Anyone with more than 200k miles cars/trucks
- Thread starter M1Accord
- Start date
- Status
Originally Posted By: fdcg27
Originally Posted By: JHZR2
94 toyota previa (230k) and 96 MB E300D (210k) have needed nothing but standard wear items and fluids.
I have a bunch of other MB diesels which all were well over 200k, and also had original transmissions, nothing required, but they did get valve covers removed regularly for valve adjustments... not sure how you want to count them.
The key is gentle driving and understanding and respeting physics. Nobody needs to think they are "sporty" when driving, as this, IMO/IME causes excess wear.
Based upon our/friends' experiences, I would not expect a Honda product to hit 200k without needing at minimum a radiator and some rubber parts... And an AT if it is an auto vehicle. The engine will surely go way more than that running quite well but the car/parts are poor in certain areas.
We kept one of our 123 diesels long enough to get to 210K.
Other than the speedo cable break that is generic to all old Mercedes, and which is easy to replace, we had very litle trouble with the car.
Our two '86 Civics both passed 200K on their original radiators.
OTOH, the '97 Accord needed a rad at about 127K.
Is it just me, or were earlier Hondas more durable in general?
I think that earlier Mercedes were more durable than current models.
Earlier Honda's were built with longivity in mind and didn't care much for power, they were built to be efficient transportation. Their customers knew it and this is why we have Honda from the 80s getting 50+ mpg and the regular Honda/Acura gets past 30 mpg without any problem. The current Honda got fatter, way fatter, and try to cramp as much power as possible. Something has to give.
The fact that they're built in the U.S. also contribute to them as being as good as they could be.
But the big factor that make all other factors important/relavent is that current Honda owners don't do maintanance like those of earlier era. This can be said for other makes too. People think they are too cool to do their own maintanance. Most stop all car care practice the moment they buy a new car because they think they're (not the car) dealership material instead of shade tree or empty garage in the evening and weekend. People spend more time on the tube/web than they do taking care of their 2nd largest investment.
Originally Posted By: JHZR2
94 toyota previa (230k) and 96 MB E300D (210k) have needed nothing but standard wear items and fluids.
I have a bunch of other MB diesels which all were well over 200k, and also had original transmissions, nothing required, but they did get valve covers removed regularly for valve adjustments... not sure how you want to count them.
The key is gentle driving and understanding and respeting physics. Nobody needs to think they are "sporty" when driving, as this, IMO/IME causes excess wear.
Based upon our/friends' experiences, I would not expect a Honda product to hit 200k without needing at minimum a radiator and some rubber parts... And an AT if it is an auto vehicle. The engine will surely go way more than that running quite well but the car/parts are poor in certain areas.
We kept one of our 123 diesels long enough to get to 210K.
Other than the speedo cable break that is generic to all old Mercedes, and which is easy to replace, we had very litle trouble with the car.
Our two '86 Civics both passed 200K on their original radiators.
OTOH, the '97 Accord needed a rad at about 127K.
Is it just me, or were earlier Hondas more durable in general?
I think that earlier Mercedes were more durable than current models.
Earlier Honda's were built with longivity in mind and didn't care much for power, they were built to be efficient transportation. Their customers knew it and this is why we have Honda from the 80s getting 50+ mpg and the regular Honda/Acura gets past 30 mpg without any problem. The current Honda got fatter, way fatter, and try to cramp as much power as possible. Something has to give.
The fact that they're built in the U.S. also contribute to them as being as good as they could be.
But the big factor that make all other factors important/relavent is that current Honda owners don't do maintanance like those of earlier era. This can be said for other makes too. People think they are too cool to do their own maintanance. Most stop all car care practice the moment they buy a new car because they think they're (not the car) dealership material instead of shade tree or empty garage in the evening and weekend. People spend more time on the tube/web than they do taking care of their 2nd largest investment.
Quote:
Do some of the other cars in this thread still have the original timing belt and water pump?
Never changed either one on the '91 Suzuki Swift GA.
I was angry at the whole world because my 1st wife maxxed out the credit cards, emptied the bank account, took everything but my motorcycle and my clothes and disappeared. She wasn't going to pay off the cards so I was going to be in financial trouble for awhile. I had to buy a cheap car. A wrecked Suzuki Swift. bolted on a front clip from a Geo Metro and just drove it.
