Anyone wanna help break down sockets/ratchets to m

[chefwong]

Looks like we got a couple of tool junkies in the house. I myself am just a weekend warrior but always believed in buying the right tool for the job.....don't let me start with the power tool list ;-)

It all started with a brake job, that led into a strut/shock DIY, etc.

I have a decent mix but it's just stuff I bought based on what I needed and what I did not have on hand. Like the 32mm open ended wrench I never really use except to remove the fan

With that said, here's a bunch of questions for you tool veterans.

Chrome vs. Industrial Finish ?
Pro's & Cons ?
If I had to start from scratch, I would probably stick with the industrial finish IMO. It's not as slippery as chrome and won't scratch like chrome as well. Also, generally the sockets in industrial are for impact use and also thinner walled.


12 pt vs 6pt ?
Your guess is as good as mind....

Flex head or fixed ?
I have a decent mix - 1/2 flex, 3/8 fixed and flex.

1/4, 3/8 or 1/2?
The big stuff I have in 1/2. I started with 3/8 so the majority of my stuff is 3/8 . If I had to start over...I may do 1/4" and 1/"2 with a 1/4" to 3/8" adapter for the torque wrenches I own. I like the smaller profile for access.

Double-Single Wobble
I have not encountered a need for this type of socket yet....

Any preferred brands ? I use order through the local shop I use since the Snap on & Mac guy is there on a regular basis.
There is a industrial shop by work and the Proto stuff is slightly cheaper than the 2 other brands. Dunno if Proto and Mac are the same build quality though.

Enough for now. Looking forward to your input.

 

[Donald]

I see almost no need for 3/8", go with 1/4 and 1/2 and 3/4.

Your main sockets should be all 6 pt. With ratchets, the need to 12pt is very very minimal.

Chrome is the noram for hand sockets and industrial (black) for impacts. The industrial may rust easier. You will not run into thinwall unless you get some deep sockets.

I have broken one or two deep industrial sockets.

 

[oilboy123]

I like and use 3/8 a lot. I have 1/4, 3/8, 1/2 and some 3/4 stuff.
I prefer 6 pt and have mostly chrome. Except for some impact sockets. I have a lot of Craftsman, and some Snap On. I have an assortment of a few other brands as well.

I have used Proto but not Mac. They should both be pretty good.

 

[shoz123]

Get some ratcheting wrenches. Don't know how I got along without them before. Get fixed head before flex and regular size before shorties.

 

[shoz123]

And angle head are better than flat heads but can not be flipped over to use as a reverse angle....

 

[Merkava_4]

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Chrome vs. Industrial Finish ?

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I like them both. Chrome is easier to clean up. Industrial finish has a real professional look, but you've got to keep them oiled or they'll rust.

Speaking of rust, pliers seem to rust real easy; I don't mean heavily, but just a light surface corrosion from the damp air in the winter. They even rust just from laying in a tool box drawer. The rust comes off will easy though with 3M's purple Scotch-Brite.

Every fall time about the end of October, I'll take all the pliers and industrial finish tools and give them a bath in WD-40. I just lay them on a piece of cardboard and spray them down soaking wet. Then I'll wipe them off after a couple of hours.

MAC and PROTO sockets:

I have some of each and they seem to be exactly the same; their wrenches however, are totally different.

 

[Kestas]

Ditto on 6-pt sockets. Also, start your set with impact sockets for the 1/2-inch and 3/8-inch drive and build from there.

I also wanted to mention that few people know the art of keeping their screwdriver tips in good condition. Filing them square after they show some wear goes a long way in keeping them in good shape and easy to use.

 

[PF52]

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I see almost no need for 3/8", go with 1/4 and 1/2 and 3/4.

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I rarely use my 1/4" sockets; only when its a tiny socket such as a 7mm or those pesky 5.5mm that show up on many GM cars. Occasionally I'll use the 1/4" when clearance issues require it however, so it'll always be in my tool box if needed. Most hand work I do is with 3/8" or 1/2" sockets.

My impact stuff is all 1/2". If I had air, I'd invest in some 3/4" stuff too.

 

[punisher]

Chrome plated sockets tend to be thinner walled.

I am no fan of chrome sockets. With few exceptions all of the techs in my shop used their impact sockets for every job whether air tools were used or not. Chrome sockets tend to "bell" or crack when stressed, and I don't need that. The favorites by far were the medium depth 6pt impact sockets by Snap-on. I had one 12pt socket, 12mm for FoMoCo driveshafts, and that was it for my 12pt collection.

1/4 inch drive sockets, chrome is OK because they arent usually stressed too heavily, and their thin walls are handy when bolt heads have clearance problems.

1/2" drives, might just as well get all impact sockets. I have a deep impact set from 10mm to 36mm, it cost an arm and a leg, but I used the heck out of them. I have a couple of normal/shortie sockets for special cases.

Ratchets, whatever feels best. I liked Matco ratchets, some guys loved their Snap-ons, to each his own. I had one 3/8 swivel head ratchet that rarely got used. In 1/4" drive, a swivel head ratchet is handy for spinning out hex screws once you loosen them.

Wobbles- impact wobbles/swivels are the best. Tool quality, Snap-on and Mac are tops, they do make some tough hand tools.

