask myself if things all turn to sh.. can I have the car off the road, for me personally its not a problem as I don't depend on any one car.
 
That is the problem buying online instead of the dealer or say Napa. You pay more but the car is not off the road for a week or more.
When I buy online I ask myself if things all turn to sh.. can I have the car off the road, for me personally its not a problem as I don't depend on any one car.
If next one that gets here Wed or Thur ends up being counterfeit I'm shelling out 200 for a AC Delco genuine hub at the dealership.
 
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I just did one 162 lb.ft without the wheel being mounted.

sub cv nut.jpg


For the OP's Buick, it seems it may be possible that mounting the wheel, lowing the vehicle then tightening the center nut could damage the bearing.

buick cv nut.jpg
 
Don't know what to say. Based on my previous experience with the old bearings I'm inclined to believe it failed due to being counterfeit and not install error. Also the bearing was very tight and hard to turn out of the box which leads me to believe either incorrect tolerances or no grease when it comes to the new bearing.
 
Don't know what to say. Based on my previous experience with the old bearings I'm inclined to believe it failed due to being counterfeit and not install error. Also the bearing was very tight and hard to turn out of the box which leads me to believe either incorrect tolerances or no grease when it comes to the new bearing.

I just received an email from SKF, the bearing is already in the car so there is no way to verify its authenticity so there is nothing more left to do but wait and see. This was in their email.

The best way to safeguard authenticity of SKF products is to buy from distributors authorized by SKF, the list of distributors can be found on skf.com/www.skf.com/group/support/find-a-distributor[/URL]>.

Every other part on the job is OE but having used SKF all my life without issue I figured it would be a good part, the only question in my mind is Rock buying from someone who is selling fakes. Time will tell, but hearing the same thing from NGK it kinda puts me off buying from them anymore.
One thing I can tell you new SKF hubs can feel rough, tight and even gritty right out if the box, this is normal for them. My advise to you for what its worth would be buy one from an authorized dealer, OE GM dealer or a brick and mortar store, install it and return the other for a refund.

 
I just received an email from SKF, the bearing is already in the car so there is no way to verify its authenticity so there is nothing more left to do but wait and see. This was in their email.

The best way to safeguard authenticity of SKF products is to buy from distributors authorized by SKF, the list of distributors can be found on skf.com/www.skf.com/group/support/find-a-distributor[/URL]>.

Every other part on the job is OE but having used SKF all my life without issue I figured it would be a good part, the only question in my mind is Rock buying from someone who is selling fakes. Time will tell, but hearing the same thing from NGK it kinda puts me off buying from them anymore.
One thing I can tell you new SKF hubs can feel rough, tight and even gritty right out if the box, this is normal for them. My advise to you for what its worth would be buy one from an authorized dealer, OE GM dealer or a brick and mortar store, install it and return the other for a refund.

I'm doing just that. Scanning the new hub box before install and if it doesn't check out over to the dealership.
 
Front end off the ground, stick an alignment punch or suitably sized screwdriver in the slots of the rotor and let it come to rest against the caliper and tighten to spec
 
But wouldn't a thoughtful counterfeiter also put a counterfeit bar code on the box? I don't understand how that would provide certainty of authenticity.
 
But wouldn't a thoughtful counterfeiter also put a counterfeit bar code on the box? I don't understand how that would provide certainty of authenticity.
It's not. You have to scan the code to find out if it's a likely counterfeit.
 
But wouldn't a thoughtful counterfeiter also put a counterfeit bar code on the box? I don't understand how that would provide certainty of authenticity.


I would think that if that were to happen it would have to come from inside the company.
 
Response from RockAuto.

Basically: Our Parts source came from an SKF approved stock. Go bother them. Otherwise return the part. I called SKF and they gave me the email to a guy that handles legal matters so if they don't refund me I'll be shooting him an email.
 
Response from RockAuto.

Basically: Our Parts source came from an SKF approved stock. Go bother them. Otherwise return the part. I called SKF and they gave me the email to a guy that handles legal matters so if they don't refund me I'll be shooting him an email.
This is what was on the one I got from Rock, try to find this vendor. This looks a shady as a giant beach umbrella.

IMG_0045.JPG
 
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