Lots of things broke on that car. Interior window handles stripped, door handles broke off completely, the latch for the seat back snapped and dropped me horizontal while driving, the muffler rotted out (and an old GSXR muffler was welded in place, Road rash side up) it was a cheap car. but nothing on the powertrain could be faulted.
But the clutch, brake pads and shoes, and CV boot were the only mechanical things that you needed to have to drive the car that failed. Never touched the timing belt.
P155/80R13 tires wore out too, but they were $15.99 ea at Western Auto.
Do some of the other cars in this thread still have the original timing belt and water pump?
Never changed either one on the '91 Suzuki Swift GA.
I was angry at the whole world because my 1st wife maxxed out the credit cards, emptied the bank account, took everything but my motorcycle and my clothes and disappeared. She wasn't going to pay off the cards so I was going to be in financial trouble for awhile. I had to buy a cheap car. A wrecked Suzuki Swift. bolted on a front clip from a Geo Metro and just drove it.
Lots of things broke on that car. Interior window handles stripped, door handles broke off completely, the latch for the seat back snapped and dropped me horizontal while driving, the muffler rotted out (and an old GSXR muffler was welded in place, Road rash side up) it was a cheap car. but nothing on the powertrain could be faulted.
But the clutch, brake pads and shoes, and CV boot were the only mechanical things that you needed to have to drive the car that failed. Never touched the timing belt.
P155/80R13 tires wore out too, but they were $15.99 ea at Western Auto.
100K is just about broken in for me, 200k is 'start thinking about a new one'
never had an oil related failure, never ran an oil test either. perhaps the two are related ;-)
never had an oil related failure, never ran an oil test either. perhaps the two are related ;-)
Hmmm. You want pictures. The only vehicle I have a picture of the odometer that went over 200K was my '00 tundra. The last odo pic I took was at either 175k or 180k. I sold it with 220K. I will try to find them.
One fan clutch, one set of spider gears, one timing belt, one MAF and a bunch of O2 sensors.
One fan clutch, one set of spider gears, one timing belt, one MAF and a bunch of O2 sensors.
These pics were all taken with 170-180K. I don't have any from 220K but it looked exactly the same. The only pieces of the truck that showed wear were the headers and the skidplate. This truck spent a lot more time mudding and off road than you would suspect, other than from looking at the skidplate and frame crossmembers
Last edited:
When it was being offroaded I it looked like this:
JHZR2
Staff member
Originally Posted By: fdcg27
We kept one of our 123 diesels long enough to get to 210K.
Other than the speedo cable break that is generic to all old Mercedes, and which is easy to replace, we had very litle trouble with the car.
Our two '86 Civics both passed 200K on their original radiators.
OTOH, the '97 Accord needed a rad at about 127K.
Is it just me, or were earlier Hondas more durable in general?
I think that earlier Mercedes were more durable than current models.
I'm sure you are right on both! While either in newest form will surely go 200k+, I think the hassles getting there will be greater...
We kept one of our 123 diesels long enough to get to 210K.
Other than the speedo cable break that is generic to all old Mercedes, and which is easy to replace, we had very litle trouble with the car.
Our two '86 Civics both passed 200K on their original radiators.
OTOH, the '97 Accord needed a rad at about 127K.
Is it just me, or were earlier Hondas more durable in general?
I think that earlier Mercedes were more durable than current models.
I'm sure you are right on both! While either in newest form will surely go 200k+, I think the hassles getting there will be greater...
JHZR2
Staff member
Originally Posted By: M1Accord
Earlier Honda's were built with longivity in mind and didn't care much for power, they were built to be efficient transportation. Their customers knew it and this is why we have Honda from the 80s getting 50+ mpg and the regular Honda/Acura gets past 30 mpg without any problem. The current Honda got fatter, way fatter, and try to cramp as much power as possible. Something has to give.
The fact that they're built in the U.S. also contribute to them as being as good as they could be.
But the big factor that make all other factors important/relavent is that current Honda owners don't do maintanance like those of earlier era. This can be said for other makes too. People think they are too cool to do their own maintanance. Most stop all car care practice the moment they buy a new car because they think they're (not the car) dealership material instead of shade tree or empty garage in the evening and weekend. People spend more time on the tube/web than they do taking care of their 2nd largest investment.