 

[Merkava_4]

Chrome sockets for impact applications:

They are made with a harder steel than impacts, which is the reason why they crack when used with an impact gun.

Impact sockets are made with a softer steel so that they can withstand the impact without breaking. To make up for them being softer, they have to go thicker. Some impact sockets are softer than others; Snap-on makes a soft impact socket to where MATCO uses a little bit harder steel for theirs.

Another thing you guys may not know: using chrome sockets on your impact gun will eventually where out the square drive on your gun.

 

[Master ACiD]

there is 2 schools f thought when it comes to tools. you can buy the expensive brands like snap-on or the cheapie brands like harbirfreight.
for certain things like screwdrivers, swivels, extensions, allen head wrenches, vise grips, pliers and hacksaw blades i perfer the name brand tools. the cheap brands just dont last. we all have probably broken a cheap screwdriver at one time or another. its just frusterating.

on the other hand, things like impact gun, shallow and deep well sockets, open end wrenches, combo wrenches, pry bars, c-clamps, etc i perfer the cheap brands because they are increadibly low cost. low enough that i can replace them every 5 years for less than $50.
heres a set of wrenches i personally own, http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=32647

and have had for about 6 years. they are still going strong. havent bent one. the only problem is they are not coated with anything so they will rust if not kept oiled. but otherwise they have done a few engine rebuilds, a few engine swaps, countless maintence items, wheel bearings, brake jobs, transmission replacments and i even heated one up and bent it 90 degrees to get to a distributer on an old ford torino. at $20 a set i can afford to lose one to a custom application.

their sockets are similarly cheaply priced. you can grab a full set of wrenches and sockets from 1/4 3/8 and 1/2 complete with extensions and wratchets for like $75. how many hundreds would it cost to get a name brand tool set? alot more than $75. a heck of alot more.

but what you dont get with cheap tools is a lifetime warranty. this is OK for the shadetree average user ad we wont be wearing out sockets any time soon. a professional mechanic on the other hand would be wise to invest in a good set with a lifetime warranty.

personally ill stick to my cheap set.

 

[HM12460]

i like snap on tools the best. if you're willing to pay the premium price for them. i broke 1 socket of there's. on an impact wrench replacing a track segment on the john deere dozer at my place of employment.

 

[punisher]

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Chrome sockets for impact applications:

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I certainly hope that comment wasn't directed at me. I learned about 25 years ago what happens when you use chrome sockets on impacts. I still have a scar above my eye to remind me of the fact. I have broken/belled many a chrome socket with just my ratchet and superhuman strength.

As far as cheap vs expensive tools, my deciding factor is frequency of use. Tools that get used day in day out- I pay for the good stuff. Infrequent use tools- Craftsman or HF.

 

[XS650]

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Chrome sockets for impact applications:

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I certainly hope that comment was directed at me. I learned about 25 years ago what happens when you use chrome sockets on impacts. I still have a scar above my eye to remind me of the fact. I have broken/belled many a chrome socket with just my ratchet and superhuman strength.

As far as cheap vs expensive tools, my deciding factor is frequency of use. Tools that get used day in day out- I pay for the good stuff. Infrequent use tools- Craftsman or HF.

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I mostly agree. I have lot of occasional use tools I would have done without if I had to pay full brand name price.

MasterAcid's list of stuff to never buy cheap is a good one.

 

[Steve S]

I have Snap on tools from when I worked . But for home work I would buy a package of Craftsman tools . Good tools and a great price 6 point and 12 points have there places you can get both at Craftsman prices and still have $$$ left over.

 

[toocrazy2yoo]

I can see buying Snap-On or MAC for the professional mechanic in a garage working for a living, but for a weekend warrior? My SKs and non-descipt Craftsman stuff is sufficient. Benefit of Craftsman, you break one, they'll swap it out for you.

 

[Merkava_4]

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Chrome sockets for impact applications:

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I certainly hope that comment wasn't directed at me.

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Chrome sockets tend to "bell" or crack when stressed, and I don't need that.

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It was the last above quote that led me to suspect that you were using chrome sockets for impacts. How else would you explain the chrome sockets having a tendency to bell or become cracked as you describe it?

 

[cousincletus]

I spent the extra $$$ for a decent ratchet. I got a Snap-On with the fine teeth, longer handle and comfort plastic grip. Makes a difference when you're in a tight place and believe it or not, the longer handle combined w/finer ratchet teeth make most hard to reach jobs easier. Most of my tools are Craftsman and Blackhawk from Carquest Auto Parts. Also have a few NAPA wrenches.

 

[mazduh30]

My opinion, 1/4, 3/8, with 1/2" impact socket set. What will your main use be? Your a weekend warrior so I would assume you'll work on autos and/or light trucks. 1/4" won't be used much...but when need it, it will be a saver. Go with 6-pt. Micro ratchet is great (tight spots). Extensions, universal joints, I do have snap-on and sears. Any tool with a lifetime warranty is good (be surprise what company makes which tools). Snap-on is a pain to get a hold of sometimes...Sears you walk in and get the replacement with no hassles. Try to stay away from those "1001 part tool sets"...alot of those tools you won't use...again my opinion.

 

[oilboy123]

Yes those 1001 piece tool sets come with a lot of 12 pt sockets.