Anything wrong with using traditional green?

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Truck is a 2002 F150. This is around the time they switched the spec over to what is Zerex G05.

Truck came from the factory with green. Around the time the first drain/fill came around, I was too confused with my options, and couldn't find Zerex, so I used Prestone all makes.

Then I found Zerex a little later. Drained out the prestone, put in Zerex.

I'm thinking it's time to do a drain, flush, chemical clean as there is some gunk/scale buildup inside the plastic reservoir, and then rinse, and refill.

I think around here a gallon of Zerex full strength runs $18-$20. Traditional green can be had for $9.99.

Part of me wants to go back to green simply because Zerex is yellow so it is very difficult to tell when/if it is contaminated because it just changes shades slightly. I remember that the green stuff would become visibly dark with age. My understanding from Ford is that if the vehicle came with Motorcraft Premium Yellow, then you need to stick with it. If it came with green, you can continue using green or change out to yellow (or even mix the two, but then the service interval is for green, not yellow)

Is my thinking illogical? I don't mind using Zerex again but this truck is old and I'm trying to avoid the "boutique" methods of maintenance (for example, I only use SuperTech oil now, cheap tires, etc..), but I want to keep it running and trouble free until the wheels fall off.
 
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If your truck came with good old green I say go back to it.

I recommend using cascade powder instead of a flush. Mix it with hot water and pour it in then fill the system the way you normally would. That will clean everything out nice and after 1-2 just water flushes you will be good for good old green

p.s. Supertech is a great oil! 5k changes and use the motorcraft filters. Good price and a great filter.
 
Originally Posted By: Bgallagher
If your truck came with good old green I say go back to it.

I recommend using cascade powder instead of a flush. Mix it with hot water and pour it in then fill the system the way you normally would. That will clean everything out nice and after 1-2 just water flushes you will be good for good old green

p.s. Supertech is a great oil! 5k changes and use the motorcraft filters. Good price and a great filter.


I would think hard before introducing gritty dishwasher detergent into an automotive cooling system and especially to the water pump. I would ask for a little more backup on this "recommendation."
 
Put a gallon of simple green mixed with water in it, ford factory recommended to clean diesel cooling systems contaminated with oil. works good.
 
My adult kids have an '02 Escort and Ranger that came with green. That's the year of the switch (July), but I encouraged them to just stay with the green.

It's been preached here time and again that today's green is better chemistry (lower silicates) than the old stuff. Zerex recommends their current/new green for 5 years/100,000 miles, but I still think it's best to change out around 3 years and under 75,000 miles.

Make sure you really flush out your system with clean water before changing coolant types.

Regarding economics, by the time you consider change out times, there isn't enough price difference to warrant the trouble in my opinion. Either way, you are good.

Here's the Ford coolant chart that you seem to be familiar with: http://www.fcsdchemicalsandlubricants.com/main/quickref/scucEN.pdf
 
I've had GREAT luck with the G-05/Premium Gold, only problems I've heard have been clogging of oil-water coolers on PSD diesels. I'm actually considering switching my '93 6.2 diesel GMC & son's '98 Jeep 4.0 to it, and I retrofitted it to my '82 300D 6 years ago-no problems other than a loose hose clamp.
 
And the G-05/PG just gets darker with age, contamination shows up as a darker brown. Conventional green AF has improved immensely over the old days, Zerex actually states their green can go 5 years without changing, although I wouldn't go over 3 myself.
 
+1 on bullwinkles info. I have done the cascade/hot water flushing on my Civic with NO ILL EFFECTS at all. Put honda coolant back in mine, still runs great. What I have heard from 2 of my mechanic friends that I work with is that "traditional green" will etch aluminum parts.


just my 2 cents on the matter.
 
traditional green works well with aluminim parts as long as it's changed/ replaced on time. I'm still anti long life coolant and we use conventional green in everything unless the customer requests something else.
 
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