Agree with most... not sure about the US made part... And IMO the radiators that are being used are just downright poor, as are the Honda rubber parts. We ran into this with our integra, despite regular coolant changes, etc. Radiator plastic is prone to cracking in those cars, and things like rubber seals, windshield seal, etc. showed horrible UV resistance compared to our equally aged and used toyota previa which still looks like new. BTW, the radiators and hoses on my ~30 yo MB and my ~20yo BMW are all original.
Earlier Honda's were built with longivity in mind and didn't care much for power, they were built to be efficient transportation. Their customers knew it and this is why we have Honda from the 80s getting 50+ mpg and the regular Honda/Acura gets past 30 mpg without any problem. The current Honda got fatter, way fatter, and try to cramp as much power as possible. Something has to give.
The fact that they're built in the U.S. also contribute to them as being as good as they could be.
But the big factor that make all other factors important/relavent is that current Honda owners don't do maintanance like those of earlier era. This can be said for other makes too. People think they are too cool to do their own maintanance. Most stop all car care practice the moment they buy a new car because they think they're (not the car) dealership material instead of shade tree or empty garage in the evening and weekend. People spend more time on the tube/web than they do taking care of their 2nd largest investment.
Agree with most... not sure about the US made part... And IMO the radiators that are being used are just downright poor, as are the Honda rubber parts. We ran into this with our integra, despite regular coolant changes, etc. Radiator plastic is prone to cracking in those cars, and things like rubber seals, windshield seal, etc. showed horrible UV resistance compared to our equally aged and used toyota previa which still looks like new. BTW, the radiators and hoses on my ~30 yo MB and my ~20yo BMW are all original.
OVERKILL
$100 Site Donor 2021
211,000 miles on the old Townie. Still runs like a million bucks!
Original:
-Rad
-Shortblock (block, rods, pistons, bearings....etc)
-Control arms
-Rear diff and gears
-T-Lok
-Tranny
-Converter
-Driveshaft
-AC Compressor
-Distributor
-Wiper Motor
-Power trunk motor
-Dash and gauges (digital dash w/computer)
-Seats
-Body panels (except one fender that was replaced due to a deer)
And anything else on the car I didn't upgrade.
Original:
-Rad
-Shortblock (block, rods, pistons, bearings....etc)
-Control arms
-Rear diff and gears
-T-Lok
-Tranny
-Converter
-Driveshaft
-AC Compressor
-Distributor
-Wiper Motor
-Power trunk motor
-Dash and gauges (digital dash w/computer)
-Seats
-Body panels (except one fender that was replaced due to a deer)
And anything else on the car I didn't upgrade.
I sold a 1989 Plymouth Horizon with 219k miles on it because the original clutch was starting to slip. Clutch replacement cost more than the car was worth. The 2.2 was known for leaky valve cover gaskets, so they were replaced a few times. All orignial components under the hood. Only maintenance items replaced, ie. belts, hoses, plugs, etc.
Sold it in 2000. so I don't have pictures of the odometer.
Sold it in 2000. so I don't have pictures of the odometer.
2000 silverado 150k no problems
Originally Posted By: JHZR2
Agree with most... not sure about the US made part... And IMO the radiators that are being used are just downright poor, as are the Honda rubber parts. We ran into this with our integra, despite regular coolant changes, etc. Radiator plastic is prone to cracking in those cars, and things like rubber seals, windshield seal, etc. showed horrible UV resistance compared to our equally aged and used toyota previa which still looks like new. BTW, the radiators and hoses on my ~30 yo MB and my ~20yo BMW are all original.
FWIW, both of my Hondas were Japanese built, EH9 Civic and Integra GS-R.
The Civic never had any radiator problems. If the original owner had a radiator problem she used a factory replacement. It did not have transmission cooler fittings. Virtually all aftermarket radiators will have those fittings. If you have a manual, you just don't use them. No hose problems either. 225,000 mile car. Saw it still driving a few months ago. (recognized because of Lausanne green pearl paint and Konig wheels)
My Integra? Top tank on the radiator started to leak. Got it resealed and the bottom began to leak within a week. Replaced with aftermarket. Some electrolysis problems with the hoses. Not nearly as bad as my 4.6 Mustang but some problems nonetheless.
Agree with most... not sure about the US made part... And IMO the radiators that are being used are just downright poor, as are the Honda rubber parts. We ran into this with our integra, despite regular coolant changes, etc. Radiator plastic is prone to cracking in those cars, and things like rubber seals, windshield seal, etc. showed horrible UV resistance compared to our equally aged and used toyota previa which still looks like new. BTW, the radiators and hoses on my ~30 yo MB and my ~20yo BMW are all original.
FWIW, both of my Hondas were Japanese built, EH9 Civic and Integra GS-R.
The Civic never had any radiator problems. If the original owner had a radiator problem she used a factory replacement. It did not have transmission cooler fittings. Virtually all aftermarket radiators will have those fittings. If you have a manual, you just don't use them. No hose problems either. 225,000 mile car. Saw it still driving a few months ago. (recognized because of Lausanne green pearl paint and Konig wheels)
My Integra? Top tank on the radiator started to leak. Got it resealed and the bottom began to leak within a week. Replaced with aftermarket. Some electrolysis problems with the hoses. Not nearly as bad as my 4.6 Mustang but some problems nonetheless.
1996 BMW 318ti
201,000 miles
• Cam sensor at 100,000 miles. Ran fine, but got the code for it. $100
• Thermostat at roughly 130,000 miles. $40
• Alternator at 170,000 miles. Rebuilt unit at $125
• Fuel pump relay at 190,000 miles. $20
I've done the valve cover gasket and oil filter housing gasket to fix minor leaks. I've done a bunch of other preventative cooling system parts at about 160,000. Two plastic cooling hose connectors, all hoses and the water pump
201,000 miles
• Cam sensor at 100,000 miles. Ran fine, but got the code for it. $100
• Thermostat at roughly 130,000 miles. $40
• Alternator at 170,000 miles. Rebuilt unit at $125
• Fuel pump relay at 190,000 miles. $20
I've done the valve cover gasket and oil filter housing gasket to fix minor leaks. I've done a bunch of other preventative cooling system parts at about 160,000. Two plastic cooling hose connectors, all hoses and the water pump
Last edited:
Advance Auto Parts in the background adds a certain level of irony to the high mileage pics lol
I sold my 1995 Civic EX that was 9 years old with 226,000 miles perfectly running and everything working. The valve cover was never opened except for a single timing belt change/water pump around 100,000 miles. No mechanical issues with engine or manual tranny. Just radiators & hoses x2, clutch cylinders, brake cylinder and that is all. Otherwise typical brakes and muffler.
Made in CANADA !
I changed the oil every 3-4k miles all dino and the latter half of life at Walmart Lube express for $15.00.
A great first car out of college except I messed up and purchased the two door which got old very fast.
Made in CANADA !
I changed the oil every 3-4k miles all dino and the latter half of life at Walmart Lube express for $15.00.
A great first car out of college except I messed up and purchased the two door which got old very fast.
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: eljefino
Wife's chevy corsica 3.1. 207k and pretty shot. Motor ran good but leaked oil everywhere. Front end was junk. 3 speed tranny held up great.
An old coworker had the same car. He thought due to conventional wisdom it would die at 200k miles. It did not so he kept driving not worrying about it. He got to 300k and said let see how much further. It made it to 400k and then severe rust with body/suspension sent it to scrap yard.It was not repair free but nothing major or internal engine or transmission work.
He bought a 1998 Honda Accord V6 which promptly puked its automatic transmission in the first 20,000 miles
!
Wife's chevy corsica 3.1. 207k and pretty shot. Motor ran good but leaked oil everywhere. Front end was junk. 3 speed tranny held up great.
An old coworker had the same car. He thought due to conventional wisdom it would die at 200k miles. It did not so he kept driving not worrying about it. He got to 300k and said let see how much further. It made it to 400k and then severe rust with body/suspension sent it to scrap yard.It was not repair free but nothing major or internal engine or transmission work.
He bought a 1998 Honda Accord V6 which promptly puked its automatic transmission in the first 20,000 miles
- Status
Similar threads
